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Rob Schermerhorn (Rexrcr)
Member
Username: Rexrcr

Post Number: 815
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Friday, September 19, 2003 - 5:50 pm:   

Gentlemen:

Here's my advice, and please, you assume all risk if you follow it.

Take the wheel apart, it's damaged or leaking already.

Now, you'll need a micrometer or caliper to measure the diameter of the old o-ring. If it's a Speedline or other European manufacturer, the o-ring and fasteners will be metric. Go to www.mcmaster.com for cut-to-size o-ring kit, which consists of bulk material (bunna-n, viton, etc.) and a cutting guide and super glue. Measure an old o-ring and cut new ones to size. Works great. Another source is Metric and Multistandard.

Now measure your fasteners. Best bet, (like with BBS) is new fasteners from the manufacturer, as most tell you not to re-use the old ones. Again, for metric, like the socket-head cap screw in the photo, go to http://www.metricmcc.com/ for new fasteners and metric fastener torque specifications. Measure the outer diameter of the threads, and get a thread pitch guage for fractional and metric fasteners.

The difference between metric and SAE/ fractional socket-head cap screws is metric will be stamped 8.8, 9.8, 10.9, 12.9, and fractional will have serrations on the head of the screw.

Machinist Handbook is a good source for fastener specifications.

For added insurance, use clear RTV silicone sealant once everything is bolted together. This last step is not necessary with BBS with new factory gaskets, proper cleaning and preparation of the inner, outer and center, and new fasteners torqued sequentially in a couple of steps, cross-wheel pattern.


Rob
Craig Dewey (Craigfl)
Member
Username: Craigfl

Post Number: 684
Registered: 1-2001
Posted on Friday, September 19, 2003 - 3:00 pm:   

Since they are socket head cap screws, I would torque them to Gr8 - Gr9 specs. I don't have my cheat sheet at work but I'll look it up when I get home. I would still need the diameter of the threaded area...
Dr Tommy Cosgrove (Vwalfa4re)
Intermediate Member
Username: Vwalfa4re

Post Number: 1301
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Friday, September 19, 2003 - 2:38 pm:   

That makes me feel better. There is a reddish sealant that is poking out thru some edges. Obviously this was out of a tube and not a single gasket. I just didn't know if it was used WITH the gasket. Here are the bolt heads. Any suggestion on torque amounts?Upload
chaz richards (Chaa)
Junior Member
Username: Chaa

Post Number: 107
Registered: 5-2003
Posted on Friday, September 19, 2003 - 10:01 am:   

I have got new 3 piece wheels from compomotive.And Shiltec Ferrari in the uk built them up by useing silicon sealant,and in fact one of my wheels was not quite sealed so my local garage did it again usung again silicon sealant.The wheels were designed to be striped.I was told by Shiltec ferrari that compomotive used to use rubber gasgits but now use silicon.
Craig Dewey (Craigfl)
Member
Username: Craigfl

Post Number: 683
Registered: 1-2001
Posted on Friday, September 19, 2003 - 9:25 am:   

The bolt torque will be the easiest. It is dependant on the bolt size(diameter) and the "strength" of the bolt. If they are hex head, they should have some kind of marking on their cap to indicate their strength -- like five marks, eight marks or even more.

The large o-ring will be more difficult. You can look here once you measure the size:

http://www.marcorubber.com/sizingchart.htm

http://www.oring.com/tech_size.asp
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Member
Username: Pma1010

Post Number: 441
Registered: 7-2002
Posted on Friday, September 19, 2003 - 9:17 am:   

I have a set of 16" BBS 3 piece I use on the track and street. From time to time one or other of the wheels develops a leak and it is usually (one of) the rims not sealing against the center wheel piece. Solution is to take it to my local shop and ask them to fix it. Each time it has been a question of removing all the bolts (about 40 or 50 on the BBS's I'd guess), splitting the rims, cleaning off any remaining gasket or sealant, applying new sealant and doing it all back up. About an hour and a half. $30.
HTH
Dr Tommy Cosgrove (Vwalfa4re)
Intermediate Member
Username: Vwalfa4re

Post Number: 1298
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Friday, September 19, 2003 - 8:59 am:   

My guys here said they have done this before but the gasket was the only difficult area. They said that, once separated, any bends, etc can be fixed. The biggest problem is air leaks after- unless the big o ring isn't replaced. I do not mind a slow leak or two since they are only on the car a few times a year. I just need to find that damn gasket and torque #'s.
Alan Leach (Speedy308)
Junior Member
Username: Speedy308

Post Number: 144
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Friday, September 19, 2003 - 8:48 am:   

Somebody chime in here, but I also run 3 pc. rims like this and have been told that field repair is not possible. The factory assembly of these things is the only way to get it right.
I was contemplating changing widths.
It's not so much a gasket as a giant O-ring.
And the tourque value on those little bolts is stratospheric.

Have you tried someplace like Wheels America?
Dr Tommy Cosgrove (Vwalfa4re)
Intermediate Member
Username: Vwalfa4re

Post Number: 1297
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Friday, September 19, 2003 - 7:47 am:   

I have a set of Compomotive FH 600 16 inch 2 piece wheels I use for track events. Two have a slight leak and I need to break them apart a reseal them again. My wheel repair shop told me I need to get the gasket and find out the bolt torque specs.
First, where in the world can I find the correct gaskets? I have emailed a couple of companies with no response so far.
Can anyone give me an approximate idea of the torque amounts for all those little bolts?

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