| Author |
Message |
Russ F (Russf)
Junior Member
Username: Russf
Post Number: 172
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Monday, September 01, 2003 - 2:04 pm: | |
Thanks guys. All these posts have been helpfull. I believe that the problem is the hose that I bought from NAPA is rubberized on the inside but has a tough canvas type exterior with threads of something running through it. The hose that I took off was all rubber and hence more pliable. This would enable it to more readily move over the hump on the metal pipe. I am returning to NAPA tomorrow to see if they have a different hose. |
Tom Bakowsky (Tbakowsky)
Member
Username: Tbakowsky
Post Number: 555
Registered: 9-2002
| | Posted on Monday, September 01, 2003 - 1:08 pm: | |
Why not just undo the fan switch on the rad and let it drain out through the hole? I beleive this is how you are supposed to do it. As for completely being able to drain the coolant pipes...good luck. The only way would be to shoot presurized water through the system thus flushing and cleaning at the same time. I think this is much better than just draining and filling. |
jeff ryerson (Atheyg)
Member
Username: Atheyg
Post Number: 419
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Monday, September 01, 2003 - 11:31 am: | |
Don't know if you've got it on yet but you may try soaking the end of hose thats giving you the problem in hot soapy water. it should expand a bit and the soap should help lube it |
DGS (Dgs)
Member
Username: Dgs
Post Number: 287
Registered: 5-2003
| | Posted on Monday, September 01, 2003 - 9:21 am: | |
I've noticed that most of the hoses on my 328 are extremely tight fits, and often require running a screwdriver or other shim around to help stretch the hose over the intended fitting.
Do the hard one first -- which may mean taking the hose off the radiator until you get the end on the metal pipe. (Not really familiar with that particular connection -- just general advice, here).
If you can't fit a screwdriver into the space, you might try bending up a piece of stainless stock shim (available in one inch strips in the back of most Ace Hardware stores) to make a half inch shim to help ease the hose onto the pipe/radiator.
Good luck. |
Russ F (Russf)
Junior Member
Username: Russf
Post Number: 171
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2003 - 4:22 pm: | |
I am now in a HELLUVA FIX. I accessed the radiator hose that connects to the metal pipe from above but after loosening the clamps could not get it off. Having read somehwhere that the hose should be replaced anyway I cut it off and bought new hose at NAPA. Now however I find it nearly impossible to get the new hose on because of the confined space. I have tried the obvious things such as lightly greasing the inside of the hose. I have managed to get it on the radiator side but cannot get it on the metal pipe side.
Why couldn't Ferarri have done what every other car maker does and put a simple drain plug on the radiator.
Any suggestions appreciated. |
DGS (Dgs)
Member
Username: Dgs
Post Number: 285
Registered: 5-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2003 - 1:24 pm: | |
And don't forget to turn the heater (both sides) temperatures on full to make sure you get the heater cores too. (One of the most common mistakes in auto service.) If you wind up with about a half gallon of air in the system, guess what got forgot. |
Mark Foley (Sparky)
Junior Member
Username: Sparky
Post Number: 71
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2003 - 11:40 am: | |
Russ:
I like your idea of just removing the lower radiator hose to drain the radiator, however I'm not sure this procedure will drain all the coolant out of the metal coolant pipe?
Before is did my coolant change, I read somewhere that the best way to drain the radiator on a 328 was to remove the 5/8" heater return hose where is attached to the metal coolant pipe (See parts manual table 22). This was easy to access by removing a panel that is attached with about (8) 10 mm hex-head screws from the underside of approximately the spare tire area (See parts manual table 104, Ref 9, P/N 60208600).
Another tip for this procedure is to make a couple of coolant bleed lines. Although I made some from regular 8mm studs, it appears that (2)brake bleeder screws could be purchased from an auto parts store that would allow attachment of a bleed hose to the bleeder vents on the thermostat housing and the radiator. (although you could probably get by with one, my recommendation is to get two and at least 5' of the corresponding clear vinyl hose) Without employment of some type of bleeder screw/hose, the bled-off coolant will be all over the engine including the timing belts.
An additional benefit is that this bleeder hose set-up will allow you to do more enhanced bleed procedure because you can bleed a gallon or so of coolant out while the car is running and just pour it back into the radiator.
If you do write up a procedure it is okay by me to use these suggestions.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Mark |
Russ F (Russf)
Junior Member
Username: Russf
Post Number: 170
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2003 - 10:41 am: | |
Upon further analysis it appears that I do not have to remove the panel becausethe large hose that connects to the bottom of the radiator can be removed by accessing it from above with the trunk open. This is contrary to the 308 procedures which have been published elsewhere.
By the way I plan to write up this rpocedure when I am finished. |
Russ F (Russf)
Junior Member
Username: Russf
Post Number: 169
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2003 - 10:23 am: | |
Getting ready to do this but need a quick piece of advice. Which panel under the radiator do you remove to get at the radiator hoses? The one under the passenger or driver side. The latter is larger and appears to be the one. Is that right? |