| Author |
Message |
Ian Bishop (Doubleoh7)
New member
Username: Doubleoh7
Post Number: 3
Registered: 5-2003
| | Posted on Friday, October 31, 2003 - 5:27 pm: | |
Maybe awfully simple, but i had this problem - exactly as described, and all it turned out to be was the bottom of the plastic door pull know catching on the sleeve, basically stopping it from going down. By tightening it up, it never happened again. Took me a while to figure this out! |
John A (Jarends)
Member
Username: Jarends
Post Number: 326
Registered: 7-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 29, 2003 - 9:12 pm: | |
Ron, got your email and really appreciate your input. I'm scheduled to do the exploration on Saturday.
I appreciate you and Kurt for the helping hand, I'll let you know how it goes.
John |
Ron Vallejo (Ron328)
Member
Username: Ron328
Post Number: 307
Registered: 3-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 29, 2003 - 5:29 pm: | |
John,
I had the same intermittent problem before with my 328. Last winter, I couldn't lock the door manually or with the keys. On the passenger side, the key wouldn't even engage, ie., the knob on the door won't go down (I could feel some "resistance" when I try to lock it). When I try to lock on the driver side, it would unlock again bec. something seems to be resisting the
locking mechanism on the other side.
The solenoid was replaced on the passenger side
(I had a trusted mechanic do it) and it solved the problem...until the next day, when it started doing it again. So what I did was, removed the upholstery panel on both sides of the door, carefully sprayed all joints (involved in the locking system) with WD-40, and "exercised" them. Problem completely solved now. My thought is that with age, the locking (esp. the joints) mechanism may become stiff (they need more lubrication) and hence, causing resistance to movement. As you know, a problem on one side will cause malfunction of the whole locking system. Am no mechanic, but the aforementioned solved mmy headache.
I have not encountered any clicking on mine though.
Regards,
Ron
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Kurt Kjelgaard (Kurtk328)
Junior Member
Username: Kurtk328
Post Number: 237
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 10:03 am: | |
I guess that if the adjustment is right on limit changes in outside conditions could determine if its working OK or not.
There is risk of simply burning out the actuator if it allowed to operate continously - it is not designed for that.
(All four actuators on my BMW went south because they were being energized by a faulty controller overnight. Simply overheating, plastics melting and finally seizing.)
Disconnect the rod and pull/push the actuator arm in and out of the housing - it should move freely and not requiring too much force.
If you have the courage, it is possible to unscrew the actuators from door frame, disconnect the actuator rod, unplug wires and carefully open the housing to take a look inside.
The housings are glued together, so a sharp hobby knife can do the job.
Reassemble with glue used for plastic models.
I installed a Clifford window module to operate the windows with my alarm and put in the Clifford actuators. They actually sit in the same place as the original ones and only required a new actuator rod and a modification to the connector.
Works wonderful - gives one touch capability among other things.
By the way, I am not entirely convinced about the "water in the solenoid" theory. Check, however, that the plastic "curtains" are correctly fitted inside the door - they guide water away from the sensitive innards and onto the bottom of the door. If they are fitted incorrectly or missing you can have problems. |
John A (Jarends)
Member
Username: Jarends
Post Number: 322
Registered: 7-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 8:27 am: | |
Thanks Kurt, I know it's not the mirror, checked that one. Interesting about the rod, I am going to check that out. Would it stop after awhile as it's doing?
I guess with the way you describe the passenger locking, it could bind up.
Thanks,
John |
Kurt Kjelgaard (Kurtk328)
Junior Member
Username: Kurtk328
Post Number: 236
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 8:23 am: | |
Hi John,
The clicking could indicate a need for adjustment of the linkage between the locking motor and the locking mechanism.
With the door panel off and the door closed, try to wiggle the rods and see if you can reproduce the problem.
No wiggling should be able to activate the motor, in locked or unlocked mode.
It is difficult to describe in words, but you should be able to determine the necessary adjustments.
The motor itself can be moved a bit around and the different rods can be straightned or bent as required.
I noticed that you referred to the actuator as a solenoid - it is actually a little electro motor with a some sort of inertia clutch system driving a small nylon rack in and out of the housing.
One very remote possibility as to the source of the clicking - if the mirror switch is stuck or the wiring is shorted somehow, the mirror would be continously hitting an extreme position where it would produce a clicking sound from the plastic gears in the mirror mechanism. I am sure you would have noticed, but.... |
John A (Jarends)
Member
Username: Jarends
Post Number: 321
Registered: 7-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 8:02 am: | |
Maybe someone out there has had or knows about a problem that came back this week.
On the 328s when you lock the driver door, the passenger door locks as well. When I first got the car, it didn't lock and you couldn't do it manually. The mechanics told me that water gets into the soleniod and freezes it up. It's stuck again and I can't lock it with the key or by pushing down the lock button.
ALSO: there is a clicking coming from the drivers side door. Like Bruce's batteries, it keeps going and going. Drove it over the w/e and it never stopped. It must have stopped sometime during the night after parking it, it wasn't clicking in the morning.
I think it has something to do with the locking, but before I start pulling it apart, I'd love to have someones opinion or experience.
Thanks,
John |
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