| Author | Message | ||
| Alan Ing (Alan)
New member Username: Alan Post Number: 21 Registered: 2-2002 |
You actually can buy a Fluke Clamp on meter that measures DC amps using the clamp on feature (It also has test leads for conventional measurements). We use one all the time in our FIRST Robotics machine shop to optimize DC motor drive trains to keep from blowing circuit breakers. Our machines can draw over 150 Amps at 12VDC so the clamp on feature is very convenient. Works great but is somewhere in the neighborhood of $280 - $300 or so. I've used it to test charging and starter circuits of my car. I forgot which model number, but I can look it up if anyone is interested. Just send me a note. | ||
| James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member Username: Jselevan Post Number: 747 Registered: 6-2002 |
Bart - long distance testing is difficult. Does your wife or child earn union wages? Flowers and a new game-boy game help entice otherwise reticent family members. There is no way around having an extra set of eyes or hands for some of these chores. One trick is to purchase a 12 volt buzzer from Radio Shack. Attach alligator leads to the buzzer and connect one end to the lead in question (below deck) and the other to ground. When you flick the switch you should hear a buzz. This is no different than watching a meter swing. Jim S. | ||
| dave handa (Davehanda)
Intermediate Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 1817 Registered: 5-2001 |
Bruce, it is whatever came with it...I have yet to change it... :-) You know me, even though I once worked for Duracell, I buy on price now! Eveready, Duracell, Varta, as long as it is a "name" brand or private label, of a name brand.... I have been buying a lot of the Ikea batteries lately (real cheap), they are presumably made by Varta, since they come from Germany. Seem to last decently. | ||
| Bruce Wellington (Bws88tr)
Advanced Member Username: Bws88tr Post Number: 2848 Registered: 4-2002 |
HEY DAVE WHAT BRAND OF BATTERIES DO YOU PUT IN IT???  BRUCE | ||
| dave handa (Davehanda)
Intermediate Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 1812 Registered: 5-2001 |
I use a Fluke 26, true RMS, not cheap, but a workhorse...they make automotive specific ones too. The item I use the most though, is a cheapo 99 cent circuit tester; the one with a long lead wire with clip (attached to ground) and the pointy awl tip with light bulb inside... | ||
| Lawrence Coppari (Lawrence)
Member Username: Lawrence Post Number: 770 Registered: 4-2002 |
Fluke makes excellent meters. | ||
| Drew Altemara (Drewa)
Junior Member Username: Drewa Post Number: 186 Registered: 2-2002 |
If you're goning to spend the money I would get one that can measure tach, dwell and one that has a diode function. A lot of them have memory but I don't know of any that make an appreciable amount of noise to check continuity. Something like this may work, give you the accuracy you want and is not that expensive. The inductive pickup is used for the tach and dwell functions. http://www.eastwoodco.com/Department.asp?SKW=TEL1&Dep_Key1=Eldi&Cat=Diagnostic | ||
| Bart McMurry (Mcmurb)
New member Username: Mcmurb Post Number: 40 Registered: 9-2002 |
thanks for input. Jim, i have a 60' Azimut boat as well as the cars. there are times when a bilge pump needs to be checked two decks below the helm station. do you know of a unit that has memory or a buzzer that i could hear when testing at the fuse panel (near the helm station)? it's not always easy to get a wife/son/friend to sit in car/boat and flick switches for me while i monitor results. longer leads would help for the cars, but boat is too big. any suggestions? thanks again bart | ||
| Mike Florio (Mike_in_nevada)
New member Username: Mike_in_nevada Post Number: 36 Registered: 6-2003 |
I agree with Jim S. My Fluke is on the workbench in the garage. The el cheapo is in the tool bag for unexpected emergencies. | ||
| James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member Username: Jselevan Post Number: 746 Registered: 6-2002 |
You can spend a great deal of money purchasing a voltmeter to aid in automotive diagnostics, or you can send the money to me and I will help you. My preference is the latter. Don't waste money on a good voltmeter for automotive purposes. The cheapest Radio Shack voltmeter is all that you need. Accuracy is not critical (are there 12 volts, or nothing?). A test light will accomplish the same thing. You want a multimeter with 0-15 volt range, various Ohms ranges, current in the milliamps and amps (although this is rarely used). Do not purchase a clamp-on type meter. These work through measurement of the magnetic field surrounding a wire when current flows - but works only for AC current. Not likely to be helpful for automotive purposes, and the range of current is typically higher than you will experience in a car. Get some longer test leads, and most important, get some Radio Shack alligator leads to attached the ground to a spot when testing various fuses, relays, etc. Hope this helps. Jim S. | ||
| Bruce Wellington (Bws88tr)
Advanced Member Username: Bws88tr Post Number: 2828 Registered: 4-2002 |
WWW.FLUKE.COM BRUCE......... | ||
| Bart McMurry (Mcmurb)
New member Username: Mcmurb Post Number: 39 Registered: 9-2002 |
i need to get a good volt meter/multi testor for both my cars and a boat. what have people found to be the best for diagnostics? do the clamp types simply attach to a wire and read the current through the insulation? is there a method that will allow me to hook up to a fuse panel and then sit in car and activate a switch to check the flow without me holding the device? my wife is getting tired of pushing buttons while i am buried at the fuse panel of TR with my current POS multimeter. I guess some sort of memory would be usefull so that i could hook up to engine and sit in cockpit/helmstation and flick the switch and then go get reading. Any suggestions? As always, I thank everyone in advance for their time and input and suggestions. |