| Author | Message | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 1227 Registered: 8-2001 |
Jeff: The fuel tank protection panels are three, in number.....two sides, and a center. | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 1226 Registered: 8-2001 |
Jeff: It seems that something else has to be loosened. Otherwise, when you heard a "bang", on removing the engine, how will you get it back? I loosened the lower shock support, and the shock can be easily moved along the shaft.....I didn't take them off. But, that is my next plan.....I am concerned about re-installation. RE: Exhaust. It seems that Bill used "two" pipes, because he eliminated the pre-cats. Since we plan on using ours , we only need one pipe.....I think that our idea would be easier. I have removed the thermocouple bracket and unit, throttle cable, and think that I am ready to remove the engine. The only thing left would be the shifter. I am hoping to remove the engine on Wednesday. Wish me luck. | ||
| Jeff Green (Carguy)
Member Username: Carguy Post Number: 566 Registered: 10-2002 |
Hi Henry: I'm not sure about removing the shock from it's bottom attachement as I think the springs are still under load with the shock all the way extended. This could be a difficult situation to deal with later on. Since I removed my air pump I didn't have any clearance problems with the motor-to-oil-tank hose. As for the fuel tank protection panels, my car was missing this when I bought it. I made a new one out of sheet steel, with clearance cut for the tank support brackets. Does your car have two panels? I made mine one big piece and then undercoated it. It's not orginal but it's better than nothing down there. Bill Badurski's resonators were for late model Vettes years 1984 to 1989 or something in that range. He said he had to cut them as short as possible without getting into the packing material, and weld them to his pipes. But his system did not cross over like we are thinking with using the precats. I also think his tips may have extended out the back farther than the factory tips do. Bill used a single pipe off of each header. I like that idea too. As a compromise between our idea and his, I guess a pipe off each header and crossing in an " X " shape and out the back would work too. I used to think there was no hope and now my mind just runs away with ideas...maybe some good and some bad, oh well. I've attached some pics of Bill's system. I hope this is okay since exhaust isn't really the topic of this thread.      | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 1224 Registered: 8-2001 |
I wonder if it would be easier, if the bottom of the shock is removed from it's support.....? I loosened the oil lines......used a pipe wrench. The one going from the engine to the dry sump tank had to be removed completely.....it would interfere with the air pump as the engine goes down.......did you note this? I removed the panels beneath the fuel tanks. Several bolts broke, and on two I had to plasma cut them......GREAT machine!!!!!! I think that you and I have the exhaust figured out. I have a program for a CNC mill that will cut the exhaust gaskets to the same size as the stock ones. We can use Chevy donuts (read CHEAP). Now I only need to know what resonator to use. I will ask Bill Badurski, on FCA chat for the exact model. I have TIG welding equipment, so making a support, that will fit the stock brackets should be easy. I can even weld a bracket between the resonators to keep them in their proper place. | ||
| Jeff Green (Carguy)
Member Username: Carguy Post Number: 565 Registered: 10-2002 |
Only three of the four shock mounting nuts needs to be removed from each of the 4 shocks. I believe they are 10mm and 13mm nuts. You'll have to look closely to see which nuts can stay. I mistakenly removed all of them, but it's not a big deal. Where I had the problem was when actually lowering the engine cradle down, it would hang up on the studs coming from the shocks because they are not vertically true but angled somewhat. It didn't look like it when I was fiddling around under there. But everytime I'd start to lower the drivetrain it would tilt towards the driver's side. I kept shaking and prying in different areas, and finally the whole thing slipped down off the right side rear shock studs with an alarming thud. And then I was home free. I had to use a swivel socket to remove the shock nuts as space is very tight in there. Either way these were not fun to do. About the exhaust...we see it exactly the same way. I have a buddy at work who has tons of books and catalogs with exhaust systems, mufflers, resonator, etc. I'm gonna ask him to bring that stuff in so I can see what's available for us. I'm really beginning to get excited about a simple bullit muffer with a single outlet that splits into two tailpipes and exits out the back. Do you realize how cool, light weight, and inexpensive that would be for a Testarossa? The only other thing would be to fab up some simple mounting or connector and use the factory hanger locations and as many original brackets as possible. Where there's a will there's a way! | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 1223 Registered: 8-2001 |
Jeff: Bumper is off. Four nuts and 4 bolts....easy, but the bumper is heavy. I will now tackle the shock mounts. I recall you had a problem with these. Any "easy" way? | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 1222 Registered: 8-2001 |
Jeff: Regarding the exhaust. I have removed mine and noticed that the precats make a 90 degree turn. I think it would be best to re-use these, thus eliminating the need for 2 into 1 construction.......very time consuming. Hence, your idea comes to mind. That is, putting small mufflers (resonators) at the end of the pre-cats, and making a pipe with a 90 degree bend to exit on the opposing side of the engine. This would seem to be the easiest route. Any idea for the resonators? I believe that Bill Badurski used some form of Corvette resonators. | ||
| Jeff Green (Carguy)
Member Username: Carguy Post Number: 562 Registered: 10-2002 |
I had to remove 8 bolts, 2 near each end of the bumper, and 2 each on the longitudinal frame rails that secure a mounting bracket. The manual must be referring to the Euro cars without the little secondary bumper (flat black piece you mentioned) the US cars have. The entire bumper comes off. Not a bad job to do at all. Just be careful not to chip or scratch the paint. | ||
| Tom Bakowsky (Tbakowsky)
Member Username: Tbakowsky Post Number: 658 Registered: 9-2002 |
I remove the entire bumper myself when doing this job. There are 4 8mm allen head bolts that attach the main bumper brackets to the sub-frame. These must be removed. These could be the bolts they are refering to. | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 1220 Registered: 8-2001 |
Jeff: What is the manual referring to when it states to remove the bumper, with just 4 bolts. Can you explain? Does the whole bumper come off.....all the painted part beneath the tail lights, or just that flat black piece in the middle? Thanks. |