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'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Advanced Member
Username: Peter

Post Number: 3073
Registered: 12-2000
Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2003 - 5:57 pm:   

Good job Mitch!
Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member
Username: Yelcab1

Post Number: 668
Registered: 11-2001
Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2003 - 2:30 pm:   

OK,

$20 in pieces of precut metal, a 125 AMP borrowed from Fchat member James H., 4 hours of time James donated yesterday, a few hours of practice run, and a couple days of pre-cleaning and post cleaning, my undercarriage is back together. 4 pieces of metal were cut out and replaced. I could almost say I got the hang of it now.

We even took turn welding some of the pieces on our backs, and James only got one tiny little hot flake down his ear, once.

Upload
arthur chambers (Art355)
Intermediate Member
Username: Art355

Post Number: 2489
Registered: 6-2001
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 5:12 pm:   

Mitchell:

For light welding, go to Sears. Take a class in welding. I'd use a MIG machine for most of the welding. If it is welding on exotic materials, don't even consider it. I can weld a little, but when I'm over my head, I use: Ken Augustine, 415-472-4952, who is about the best welder I've ever seen, but terribly expensive.

Art
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Advanced Member
Username: Peter

Post Number: 3045
Registered: 12-2000
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 3:23 pm:   

Billy Bob, there are multiple reasons for Flux-core use in the construction industry. Examples:

-First off, its cheaper since you don't need a bottle of gas, which can run into the hundreds of dollars for the use of one.
-Second, FC (FCAW) is used for outdoor conditions because GMAW (gas-shielded MIG) is affected by breeze/wind.

I cannot recommend FCAW for use on cars, even though it maybe a stronger weld, but because of the problem you cited with appearance, plus, the car will more than likely be welded in an indoor area/workshop so gas use is permitted and that extra strength is redundant. Normal ER70S-3 or S-6 wire is sufficiant for steel fab or repair. Sure it requires gas (one can rent/buy 80 cu. ft. bottles for cheap), but to me, it looks better and is as strong.
Richard Ham (Hampappy)
New member
Username: Hampappy

Post Number: 28
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 11:24 am:   

Most important thing to have when you start welding for the first time ? An angle-grinder

How do I know that.

Anyway, go for it. Welding is great fun.
david a haney (David512bb)
New member
Username: David512bb

Post Number: 29
Registered: 1-2002
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 9:41 am:   

Billy Bob, I couldn't have said it better myself.
billy bob (Fatbillybob)
Member
Username: Fatbillybob

Post Number: 331
Registered: 8-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 10:21 pm:   

220v units only, MIG, good brand lincoln or miller, autodarkening helmet to match. Forget the gas just use fluxcore wire. FC is more forgiving and makes stronger (not prettier) welds. In fact they do not use shielding gas in building contrution only FC wire. start small and weld everything to get practice. Welding is 90% hand eye coordination and 10% knowing what to do. Even when you do critical welds it is easy to follow the specs of wire type size speed and voltage. Try to break what you make is the best way to learn. Its going to cost you a grand with all the junk you will eventually buy. If you are a picky guy who likes things just so...spring for the TIG now or you will just own two welders...a MIG and a TIG
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member
Username: Verell

Post Number: 1093
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 8:57 pm:   

re:"You won't weld 1/8 inch steel with a 110 volt home version, of ANY welder."

Sorry, I must challenge this. I've got a 120V HTP prototype that I bought in the late 80s. It's supposed to be a 90A unit, but it welds like a 150A machine.

On max power it welds 1/8" steel just fine. I've fabricated motor mounts out of 3/16" steel with excellent weld penetration.

You just V-notch the joint & fill it in with a small series of figure 8s: 88888888 across the v-notch. You have to go slow & carefully dial in the wire feed to be sure you're penetrating tho.

On low power, you can weld razor blade tips together, but boy does it take a light touch & you have to be in practice. It's great for 18-24 gage body metal & also exhaust work.

See:
www.USAweld.com

Can't match it to their current product line, but their MIG 140 or the MIG 160 DV sure look nice.

Just wish there was a way to put a TIG gun on it.
Bob Briley (Bob_briley)
New member
Username: Bob_briley

Post Number: 14
Registered: 5-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 2:15 pm:   

Mitchell,
I do alot of repair welding. I have TIG, MIG, gas and spot in my garage. I've welded on Jags, Ferrari's, Vettes, rice grinders, trucks, eyeglasses, fences, small production runs, you name it.

Not seeing your repair work, I would guess it should cost $50 to $100. There are a couple places by the 101 and 880 in SJ that do "no job too small" and do OK work.

Welding does take skill and practice. If you are set on getting a welder, get the small MIG 220v Lincoln with the gas setup, it's now called an SP175. It sells for about $750, plus a bottle or gas for $100. The 110v systems tend to trip the breaker at the worst times and are limited to thinner materials.

If you want to learn a skill, buy a used AC Lincoln "buzz box", for $100. It works better outdoors and on rusted parts than the MIG. Plus if you get really good, I think the welds are prettier, more like a TIG weld and welds you see on aluminum and race cars.
Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member
Username: Yelcab1

Post Number: 661
Registered: 11-2001
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 2:11 pm:   

james

You got email

M
James H. (Jamesh)
Junior Member
Username: Jamesh

Post Number: 215
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 2:00 pm:   

You can weld anything from 25 ga. to 5/16" mild steel with a SP125
James H. (Jamesh)
Junior Member
Username: Jamesh

Post Number: 214
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 1:38 pm:   

Mitchell,
Give me a call and I will lend you my welder. You may need to get the tank filled and buy the glove, and shield. I have the Lincoln SP125 just sitting in the garage. Its set up for the flux core wires now but I have the tank and gauge for the mig set up. If you are just going to weld the frame up, the flux core should be fine.
James
Dave Burch (Merlyn)
Junior Member
Username: Merlyn

Post Number: 126
Registered: 8-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 1:20 pm:   

Where in the Bay Area do you live? If in the south bay, go see Madco Welding on Old Middlefield in MT. View, they are very low pressure and great guys that will help out a beginer.
I have a Hobart 250 and love it, Its Tig, not Mig, so I do a lot of Tig brazing.
Bob Campen (Bob308gts)
Member
Username: Bob308gts

Post Number: 728
Registered: 9-2001
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 12:55 pm:   

With my SP100 .030 wire using C25 I have welded 7ga ( almost 3/16" ) very sucessfully. I had mentioned the 110v units for price and no new wiring needed
Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member
Username: Henryk

Post Number: 1135
Registered: 8-2001
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 12:54 pm:   

Ali is correct. Overhead welding is the most difficult.

I took welding classes at a local college......a non-credit adult evening course.
Ali Haas (Aehaas)
Junior Member
Username: Aehaas

Post Number: 84
Registered: 5-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 12:47 pm:   

Welding is hard enough. I am worried about welding on your back. As a physician and surgeon I can say that I would have you learn how to weld but even then have somebody else do this little bit for you. Welding over yourself is EXTREMELY hazardous.

Smart people learn from their mistakes, really smart people learn from someone else's mistakes.

aehaas
Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member
Username: Henryk

Post Number: 1133
Registered: 8-2001
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 12:25 pm:   

Mitchell: You won't weld 1/8 inch steel with a 110 volt home version, of ANY welder.

I recommend a 250 Miller unit......it is what I have. It is very versatile. You can also learn to weld aluminum, etc., with this unit. Also, it will be much easier to sell when it is time.......it is the most popular welder.
Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member
Username: Yelcab1

Post Number: 660
Registered: 11-2001
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 11:53 am:   

I have a rusted frame at the radiator support. It is made of 1/8" thick steel, not galvanized (that is why it rusted) and not sheet metal. It is not a terribly important place because it does not really support too much of a load. And it is all covered up in the end so nobody has to know how ugly the welding was.

It is a good place to learn how to weld except that I would have to weld on my back.

I could put it all back together, drive it to a welder shop, take it apart and have them charge me $500 to weld it. Or, I could just buy the welder, learn how to do it, and just do it. I do this stuff on the cars I own because I like it. I am not a mechanic but I do fix cars.

When I learn how futile it is, I'll sell the welder and retire my welding career. Until then, how do I get started/
JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member
Username: Jrvall

Post Number: 2285
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 10:55 am:   

>>Then you will have convinced yourself of the futility of it all and take it to a pro. <<

Ha Ha Ha !!! YEP !!

{:-)}
Ali Haas (Aehaas)
Junior Member
Username: Aehaas

Post Number: 83
Registered: 5-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 10:51 am:   

I have the Miller 110 volt version and a Lincoln stick. Welding is very hard. I had an old man teach me on scrap metal over a 6 month period and I am pretty good but doing cosmetic work is harder than welding a few big junks together, way harder.

When you read the book it assumes large work. Fine, thin metals are much harder to work with. There is burn through, inclusions and other, numerous factors to worry about.

But go for it. Get together with somebody who wants to help you. It is rewarding in the end. I now love metal work.

aehaas
Mark Eberhardt (Me_k)
Member
Username: Me_k

Post Number: 660
Registered: 5-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 10:36 am:   

For sheet metal and light stuff up to about 3/16, I like to keep .023" wire in the mig and stay away from flux core (it's OK for heavier, say 16 ga and up). I have a lincoln and it's been a good machine, I bought the 220 unit since it will also do heaver stuff when the need comes but the 110 untis do most thing, particularly with the .023 wire and mulitple pass, I've had trouble getting the heavier .035 wire to burn in consistently with a 110 machine Good luck.
Malcolm West (Ferrari_uk_tech)
Junior Member
Username: Ferrari_uk_tech

Post Number: 73
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 10:35 am:   

Just a thought, could you not take a short beginners course in welding - Even doing "cosmetic" welding can be very dangerous, and with a little knowledge it will help to give you a better job.

MW
Mike Florio (Mike_in_nevada)
New member
Username: Mike_in_nevada

Post Number: 30
Registered: 6-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 10:35 am:   

A while back the input pipe on the muffler on my 633 csi rusted through. BMW wanted $600 for a new muffler. A nice 110v Miller MIG welder with gas setup was $500. Welded up the old muffler and it lasted 7 years (when I sold the car). Is still have the welder.

Get a name brand wire feed, with shielding gas. There is a good welding store near the San Jose Airport. Visit them.

Look into a welding class at one of the local Junior Colleges. I think CSM has one.

If you are going to weld on the body (sheetmetal) it is very difficult for a beginner. Go to a sheet metal shop and get some scrap 22-24 gauge sheet metal. Make sure it is not galvanized. The zinc coating vaporizes and will make you sick. Practice, practice, practice.

The you will have convinced yourself of the futility of it all and take it to a pro.
Rob Schermerhorn (Rexrcr)
Member
Username: Rexrcr

Post Number: 778
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 10:31 am:   

Take a class at your community college, or find a friend to teach you.

Also, buy Welder's Handbook by Finch and Monroe, 1985, HPBooks, ISBN 0895862573
Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member
Username: Yelcab1

Post Number: 659
Registered: 11-2001
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 9:53 am:   

Nah

Nothing safety related. Just doing some rust repair, mostly cosmetic stuff. And, I always wanted to learn how to weld. Now is as good a time as any to begin.
JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member
Username: Jrvall

Post Number: 2284
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 8:42 am:   

HooooBoy...

if you plan on welding ANYTHING Safety related...DON"T, hire it out to a real welder!!!!

No Kidding!!!

real welding, the kind that works & lasts is truly something that takes tons of study & practice.

not to mention it can up your eyes real easy and can give one hell of a sunburn!!
Bob Campen (Bob308gts)
Member
Username: Bob308gts

Post Number: 727
Registered: 9-2001
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 8:40 am:   

Try to stay with the name brands Lincoln, Miller, both have small 110v home units. I have a Lincoln SP100 and have great service out of it, current model for the same unit is a SP125. Look in the yellow pages under welding supply for the nearest dealer. Do invest in a auto darken shield. Total cost with a tank of C25 gas should be under $800.
Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member
Username: Yelcab1

Post Number: 658
Registered: 11-2001
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 8:11 am:   

I am not a welder, and do not want to be an expert welder. I only want to do light work on automobile. What is a good MIG welder and accessories to get, where to get them, and how much to pay?

I live in the Bay area so I will want to find something local and pick it up, not have to pay big for shipping charges.

Thanks

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