| Author |
Message |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 2145
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Monday, October 06, 2003 - 8:18 am: | |
gary -- (I don't like your description "beacuse my engine will not survived stopping at the red light" as this is clearly abnormal behavior when cold or hot, but) The simpliest thing to do would be to use an ignition timing light to confirm whether or not you're getting spark during your hot cranking no-start episodes. If ignition during hot cranking is confirmed OK (but still no-start), then you'd move on to the next step of putting a fuel pressure gage to check/monitor the supply side fuel pressure on your K-jet system. If that's OK, then you'd measure the control pressure from the warm-up regulator to the FD, and so on. I wouldn't go after the FD until all the simple tests were made/checked -- JMO... |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 1186
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Monday, October 06, 2003 - 8:15 am: | |
Gary, if you're going to troubleshoot this yourself, get a copy of:
Bosch Fuel Injection and Engine Management
by Charles O. Probst
Available from Amazon for about $20, $17 used:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0837603005/qid=1065449042/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/103-5076650-9792625?v=glance&s=books
& usually a couple of copies on on eBAY.
The other good references are:
BOSCH K-Jetronic Instruction Manual
BOSCH KE-Jetronic Instruction Manual
Hard to find, try searching the internet.
Does a great job of explaining how the K-Jetronic & it's variations such as KE-Jetronic systems work.
Fuel distributor is unlikely a heat related problem's cause. More likely one of the control elements such as the warmup regulator, pressure regulator, or the electronics if you have lambda (O2 sensor) control. |
Ken (Allyn)
Intermediate Member
Username: Allyn
Post Number: 1200
Registered: 10-2001
| | Posted on Monday, October 06, 2003 - 7:54 am: | |
There are a fair amount of hot start problems posted in FChat. One question that comes to my mind is if you guys are running aftermarket ignitions. Heat can kill these things and if it's mounted in the engine bay, it will not work correctly, if at all, when it gets cooked by the heat. Just a thought. |
Greg Rodgers (Joechristmas)
Member
Username: Joechristmas
Post Number: 813
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Monday, October 06, 2003 - 4:55 am: | |
What about your check valve? On my QV my fuel pump has an internal check valve. Did you get a fuel pump with a internal check valve, if not did you put an external check valve on the fuel pump? This is for your hot starting condition. |
DGS (Dgs)
Member
Username: Dgs
Post Number: 372
Registered: 5-2003
| | Posted on Monday, October 06, 2003 - 4:15 am: | |
This might be the idle speed adjustment screwed in too far. When cold, the aux air valve supplies idle air.
But if it won't start, even with throttle (pedal) applied when warm, it may be your control pressure regulator, just off the cuff.
Experts? |
gary teng (82_308gtsi)
New member
Username: 82_308gtsi
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2003
| | Posted on Monday, October 06, 2003 - 3:03 am: | |
Gentlemen,
my problem is related to 10.4.03 subject- 82 308gtsi fuel injection. When engine is cold, no problem starting and running perfectly as long as I stay on freeway and not in city with traffic light beacuse my engine will not survived stopping at the red light. It died on me and caused traffic jammed. It was enormously embarrassing. Hour later, when engine temp went down, I was able to start the engine and left there without looking back. Bottom line is, as soon as engine is warm/hot, it does not start. Fuel pump replaced. Cold start valve is not leaking nor it is spraying continuously when engine is hot. Is fuel distributor the source of problem ?? |