| Author |
Message |
Skip Williamson (Darolls)
Junior Member
Username: Darolls
Post Number: 193
Registered: 7-2003
| | Posted on Friday, October 31, 2003 - 12:51 am: | |
A car normally has to be driven at least ten miles to come up to proper operating temp. The temp necessary to burn off the side effects of combustion, i.e. moisture, acids and other pollutants that occur during combustion.
The oil has to be circulating at a rather vigorous rate, to maintain good pressure, and idling can cause a a rich running condition where the gas is washing down the cylinder walls, and allowing raw fuel to contaminate your oil.
What's most important is your oil temp., which will take a much greater length of time to reach operating temp. than your coolant will.
Also, the other components of the drive train will not get a work out.
Bottom line, and I'm not sure I explained it well, is don't start the car unless you intend to drive it.
If the car is only going to be idle for 4-6 months during the winter season, this isn't long term storage. So you don't have much to worry about if you don't start it.
All I do in the off season is to have a full tank of fuel, and a maintainer on the battery. No fuel stabilizers, nothing!
Never had a problem!!! |
Bill V (Doc)
Member
Username: Doc
Post Number: 466
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, October 30, 2003 - 7:14 pm: | |
Steve--why wouldn't it be good to start the car every so often and, if unable to drive, allow it to warm up and operate all of the systems? |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 1324
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 29, 2003 - 10:28 pm: | |
WINTER STORAGE LINKS & TIPS
---------------------------
You probably already started with an internet & Technical Archives search for something like:
+(winterize,winter) +car +storage, but just in case, here's one from the archives:
That's what I did a couple of years ago.
Here are some of the sites I bookmarked. The 1st 4-5 have the best info. There's a fair amount of overlap, but each has something unique
to contribute. Most of them still seem to be around:
http://www.thecorvettespecialist.com/winterstorage.htm
http://www.porschenet.com/winter.html
http://www.panteraplace.com/page132.htm
http://ca.autos.yahoo.com/010926/11/b0c9.html
http://www.nastyz28.com/2gcog/winter.html
http://www.salemboysauto.com/faqs/faq-41.htm
http://www.hitmantransam.com/
http://www.mame.mu.oz.au/salman/zstoring.html
http://www.caam.com/storagetips.asp
http://www.caam.com/storagetips_spring.asp
http://archives.gigo.com/crpl/2000-10/msg00143.html
http://www.carcarecouncil.org/fw01-stor.htm
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/storing.html
http://www.carcareonline.com/car_cover.html
http://mocc.freeservers.com/winterstorage.htm
http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/Series/FAQ.S.winter.storage.html
BTW, don't believe the now obsolete recommendation against storing a battery on a concrete floor to avoid 'discharging' it.I was really surprised to see it in a couple of the sites for the more serious auto enthusiasts. That tip goes back to the days of wooden battery frames around glass cells & the carbon black filled rubber cases that became more conductive when damp. Hasn't been a problem since the '60s when plastic cases became standard.
Sitting on concrete or even dirt won't hurt a modern battery. However, if the battery isn't pretty new, it's a good idea to put it on some plastic or a board just to keep any acid that might ooze out from etching the concrete.
Radial tires unlike the older bias ply tires are pretty much resistant from developing flat spots. You can ensure you won't get flat spots by inflating the tires to just about the max pressure rating molded into the sidewall. Typically 45-60 psi. |
dave handa (Davehanda)
Intermediate Member
Username: Davehanda
Post Number: 2191
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 29, 2003 - 8:18 pm: | |
Lot's of tips if you search the archives.... |
Dave (Dave)
Member
Username: Dave
Post Number: 649
Registered: 4-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 29, 2003 - 1:14 pm: | |
Darrell, I have started on my winter project early...
Entire under carriage rebuild on my 308.
So if you like, bring me your car and I will give it all the attention it needs over the mild winter we have here in Arkansas.
In other words, I'll drive it baby! |
steve wilcox (Stevew)
New member
Username: Stevew
Post Number: 34
Registered: 6-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 29, 2003 - 12:53 pm: | |
Put it in a Carcoon.
The constant air movement inside the carcoon stops any chance of condensation forming.The transformer also doubles as a trickle charger for the battery.
Also Change the oil & filter.
Johns right drive to drive it if you can,get all the fluids to temp and exercise the brakes and suspension.If you can't drive it,just leave it,don't just idle the engine.
regards Steve |
John Wise (Jwise)
Junior Member
Username: Jwise
Post Number: 79
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 29, 2003 - 12:19 pm: | |
Hi Darrell, how's it going?
I've been told that some fuel stabilizer, and extra air in the tires is all. Drive it once a month if possible, or just let it sit without running it at all. That's what the dudes at Boston Sports Car told me. I was planning to put some of that absorber in the cockpit to help with the moist winter air and move it by hand to help the tires. I have a list of projects for the car this winter, so that should not be a problem. I'll also unplug the battery.
That being said, I'm hoping someone will answer with experience because I am in the same boat as you are. (Maine winter/ unheated garage). |
Darrell Pardy (Dpardyferrari)
Junior Member
Username: Dpardyferrari
Post Number: 51
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 29, 2003 - 11:18 am: | |
If this has been posted before please redirect.
I have a 1984 308GTSi and I am thinking about storing it in my own unheated garage this year (Maine). Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. |