| Author | Message | ||
| Richard Ham (Hampappy)
New member Username: Hampappy Post Number: 11 Registered: 2-2003 |
Steve Magnusson posted this the other day which I thought was useful. http://www.rwmillerandsons.com/Riley/Plugs/visualpluggauge.htm good luck with the front bank ! RH | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1147 Registered: 4-2002 |
There are several different kinds of anti-sieze. Some have a petroleum carrier for thicker 'gunk' (possibly powdered lead). I've seen this stuff leave an oily deposit. I SERIOUSLY doubt you've got engine oil on these threads, as it would show more on the electodes. | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 312 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks to all for all of their help so far. Special thanks to Dave for hanging in there with me tonight and giving me the motivation to mess with the air pump. I eventually did move the air pump out of the way to get to the 4th plug. Tonight, I've done only the rear bank. All four plugs look like the first two that I've taken pictures of--light brown color, no carbon deposits, good electrode/projectile shape, just a little bit of oil 1/3 the way down the threaded shaft of the plug. I got them all back in, and the car fires up fine (though still a little rough). I'll tackle the front bank tomorrow night. I'd like to check the resistance of the plug wires, but I've figured out that to do that I have to remove the distributor cap. I see three hex-head flat-head screws, that I can't figure out the best way of getting to. I'm thinking short socket, 1/4" drive, maybe 6-8mm or so. Do I have to remove the cap to test the plug wires? What's the best way to do that? Also, my extenders are black (at least on the rear bank). They look just like conductive extenders. Why would I test them for resistance? I should expect to have no resistance, correct? The two that I tested (just the extenders) registered no resistance ("0F" on my voltmeter, the same as when I put the leads together when resitance is selected). Also, would it make sense to check the plug wires first on the front bank for anything obvious, then pull the plugs? Or just pull/check the plugs first and let that be my guide? For a cylinder that's not firing (say broken plug wire), what would you expect the spark plug look like? Thanks again all for your help. Thanks to Mitch, too, for his insight. Headed to bed with 7 out of 8, --Mike | ||
| Mitch Alsup (Mitch_alsup)
Member Username: Mitch_alsup Post Number: 550 Registered: 4-2002 |
I suspect that the first two pictures (bottom two) are of the same plug. The bottommost plug looks just lean of ideal, while the second picture up from the bottom looks just a touch rich. Projectile looks like its in good shape, the surface of the electrode is nice, smooth, and free of pits. THe dark brown on the base of the threads is normal. All, in all, this set of plugs looks fine. The top three pictures do not show up the color of teh insulator well enough to diagnose. Darkened bottom threads are typical even if the engine neither burns oil not leaks at the seal. Oil up the threads is inconclusive. Check the gaps for wear, and check the outside insulator for oil, flash over marks, and other debris. Clean with solvent if you intend to reuse plug. So far all I see is a good running engine. | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 311 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks dave... | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 654 Registered: 5-2001 |
Mike, You need to loosen the air pump and move it out of the way | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 310 Registered: 10-2002 |
Ack! I can't get the last rear-bank spark plug out, the air pump is in the way! I managed to get the plug remover tool in, but can't find a way to get enough torque on the damn thing to pull it out without hitting the air pump, distributor, air cleaner, etc. Arggg! | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 309 Registered: 10-2002 |
Agree very much that it could be anti-seize. It's such a controlled, intentional amount... | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Advanced Member Username: Peter Post Number: 2685 Registered: 12-2000 |
I use oil on my threads for anti-seizing purposes (I don't like using anti-seize on something like this as it builds up a sticky, gooey, mess. Oil just wipes off with a rag). This could be the reason why you're getting it (what it looks like to me). For a car with big carbs, those plugs look okay... | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 651 Registered: 5-2001 |
They look normal. I had the oil on the threads on my 78 308 too. I think it comes from a slightly leaky cam cover gasket...no big deal, unless it gets excessive... Pull the rest and lets see what they all look like. :-) | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 308 Registered: 10-2002 |
Actually, after some research I'm thinking these plugs look pretty good. They're definitely dry, and there are no carbon deposits to indicate I'm running rich. The electrode looks good. But, I *am* getting oil on the threads. I tracked the car a month ago, not autocross but a race track sort of thing--I recall burning a fair amount of oil with 6k rpm for 15-minute runs... | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 307 Registered: 10-2002 |
I'm suspiscious that I'm running on 7 cylinders (see separate thread). I pulled two of my spark plugs (first time I've ever done it), but I really don't know what I'm looking at. First of all, there is what appears to be engine oil on the threads. The electrode shapewise seems to be intact. It's a dull light brown color. The brown stuff seems to be a deposit of some sort on the electrode itself, it's rough to the touch. There are the two right most plugs from the rear bank. 1978 308 GTS, 55k miles. NGK BP5ES plugs with 1000 miles on them. What am I looking at here?      |