| Author |
Message |
Steve (Steve)
Member
Username: Steve
Post Number: 460
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, September 06, 2003 - 8:40 pm: | |
Joe good reading. I just came in today and found that both fans didn't turn on when I hit 180+ so I'm going through the diagn. now. My fuse blocks were replaced 6 years ago during a partial restore. No oxidation , with everything shiny and tight. Passenger side fan turns on with AC but both fans and the driver side fan do not turn on. All 3 relays are working and when I jumper out the raditor switch it does not turn on the fans. All fuses are good . I also hot wired each fan and the both work great. So I'm stuck here and need to sort things out. Now this worked fine yesterday So I don't know my next move.I've got the schematic but they were eating spaghetti when they drew it up so I need help from someone who walked through the circuit. The way I read it is the rad. temp. switch triggers the 2 relays (L/R fan motors)which are fed by 2 fuses.There is a 3rd relay that turn on only 1 fan when you turn on the AC. So it would appear that I have an open in the rad. temp. switch wires? Any suggestions would help. 77 308GTB |
Oldslow308 (Djparks)
Member
Username: Djparks
Post Number: 607
Registered: 2-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, September 06, 2003 - 10:08 am: | |
Gee, It sounds as if that coin cleanser does the same thing that Stabilant 22 does......and for 3.49 instead of 48.95 a bottle! It would be VERY interesting to have both analyzed.
DJ |
Andy Falsetta (Tuttebenne)
Junior Member
Username: Tuttebenne
Post Number: 239
Registered: 3-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, September 04, 2003 - 7:27 pm: | |
The real problem is more likely loose rivets. I agree with Frank Parker. Solder them. |
Joe Ruotolo (Gtb24733)
New member
Username: Gtb24733
Post Number: 5
Registered: 7-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, September 04, 2003 - 9:59 am: | |
"CoinCleanser" is what I use. It is available at any coin/stamp place for $3.49 a bottle. It is intended for any oxidant/verdiggris that occurs as a result of copper/brass composition and/or dis-similar metallic interaction oxidation.
Again, it should be available anywhere coins/stamps are sold or traded, and if that particular brand is not available, there are literally hundreds of other equivalant products.
Sorry for not clarifying, in my original post, what I used to clean my terminal boards.
Joe |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 1099
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2003 - 6:39 pm: | |
OK,
Just keep us in suspense:
What is "the cleaning solution that numismatists use to clean old coins."?
Where can you get it & how much for it.
Another old EE... |
Stephen E. Schroeder (Seschroeder)
Junior Member
Username: Seschroeder
Post Number: 84
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2003 - 7:06 am: | |
I've had good luck installing the Hayden fan controller. For those with fan problems it is another way to go. |
Frank Parker (Parkerfe)
Advanced Member
Username: Parkerfe
Post Number: 2882
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2003 - 6:56 am: | |
Also, if you will solder the rivets to the board you assure a good connection and prevent the problem from happening again in the future. |
dave handa (Davehanda)
Intermediate Member
Username: Davehanda
Post Number: 1771
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Monday, September 01, 2003 - 3:10 pm: | |
Joe,
Thanks for sharing; that's what this List is all about! Unfortunately, your experience is not uncommon. Many older Ferraris have "sub par" repairs made by "hacks" and 308's in particular, being the "affordable" Ferrari to purchase, but not necessarily to own; has made it the "abused child" of both neglect and shoddy repairs. It is a shame and unwarranted. This List goes to great lengths in helping owners make sure their cars get the best and most appropriate care. |
Joe Ruotolo (Gtb24733)
New member
Username: Gtb24733
Post Number: 4
Registered: 7-2003
| | Posted on Monday, September 01, 2003 - 1:44 pm: | |
I would like to remind everyone who has a 308 (or equivalant) that there is some serious truth to the thread that was posted quite some time ago regarding the "state-of-conductivity" of the two fuse boards regarding oxidation that can occur between the rivets and the spade lugs on the actual boards. My cooling fans didn't go on for three years and, simultaneously, a single red (12 AWG) wire ran from the fuse block (which provides power to the fuses) to the fans themselves. It turns out that, before I purchased the car, no one recognized that oxidation was forming between the rivets on the fuse blocks and their associated spade lugs. So, when the cooling fans no longer came on at about 195 deg., the first thing for the fools to do was to cut the power/ground wires at the location of the fans and run a single power wire to both fans. Then they used the wire from the thermostatic sensor to provide the 12V directly to both fans so that every time the sensor switch closed, the fans would go on without the use of the associated relays. They had NO idea that the thermostatic sensor switch wires aren't even 1/2 the guage-size required to carry the appropriate current to the fans. This meant that all the relays and associated fusing was cut completely out, leaving the electrical system as tremendous risk of a fire. You believe that? Do you believe that someone who owned a Ferrari would allow such brainlessness under the hood? I un-screwed the situation by putting everything back as it had been originally, and replacing the relays and thermostatic sensor, and by cleaning the oxidation on the fuse blocks by scrubbing them with the cleaning solution that numismatists use to clean old coins. The oxidation came right off and I had perfect continuity across the fuse blocks once again.
I just wanted to share that with everyone in case someone had the same "my cooling fans won't come on" problem. Very simple to fix. Feel free to email me at "[email protected]" if you have any questions about this. I'll be happy to offer whatever help I can. In addition, I've also successfully adjusted the headlights on my car, cleaned and maintained the brake caliper assemblies, replaced the thermostatic sensor in the radiator, and tuned my carburretors. Let me know if I can provide any advice on anything you're trying to do. I'm an electrical engineer (not a Ferrari trained mechanic), so take what I say with a grain of salt.
Best regards to everyone.
Joe |