| Author |
Message |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 1279
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2003 - 9:06 pm: | |
Actually, I was thinking about a couple of small machine shops in little industrial parks near here.
They generally seem quite willing to take on odd little jobs like this for surprisingly low fees. Especially if you aren't in a big hurry so they can use it as a 'fill-in' project. Just don't leave it so long that they can forget what the piece is & who left it.
It's amazing what resources you can find when you ask around at some local speed/race shops.
My 'Machine Shop'
I do have a MIG welder but you know it's a small one. but I only got my 7x12 Speedway mini-lathe from Hormier last fall to do some pieces for Unobtainium. It's pretty small:
about 3' long, 12" high, and about a foot deep.
Light enough so you can pick it up & store it under your workbench if you need to.
See: www.mini-lathe.com
There's generally a handfull of mini-lathes for sale on eBAY for about $299 such as this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2565719288&category=42337
Look for ones being sold in dutch auctions by 'VolumeDeals' which is a Hormier alias.
My 'mill' is a 1/2" Craftsman radial drill press that I chose it's arbor bearings are rated for axial thrust, and an Craftsman X-Y table that now sells for about $70 on eBAY as a nameless unit. But it gets the job done as long as I work at it's snail's pace.
So all in all, I've probably only got about $1000 in my 'machine shop, including hold-down clamps, chucks, collets, lathe & mill bits.
Anything requiring larger tooling I go find one of the small machine shops I mentioned.
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Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member
Username: Yelcab1
Post Number: 719
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2003 - 9:42 am: | |
Quote:
Also, a machine shop could build up the corroded area by welding, then regrind it smooth
End of quote.
Verell, This is easy for you because you own a welder, and a lathe, probably two each. I had to borrow a 125A welder, and there is no room in my marriage for a lathe, let alone room in the garage.
Damn, I wished I owned a lathe and a mill. I could call myself a ... machine shop. |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 1272
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Monday, October 20, 2003 - 11:01 pm: | |
If you need a WP shaft, check out
www.superformance.co.uk
They sell stainless steel ones.
Also, a machine shop could build up the corroded area by welding, then regrind it smooth. |
Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member
Username: 4re_gt4
Post Number: 1740
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Monday, October 20, 2003 - 4:51 pm: | |
A "kit", as such, can be put together from generic parts house parts. However, the shaft can be in need of replacing. T. Rutlands had them, if I recall.
New 'large bearing' pumps can be had from George Evans for $300-$350. However, your small bearing pulley may not fit - especially if it has two grooves. I had to replace mine with a single groove pulley. The other groove was for a non-existant smog pump. |
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Member
Username: Pma1010
Post Number: 482
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2003 - 11:16 am: | |
I am in the middle of reassembly after a WP failure on my 77. The 79s have a different front cam belt cover set up so that (I am told) you don't need to pull the cover (along with the AC etc) as you do on the earlier cars.
If the bearings have gone, check the condition of the shaft. Mine had pitted and required replacement. |
Christopher L. Lawrenz (Ferraridude)
Junior Member
Username: Ferraridude
Post Number: 71
Registered: 3-2003
| | Posted on Friday, October 17, 2003 - 8:19 pm: | |
Verell,
Thank you very much!
Chris. |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 1235
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 15, 2003 - 2:55 am: | |
If you don't need to replace the hoses & o-ring, you can unbolt & remove the front of the pump to rebuild it. Thoroughly disasemble & clean it before making the final call. The 'nose' that houses the bearings is prone to developing fatal cracks.
On a '79 I believe that a small portion of one of the cam belt covers extends over the front edge of the pump. You can either remove the cover, or neatly trim the obstructing portion away. The newer covers come with the obstruction removed.
I also remember about a 2mm interference between something & the edge of the pump that I had to remove. Used a rotozip blade in a dremel tool to mill out the slot. Takes a very steady hand and going very slow with the blade spinning very fast.
Search the archives, there are several posts that describe the various water pump bearing & seal varients, plus a link to the 308GTB register site that has a nice rebuild procedure under their tech tips. I posted some additional recommendations that may keep you from breaking the pump during the rebuild.
If you have a pump with small bearings, it's generally believed best to replace the front with one that has the large bearings.(Best means more reliable). However, if your old small bearing pump gave 23+ years, maybe the risk of the bearings going is fairly small. Maybe worth takeing since rebuilding the pump is pretty easy.
BTW, rebuild kits are getting harder to find as the dealers are encouraging replacement instead.
Their argument is that many housings are cracked or get cracked during the rebuild. IMHO if you follow the recommendations in my post the chances of cracking the housing are greatly reduced.
In theory a cracked housing could be welded & remachined. I haven't heard of anyone doing it tho. |
Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member
Username: Yelcab1
Post Number: 707
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 14, 2003 - 10:27 pm: | |
The O-ring is for where the water pump meets the block. |
Christopher L. Lawrenz (Ferraridude)
Junior Member
Username: Ferraridude
Post Number: 70
Registered: 3-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 14, 2003 - 9:43 pm: | |
Hey Tom,
Thanks!
Yes it does have A/C! What do you perferr in water pumps, rebuild kit or rebuild R&R?
By the By, I did replace those hoses in the engine "V", they looked origional!
Whats the "O-ring" for? Thanks,Chris. |
Tom Bakowsky (Tbakowsky)
Member
Username: Tbakowsky
Post Number: 717
Registered: 9-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 14, 2003 - 8:35 pm: | |
Does you car have a/c? If it does you can get the water pump out without have to remove the rear timing belt cover. It does take a little effort to do, but not as much as it does to remove that damn compressor!!. Maybe while your at it; once you have the pump off,replace the two coolant hoses in the "V" of the engine, that go to the water pumps rear housing,and of course the outer one to the coolant pipe from the rad. The job is really quit simple. Oh ya don't forget to order a new o-ring. |
Christopher L. Lawrenz (Ferraridude)
Junior Member
Username: Ferraridude
Post Number: 69
Registered: 3-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 14, 2003 - 8:05 pm: | |
Hey Ferrari Gurus,
I'm going to attempt a water pump on my 79, probably go with either a rebuid kit or a repuilt R/R. Can any one give me some helpful hints???
Thank you, Chris!!! |