| Author |
Message |
Phil Hughes (Ferrarifixer)
Member
Username: Ferrarifixer
Post Number: 253
Registered: 7-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 3:23 am: | |
Internal collapse turns the hose into a one way valve.
Your effort from your leg has such great leverage advantage that you force the fluid through the collapsed internal restrictions, but the caliper seals have only minimal force to push the pistons back.
If you think you have this condition, jack the car up to find the binding brake, then crack off the bleed screw while trying to turn the disc/wheel. If the caliper is fine and hose blocked, the wheel will instantly turn and a bit of fluid come out the bleeder.
Change the hoses as axle pairs always. Cut one open and you'll see it looks like a camels arse in a sandstorm...... |
Rob Schermerhorn (Rexrcr)
Member
Username: Rexrcr
Post Number: 854
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Friday, October 24, 2003 - 7:22 am: | |
Prop the brake pedal about an inch or so to block the internal passageway in the master. This keeps the reservoir from draining, less mess.
Move the suspension and steering full bump/ rebound and lock to lock to ensure the lines don't bind up or get caught on something else.
OEM style lines can collapse internally and you'd not know until you experience diminished braking capabilities. This may be caused by debris striking the line but no visual external damage is noted, age, incompatible substances contaminating the system, or water corroding components. |
Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member
Username: Pupz308
Post Number: 594
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, October 23, 2003 - 11:43 pm: | |
Thanks very much for the tips, Verell, and for the direction regarding pre-soaking the fittings with the penetrant (have to get some "PB Blaster").
Can somebody tell me what it means for a brake line (like I'm replacing) to "collapse," and the effect that that would have on the braking system?
|
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 1296
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 - 10:24 pm: | |
Those lines have been on there a long time, and
will be corroded on. Start by soaking all fittings/joints/bolts with PB Blaster 2x/day for 2-3 days before you start.
Make sure you have some strong tubing wrenches.
Craftsman, SK, or one of the bigger names. Cheap
tubing wrenches will either strip the fittings, break, or stretch, slip on the fittings & ruin themselves!
When breaking the line to a front caliper loose, I actually had a Craftsman tubing wrench open up enough so that is slipped on one of the fittings!
Thought it had broken loose. Ended up clamping the wrench closed with a pair of vice grips while I broke the fitting loose! The steel in those Craftsman tubing wrenches is thick as well!
Other than the stuck fittings it should be a pretty straightforward job.
Oh, yes, double check the length of each new line against the line it'll replace before you take things apart. |
Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member
Username: Pupz308
Post Number: 589
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 - 6:34 pm: | |
I just ordered new Stainless steel braided teflon brake lines from Orme Brothers, www.OrmeBros.com (contact: Johnny).
Reference thread:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/112/331554.html?1066865519
I've replaced all my calipers, so am pretty familiar with the brake system in general.
I've never changed brake lines, though.
Would appreciate any advice, procedures, things-to-watch-out-for, etc.
I'll document this as I go...
1978 308 GTS, US Spec.
--Mike |
|