| Author |
Message |
C.C.ofAtlanta (Atlantaman)
Member
Username: Atlantaman
Post Number: 263
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, October 05, 2003 - 8:16 pm: | |
Call TRutlands and get a USED metal one--probably only 100.00 or so
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Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 1172
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Friday, October 03, 2003 - 10:58 pm: | |
EPOXY I USED FOR PROCEDURE BELOW
Dug thru my adhesives box & found the one I used.
It's labled:
SuperGlue EPOXY ADHESIVE
Industrial Strength
Extra Setting Time
Reorder #: SY-SS 15851
30 min. Setting time, handle in 7hr. Full strength attained after 24hr.
Upon reflection, it wasn't that it was super thin, but that it stayed fluid long enough to do a lot of flowing.
A lot compressed out of the crack after I clamped it. I re-tightened the clamp after about 10 min & squeezed some more out.
General rule for adhesives is: The thinner the layer of adhesive, the stronger the bond.
DEVCON's 20 min. expoxy is very similar & I wouldn't hesitate to use it.
Also, In general slow cureing epoxies have the greatest bond strength when cured. |
Don McCormick (Dandy_don)
Junior Member
Username: Dandy_don
Post Number: 93
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2003 - 9:44 pm: | |
Thank you all for the expert advice. I will try the glueing procedure and let you know how it works out. Frankly it is quite reassuring to have this resource available at one's fingertips. I only hope that I can repay the favor to others. The problem is that I don't have that much experience and probably too much confidence which often tends to get me in over my head. Again thanks Don |
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Member
Username: Pma1010
Post Number: 465
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2003 - 2:12 pm: | |
Don
I had the same issue. I replaced all 4 (one gone today, 4 gone tomorrow...$$$$$ if one goes) with the alum sprockets. FYI, GT Parts sells them for $600/set.
Good luck with whatever choice you make. |
Jay Morris (Jm3)
Junior Member
Username: Jm3
Post Number: 56
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2003 - 9:43 am: | |
vey thin epoxy epoxy, about the consistency of milk, is available from "West Marine".
I have used it for many things, and I wouldn't hesitate to use it for repairing the sprocket. |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 1163
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2003 - 8:11 am: | |
Fixed the same problem 4 years ago. Still holding strong. Here's the procedure:
CAM GEAR BROKEN RIM REPAIR PROCEDURE:
Spread a thin film of petroleum jelly on one surface of each of a couple of laminate surfaced wooden blocks that are slightly larger than the gear's diameter. (Any hard surfaced material about 1/2" or so thick is OK.)
Thoroughly clean the cracked area with electric motor contact cleaner or another spray that does NOT leave any residue. Lacquer thinner should work also.
Mix up a flowable extra strong slow curing(10-20 min.) epoxy. Fibreglass resin should work but sets up fairly quickly.
Work the epoxy into the crack using a toothpick and awl tip or needle.
Clamp the cam gear between the lubricated sides of blocks using a large C-clamp.
When the epoxy has firmly gelled & while it is still clamped, scrape out the small amount of epoxy that has squeezed out into the joint between the rim & the teeth.
Let it cure over night in a warm (> 20 C) environment.
Unclamp the gear, clean any epoxy residue off of the outside of the gear by scraping or sanding.
Reinstall the repaired cam gear.
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Mark (Markg)
Member
Username: Markg
Post Number: 613
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2003 - 7:53 am: | |
Do like I did - spend $1K on a new aftermarket aluminium gear set (all new gears, seals and tensioners)...cheaper than a new enginge |
Phil Hughes (Ferrarifixer)
Junior Member
Username: Ferrarifixer
Post Number: 202
Registered: 7-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2003 - 7:02 am: | |
Extra strong araldite (not the quick set type), works well, as long as it's all very clean and dry before you apply it. Then leave it a few days before running the engine.
You can remove/mould it to shape when about 8 hrs dry and leave almost no signs of repair. |
JohnR. (Rivee)
Member
Username: Rivee
Post Number: 282
Registered: 1-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2003 - 1:21 am: | |
Why mess around with glue?
Get a new sprocket.....lots cheaper than a new motor |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Advanced Member
Username: Peter
Post Number: 3137
Registered: 12-2000
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 10:45 pm: | |
I should emphasize the liquid type of krazy glue, since you can get that stuff in gel and the gel wouldn't be good for that. You need to get bonding in the crack, outside on the surface wouldn't be as strong. |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Advanced Member
Username: Peter
Post Number: 3136
Registered: 12-2000
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 10:42 pm: | |
You could safely glue it back together. JB Weld wouldn't be good for a delicate edge like that, its more effective in a large clump and may upset balance on the pulley if used.
Try a liquid krazy glue, which would flow/wick into the crack between the flange and pulley body. |
Don McCormick (Dandy_don)
Junior Member
Username: Dandy_don
Post Number: 92
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 9:22 pm: | |
Hi, I need some advice. I have a plastic cam timing belt sprocket for a 76 308 and the plastic lip on the edge is coming off. The lip itself is in one piece but approximately half is no longer bonded to the sprocket anymore while the half that is still bonded seems quite secure. The question is, Can I glue/JB weld the lip back onto the sprocket or do I need a new sprocket? The other 3 sprockets are in very good shape and the lips all are soundly attached. If I need to get a new one where should I look and what would be a ballpark price? Thanks for your advice in advance. I know that several sources offer all new aluminum sprockets but am attempting to not put $1,000 plus into this. Don |