| Author | Message | ||
| Steven R. Rochlin (Enjoythemusic)
Member Username: Enjoythemusic Post Number: 797 Registered: 4-2002 |
Mike, The original filters may have fallen apart BUT then you get CRUD caught in the heating system. Check and CLEAN thoroughly, then use new filter :-) Enjoy the Drive, Steven R. Rochlin | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 550 Registered: 10-2002 |
If they're original, won't they have "disintegrated"? I'll need to check this... A kind fellow sent me a word document on the replacement procedure earlier this year, I'll have to check it out... | ||
| Skip Williamson (Darolls)
Junior Member Username: Darolls Post Number: 126 Registered: 7-2003 |
Have you checked the heater box filters. If they're badly clogged, I would think that would cut down the blower efficiency, as the blowers won't be pulling air. | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 548 Registered: 10-2002 |
This thread is very timely. My heater blower motors have, for the past year, seemed to get slower and slower... I've built a new fuse box, etc. Verell, Hans--you're suggesting that the motors themselves could/would likely be getting gummed up (after 25 years)? And this extra physical resistance by the motors would cause an increase in current draw? I don't have any problem with my A/C blower motor, but the heater ones are defintiely problematic. I can barely hear them any more, and they make my voltmeter in the car drop by a volt or so (!!!) when they're on. Hmm... It might be time to pull and rebuild... Which I've never heard up, but should be possible. I could document & photograph if somebody wants to lead the way w/ suggestions and technique  . | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member Username: Verell Post Number: 1211 Registered: 5-2001 |
Probably more like every 0.1 century... | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1714 Registered: 4-2002 |
Verell: Is this something that should be done every 1/3 century or so? | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member Username: Verell Post Number: 1208 Registered: 5-2001 |
I'd bet that the lubricant in both the heater & a/c blower motors has started to turn into cosmolene. A dis-assembly & reoiling of the bearings would probably greatly reduce their current draw and also improve your arflow. | ||
| mario navetta (Mar308)
New member Username: Mar308 Post Number: 14 Registered: 2-2003 |
I think its nomal for that fuse element to be hot appose to a interior lite circut. There is lot of draw on that circut for sure. If you want i am taking my car to work tommorow 308 i can check mine... Mario | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1713 Registered: 4-2002 |
My heater fan and A/C stopped working. Looked at the fuse, and it was brown inside - sort of tar-like. A small blob of solder was sticking to it's base. The filament element was intact. I removed it, and it measured 28 ohms! I put in a new 25A fuse, and all seems OK, except that I noticed that the fuse is quite hot when both the heater blower and the A/C is on. Now, this is *NOT* a fusebox problem. I have a new fusebox that has been totally soldered up. The metal tabs holding the fuse are tight, and, most importantly, are cool. It's the fuse itself that is hot. Absolutely no question about it. Before installing the new fuse, I touched up the contacts with fine sandpaper, and applied some Stabilant 22. So.... Either I have a circuit element going bad - a motor or???, or else the circuit is designed poorly, such that it can't handle the load of both the heater and A/C. I'll have to hit the various parts of the circuit with an ammeter and see what it's drawing. I guess I could do this at the fusebox by simply switching on and off the different circuits connected to this fuse. If something is defective, my money is on one of the heater blowers. |