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Phil Hughes (Ferrarifixer)
Junior Member
Username: Ferrarifixer

Post Number: 183
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2003 - 10:51 pm:   

The next part is to try and get it all done without getting mis-readings due to the cooling fan cycles.

When the fans come on, HC goes up, idle speed goes down and vacuum decreases!

It's all a juggling match...which is one of the many reasons why the 512TR/M is such a more user friendly car than a TRossa!
Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member
Username: Henryk

Post Number: 1215
Registered: 8-2001
Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2003 - 8:43 pm:   

Into one of the vacuum lines, on each side, of the intake manifolds.......I use the "small" ones on mine.
William Moss (Moss)
New member
Username: Moss

Post Number: 6
Registered: 9-2003
Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2003 - 8:38 pm:   

Where do you plug the gauge hoses into typically?

Thanks, Again
Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member
Username: Henryk

Post Number: 1214
Registered: 8-2001
Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2003 - 8:29 pm:   

You will now need two vacuum gauges, to set the the by-pass screws, while watching the vacuum. The goal is equal vacuum on BOTH banks, with the idle at normal value.
William Moss (Moss)
New member
Username: Moss

Post Number: 5
Registered: 9-2003
Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2003 - 8:25 pm:   

My tr has a rough cold idle and smooth warm idle ( rough for a few seconds till I blip the gas when cold ). What is the procedure for setting the butterfly gaps and bypass screws. Also where can a person buy a co and hc tester. Thanks for the help. Billy
Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member
Username: Henryk

Post Number: 1213
Registered: 8-2001
Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2003 - 8:14 pm:   

While a single gas CO meter will work, remember, there is a CO "range". Within this range, one adjusts the CO, while looking at the HC to "fine tune" the system. I believe that a CO and HC meter should be used.
Phil Hughes (Ferrarifixer)
Junior Member
Username: Ferrarifixer

Post Number: 181
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2003 - 7:44 pm:   

The often overlooked aspect of TRossa tuning is the butterfly gaps.

They must be (very clean and) set to be perfectly equal to each other, on each bank at about .003". Then, when tuning, the vacuum drawn by each bank must also be measured and balanced using the idle speed/bypass screws. Every adjustment of this AND/OR the mixture will require a trim of the other.

And don't forget that the exhaust crosses over and the LH fuel metering unit runs the LH bank of cylinders....but exits from the RH exhaust pipe....subject to internal baffling being in good condition and/or your type of aftermarket system fitted....
William Moss (Moss)
New member
Username: Moss

Post Number: 4
Registered: 9-2003
Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2003 - 7:00 pm:   

Steve, would you try this with just a Co exhaust tester? I could not measure hydrocarbons with this test. Thanks, Billy
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr

Post Number: 2132
Registered: 1-2001
Posted on Friday, September 26, 2003 - 9:51 pm:   

Per the 330/84 TR WSM:

warm, but open-loop (O2 sensors unplugged) mode -- adjust CO to 0.8% +/- 0.2% and HC to 300 ppm or less

warm, closed-loop (O2 sensors plugged in) mode -- verify CO remains 0.8% +/- 0.2% and HC remains 300 ppm or less

(These CO/HC measurements would normally be made upstream of the precats, but since you're catless you can measure anywhere in your system.)
William Moss (Moss)
New member
Username: Moss

Post Number: 3
Registered: 9-2003
Posted on Friday, September 26, 2003 - 8:46 pm:   

My first question is: Can you use a single gas Co tester in the exhaust to make this adjustment?

The FSM calls to adjust each side to lowest Co output. Is this correct or should you try for a certain number of Co. My U.S. version has the pre-cats gutted and no cats with tubi. Thanks, Billy

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