| Author | Message | ||
| Terry L (Terrykarr)
Junior Member Username: Terrykarr Post Number: 191 Registered: 12-2002 |
Thanks guys, appreciate the help. The verdict is still out on what my problem is, haven't had a chance yet to check it out. If I do end up having to pull the engine I will make sure to take pictures and provide anything else that may be helpful for future reference. I do have somewhat of an advantage for working on cars. Being that I have been at it for some time I have a lift and overhead hoist that comes in very handy, it will also allow me to get some good shots of the project. Thanks again and I will keep in touch. | ||
| James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member Username: Jselevan Post Number: 739 Registered: 6-2002 |
Terry - It is pretty easy to do. The first time out it will take you 8 hours. The second time, 4 hours. You will need: Cherry picker and pivot/tilt bracket to hang from cherry picker chain. To remove the engine after all is disconnected, you will tilt the clutch housing end down as you lift. Once the clutch housing clears, you will level the engine and continue to lift. To install, simply do the opposite - clutch house low, lower the engine, level once clear. Remove the half-shafts at the engine (inboard) side of each, and hang the half-shafts with wire hanger to prevent them from dropping too much. You will be able to roll the car if you bend the wire hanger carefully and support the half-shafts appropriately. Removing the nuts and bolts of the half-shaft can be trying, as you will need a 12 mm (I believe) allen head wrench and a lot of muscle. Keep track of the 6 bolts, nuts, and the circumferential washers (3 per side). Of course, the obvious. Disconnect battery, remove all connectors to the engine, throttle linkage, clutch linkage, hoses, etc. I leave the car in SECOND gear, and be careful not to inadvertently "fondle" the shifter shaft once the engine is on the floor. If you do somehow move the transmission out of second gear, you can find it again, it just takes time. Drain fluids. I suggest that prior to starting you find a car wash or steam cleaner to really clean the engine and bay. It will make life much more pleasant. The clutch helper spring can be pushed down with force to allow for removal of the clutch cable. You really have to be out of control to hit the rear window. That said, Randle's comments are well received. Remove the trunk lid and the engine lid. Remove the cross brace between the engine and trunk. Remove the firewall between the engine and trunk. You do not have to remove rivets. The entire fire wall will lift out. The coolant expansion tank will come out with the cross brace. Don't forget the alternator wires (TWO). I remove the oil filler tubes (TWO - one for each cam bank) and the distributor prior to removal. This gives you much greater clearance. The same is said for the oil/water heat exchanger. Easy to remove while in the car, makes engine removal much easier. Removal of rear exhaust header is easy with trunk firewall removed. Forward exhaust header is more difficult to remove with engine in car, but makes engine removal easier. Of course, muffler must be removed. Is the car airconditioned? If so, remove compressor from bracket and remove right fuel tank. Lay compressor in recess where tank sits, and leave there without evacuating the freon. It will be out of the way once the fuel tank is removed. THe fuel tank will come out without difficulty once the heat exchanger is removed. The alternator may have to come out to remove the tank (before removing engine). It is easy to remove the alternator if you are under the car and removing the forward exhaust header. This can all be done with the car on jack stands (as high as you are comfortable). Make sure that your cherry picker has sufficient lift height to clear the engine should you have the car on jack stands. A lift is preferable, of course, but not mandatory. While out you will want to detail the engine bay and engine. By the way, as someone has mentioned, it may be something on the flywheel/vibration dampener side that can be fixed without engine removal. I would remove the wheel and guard to inspect everything first. Should you decide to dismantle the engine, then there are obvious steps that we can discuss at that point. I do encourage starting the engine on the garage floor prior to reinstallation, should you dismantle. It is easy to do, and allows you to inspect for fluid leaks. In addition, if the heads have been removed, you can cycle the engine through 10 hot and cold start-ups and then readjust shim clearance and re-torque the heads while the engine is on the floor. Much easier to do. I have done this on all of my engines, and all that is required is a radiator (either from the car or from a radiator shop that had a throw away), some generic coolant hoses, a 12 volt battery, a house fan, and the muffler is all that it takes. Quite fun, and gives one confidence that all is correct when reinstalling. I run the engine for approximately 1 hour (with after market tachometer and oil pressure/temperature gauges). I do this each night for 7 to 10 nights, and this accomplishes the hot/cold expansion of the head and gaskets. I use a piece of carpet - sit the engine on the carpet and fire it up. The engine does not creep - it sits there rock steady. More to come if you wish. Jim S. | ||
| Randle Roberts (Racerboy9)
New member Username: Racerboy9 Post Number: 20 Registered: 2-2003 |
Terry, Make sure you protect the rear window as the swinging motor/transaxle can bump it if your not careful. I think it is best to put in reverse before you disconnect the shift linkage as that puts the shaft sticking out of the transaxle in the most retracted mode (verify this! it's been a while since I've pulled one}. Take out the trunk partition/heat shield and its not too bad a job--Just a tight fit so have a friend or two help you guide the engine/transaxle out and back in. | ||
| Terry L (Terrykarr)
Junior Member Username: Terrykarr Post Number: 190 Registered: 12-2002 |
Thanks guys, sorry for the late response, been out of town. James, I've been messing around with cars for most of my life [I'm 47], all of them American, my last project a 65 Corvette. I've pulled and rebuilt several engines but I have never worked on a Ferrari. My question is how long do you think it would take, myself and a helper, to pull the engine/trans? Paul, it ran with the clank. Me and Karl Troy [owner of European Road and Racing and a well respected mechanic in our area] or looking into the problem, and as soon as I know I will past it on. Thanks for your suggestions, we will probably start in that area. Thanks again guys, this forum is great! | ||
| Paul (Pcelenta)
Member Username: Pcelenta Post Number: 401 Registered: 7-2002 |
Terry, it ran with the clanking or just cranked?...the 246 engines do need periodic checking of the chain tension...it could just need to be tightened and of course a check of cam timing. | ||
| James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member Username: Jselevan Post Number: 737 Registered: 6-2002 |
About eight 246 engine removals. What would you like to know? Jim S. | ||
| Terry L (Terrykarr)
Junior Member Username: Terrykarr Post Number: 189 Registered: 12-2002 |
Anyone here ever pulled the engine out of a Dino 246? | ||
| Jerry Fisher (Emtrey)
New member Username: Emtrey Post Number: 23 Registered: 8-2003 |
I just had a similar "sound" with my 77 308. Loud thud -- engine ran though shaky. Turned out the crankshaft damper broke loose and was banging around on the eNd of the crank. Tech said he had never seen this in 38 yrs of working on F cars. Luckily did no other damage though it was dangerously close to one of the belts. Look for metal shavings at end of crank.. if they are there the "key" make have given way like mine...Just a shot in the dark..good luck... It was scary as hell hearing that noise coming from behind my head and close to my WALLET.... | ||
| Terry L (Terrykarr)
Junior Member Username: Terrykarr Post Number: 188 Registered: 12-2002 |
Well, I knew it could happen just hoped it wouldn't be this soon. Cranked the car and just as it fired I heard something turn loose. It cranked but ran with a clank clank.  Anyway, my question, I was talking with someone at the Amelia Island show this past year and he was telling me about a mechanic in Jacksonville, FL who is suppose to be the guru for the 246. Does anyone here know who he may have been talking about? |