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JohnR. (Rivee)
Member
Username: Rivee

Post Number: 276
Registered: 1-2002
Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2003 - 10:32 am:   

. Verell, Now you tell me!!

Actually I figured that out after the first bout with it.
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member
Username: Verell

Post Number: 1135
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2003 - 7:11 pm:   

JohnR,Harry,
You don't need to pull the dipstick tube.

Just remove the 3 nuts attaching the pivot bracket to the front of the engine. This will let the alternator swing sidewise & you can get the pivot bolt out.
JohnR. (Rivee)
Member
Username: Rivee

Post Number: 275
Registered: 1-2002
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2003 - 4:41 pm:   

Harry, I think a Tibetan Monk, the Dolly Lama, or even the Pope, might of gone for the Jack Daniels bottle that day.
Harry (Harry)
New member
Username: Harry

Post Number: 42
Registered: 3-2002
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2003 - 3:47 am:   

I had to remove the dipstick tube as well. I could use a bicycle wrench tool to open the 30 mm nut. This is a real pain. But things like that teach you to reach the calmness of a tibetan monk. To improve in meditation seems to be one of the blessings of owning a Ferrari...
JohnR. (Rivee)
Member
Username: Rivee

Post Number: 274
Registered: 1-2002
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2003 - 12:30 am:   

My first time removing the alt. on my 308 was a memorable experience.

First off the main pivot bolt was rusted solid, I mean damn near welded, to the alt bracket.

After oxy-ace heating, pb-blasting, swearing, pounding, bleeding, farting, and ready to call the happy ward at the hospital to come pick me up, it finally broke loose. Little did I know that the bolt wouldn't come all the way out anyway because the dipstick housing tube was smack in the way, and trying to get a 30mm (I think) wrench up there was laughable.

In the end I had it rewound and re-bearing-ed only to have the regulator go out 4 months later and have to do it all over again.

Shamile, sure hope yours goes as smoothly as mine
Shamile Shams Kassam II (Shamile)
New member
Username: Shamile

Post Number: 18
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2003 - 8:57 pm:   

Wow,such great advice. Thanks to all...especially Verrel.
I have had the rear wheel and wheel well off for detailing work. I just can't believe you have to remove coolant for an alternator swap-out. Well at least no fuel tank drop. :-)
Scott Anderson (Srandrsn)
Junior Member
Username: Srandrsn

Post Number: 195
Registered: 4-2001
Posted on Thursday, September 18, 2003 - 5:54 pm:   

Take careful note of how the altr and the brakets were on the car before you take it out. Meaning where the washers were. ie: between the braket and altr, or between the bracket and the timing cover. What I'm getting at is if you put it back together and the altr is out of line (misaligned) with the water pump and crank you'll burn up belts... been there
jeff ryerson (Atheyg)
Member
Username: Atheyg

Post Number: 464
Registered: 8-2002
Posted on Thursday, September 18, 2003 - 1:06 pm:   

No such thing as a 5 minuter job on a Ferrari, 5 minuters turn into 5 hour jobs.

I couldn't believe it all the crap I had to remove,compressor bracketts, mounts, pulleys,wp
belt, alternator belt while fighting with lock nuts 1 flat at a time in various
uncomfortable, painfull, impossible to reach positions, all while being carefull not to scratch paint just to change my A/C belt on my 328 which took a few days a hour or 2 at a time.
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Member
Username: Pma1010

Post Number: 439
Registered: 7-2002
Posted on Thursday, September 18, 2003 - 12:49 pm:   

Whenever I read Allen Bishop or similar, they always look clean and not in the slightest bit peturbed by the jobs they are tackling. As someone with two messy jobs to do (shift shaft seals and pass fuel tank sealing) at the end of this season, it's comforting to know I am not the only one exercising my vocabulary when I get "stuck" in the middle of a b****er of a job.

Nice write up Verell
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member
Username: Verell

Post Number: 1115
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Thursday, September 18, 2003 - 12:08 pm:   

Alternator is removable after removing passenger side wheel & wheel well liner, then a few other things:

Next (sigh) drain coolant down enough ( About 3-4 gallons) so that you can undo the top end of the large coolant pipe that crosses diagonally in front of the alternator. Also loosten the a clamp on the bottom of the pipe just enough so it will turn in the hose, but not enough to get a massive leak. Rotate the pipe down until the section in front of the alternator is horizontal.

Remove the flat horizontal heat shield that lies on top of the exhaust in front of the sump & extends from the front of the sump forward under the alternator. It's mounted by 1 of the sump studs, the alternator pivot bracket, and a bracket to the top of an engine mount. (Removing this isn't absolutely necessary, but it gives you some badly needed extra space, and is one less source of a sharp edge.)

Removing the alternator bolts are a royal PITA.

WARNING: This procedure works, but generally you will make a blood sacrifice to the Ferrari Engineering team... It's also best done when there are no ladies or small children present, otherwise their 4-letter word vocabulary will be greatly expanded...

Remove the 3 nuts on the studs holding the alternator mounting bracket to the engine.

Remove the alternator adjustment bolt (See below).

Pivot the alternator around so you can get to & remove the alternator bracket by removing the pivot bolt & nut.

Remove the flat heat shield (or the venting cover depending on your model) from the back of the alternator.

Remove the battery cable & indicator wires from the alternator(you did disconnect the battery 1st didn't you).

Now you can remove the alternator by twisting it around until it squeezes out between the engine, over the exhaust manifold, & gas tank.

To remove or adjust the alternator tension adjusting bolt:
To hold the nut on the back end of the alternator tension adjusting bolt you have to:

1) Stick your hand holding a 17mm box end of a combination wrench up between the
forward (ie front of car) edge of the horizontal heatshield that runs along under the pulley end of the engine, and behind the rearward side of the vertical heatshield for the fwd exhaust manifold. The wrench goes on the nut 'backwards'
ie: the wrench is angled under the alternator & towards the outside of the car.

Turn the wrench so it jams against the exhaust manifold heatshield. It will generally stay jammed long enough for you to loosten the adjusting bolt with another wrench.

(It's almost impossible to do this with out scratching your arm or wrist on one
of the heat shield edges - the blood sacrifice...)

If you're lucky (fat chance) the wrench will stay on the nut until you've got the belt on & will swing down and jam itself against the alternator while you tighten the tensioning bolt again.

Tightening the alternator pivot bolt on re-assembly:
You have to use a socket on a long extension (10" - 12") to get to the nut for
the alternator pivot bolt. There's just enough room to get the wrench & socket
up beside the engine and then blindly poke the socket toward the alternator
until you get the socket onto the alternator nut.

The last time I pulled my alternator (for my timing bearing replacement), I
welded some pieces of 1/4" steel rod to the two nuts, locking them so they can't
turn. The photos are under one of the timing drive repair threads.

BTW, to put tension on the belt while tightening the adjusting bolt, the best
I've come up is to slip an angle ended pry bar between the top of the alternator
and the cam cover. Put the corner of the angle up against the cam cover, the
tip of the bar on top of the alternator & then lift up on the bar, forcing the
alternator downwards against the belt.

Good luck...

Mick Worrall (Catswhiskers)
New member
Username: Catswhiskers

Post Number: 23
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Thursday, September 18, 2003 - 8:50 am:   

And without wishing to state the obvious, dont attempt this job when engine is warm. It does get ******* hot under there.
Scott Anderson (Srandrsn)
Junior Member
Username: Srandrsn

Post Number: 194
Registered: 4-2001
Posted on Thursday, September 18, 2003 - 7:16 am:   

don't forget to disconect the battery first
Skip Williamson (Darolls)
Junior Member
Username: Darolls

Post Number: 64
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 - 11:00 pm:   

Without getting too technical; did you remove the right rear tire and wheelwell?

If so, the rest should be obvious. You don't have to drop the fuel tank.

Hardest part is getting a wrench on the upper nut, while you unscrew the bolt. But nothing other than the tire and wheelwell have to be removed.
Shamile Shams Kassam II (Shamile)
New member
Username: Shamile

Post Number: 17
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 - 9:04 pm:   

Dear Ferraristi,

Can you please guide me throught the sequence of events for removing an alternator from an 80' 308. I nice big coolant pipe seems to be in the way. Please don't say I have to drop the fuel tank as well. :-)

Shamile Shams Kassam II

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