| Author | Message | ||
| Martin (Miami348ts)
Advanced Member Username: Miami348ts Post Number: 2870 Registered: 5-2001 |
See Rob, this is what pisses me off, why should the diamond plate be $400 more? The steel for the diamond plate is maybe $50 and the welding is $350? Gimme a break! I am getting a wood as well and then upgrade it myself to a diamond. Crist for the $350 I can buy the welding machine! | ||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 2242 Registered: 12-2000 |
That's a really good idea. The diamond plate version of this trailer was another $400 bucks and I was cheap at the time. It does me just fine for now, soon I want an enclosed trailer. | ||
| CHAD STEVENS (Tahoecrs)
New member Username: Tahoecrs Post Number: 11 Registered: 6-2002 |
if you are worried about rust with a steel trailer why not strip the trailer down and get it sandplasted and then get it powdercoated? i know the two places in Dallas to go. I use to work for a auto shop and we would take things to get powdercoated and sandblasted. Once you powder coat the frame, it doesnt come off. They have boths big enough for 16' trailers maybe even 18, and they have a wide variety of colors. | ||
| Martin (Miami348ts)
Advanced Member Username: Miami348ts Post Number: 2851 Registered: 5-2001 |
Funny Rob, I was about to get one of those as well with the wood deck. Ever thought about putting a diamond plate on the wood? Just for looks? Martin | ||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 2196 Registered: 12-2000 |
It may be 16', anyone know how long the RX7 is? The back of the trailer and car line up and there's about 3' open in front. | ||
| Horsefly (Arlie)
Junior Member Username: Arlie Post Number: 247 Registered: 5-2002 |
I bought a used, double axle, 16 foot standard utility trailer that had a fold down, full width, 6 foot long ramp on the rear. It was not a car hauling trailer; it had a 1 foot tall rail around the perimeter. Paid $500 for it. I pulled off the rotting wood floor, reprimered and painted every square inch of it top and bottom with Rustoleum paint. Replaced the rotting wood floor with treated lumber. I then added large tie down loops to each of the 16 uprights that support the 1 foot tall railing. I then added a large, hand crank, WORM GEAR winch to the front end. Even though it has a railing around it which most car hauler trailers do not, it has never been a problem to haul any car that I wanted. You just can't open the doors after the car is on the trailer. But for my $500 initial cost plus about $200 for new wood, paint, and rewiring hardware, it works great for me. With 16 available tie points, I can lash down just about anything. I have hauled 3 wheeled Cushman scooters, giant engine hoists, cars, and even a couple of old Jeep FC-170 pickup trucks with 9 foot beds. They barely fit on there, but they rode fine. I even found a set of used 1995 GMC wheels to match my truck. I do NOT have electric brakes on my trailer, but I did install the electric brake wiring in case I want to add the electric brake hubs later on. So far, using my extended cab '95 GMC as a tow vehicle, I have had no problems without the electric brakes. But then, most everything that I have loaded for towing is usually missing an engine or major parts so that the weight is usually less than a full sized vehicle. Hey Rob Lay, I may be wrong, but just judging by the photo of your trailer, it looks more like a 16 footer than an 18 footer. Mine looks pretty much like yours, but my railings go down the side as well and the rails are made of angle iron instead of tubing. It was also made in Texas, where they seem to crank out thousands of those utility trailers. | ||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 2193 Registered: 12-2000 |
Here's a picture of my trailer. Chris is right, the paint is awful, no clear coat. I put a post it note on the trailer for 1 minute and the paint came off when removing it. The trailer after one year has already started to rust. It's a great trailer though, 18 ft. long, max width, two axels, and brake axel. Bought brand new in Dallas for $1,150. They had a huge price war down here the last couple years, the company that made mine lost and is no longer in business. Also, they used truck wheels and tires to save money, but I prefer them over the typical light trailer sets.  | ||
| Cmparrf40 (Cmparrf40)
Member Username: Cmparrf40 Post Number: 420 Registered: 3-2002 |
I had a steel open trailer, it was over 1 thoudand pounds heaver than my new aluminum. The weight capicity rating is the same between my old steel and the new aluminum, why carry around an extra 1,000lbs? Maintenance? Well, how often does the steel trailer need painting? But, there are alot of excellent steel trailers on the market, they do weigh more, and have more maintenance, but they are a hell of alot less money. Steel trailers are a bargin, aluminum is a great choice if you are willing to pay for it. | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
Intermediate Member Username: Tifosi Post Number: 1363 Registered: 9-2001 |
he is a steel trailer guy  . Aluminum should become cheaper there is so much of the darn stuff | ||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 2179 Registered: 12-2000 |
I don't know about the enclosed aluminum trailers, but a steel trailer manufacturer told me steel is better than aluminum because 1) They aren't heavier anymore. 2) They're easier to work on or fix. 3) Still big price difference. I have a 18ft. steel trailer with wood floor. It could haul anything I can fit on there. I think it's important to get a brake axel though. | ||
| Cmparrf40 (Cmparrf40)
Member Username: Cmparrf40 Post Number: 419 Registered: 3-2002 |
Dave, I am going to go with an all aluminum trailer, while more expensive it is lighter. I am going to sell my 45' fifthwheel. steel trailer, aluminum floors, triple axle, stainless rear door, outside halogen lighting, aluminum rims, ramp extension (F40 goes right in, no scraping) brand new Michelins, e-track and cabinets. This trailer was $31,000 new, I will be asking $20,000. I am going to keep my open aluminum 20' trailer for short hauls, it is great, Exciss, I know some other Ferrarichat guys have this trailer and love it. Good luck Dave! Chris | ||
| Dave Wapinski (Davewapinski)
Member Username: Davewapinski Post Number: 336 Registered: 8-2001 |
Did you end up with aluminum or steel? | ||
| Dave Wapinski (Davewapinski)
Member Username: Davewapinski Post Number: 334 Registered: 8-2001 |
Thanks, it does. Dave | ||
| Cmparrf40 (Cmparrf40)
Member Username: Cmparrf40 Post Number: 418 Registered: 3-2002 |
Dave, I have been trailer shopping over the last 2 months, almost daily. I have three car trailers now, while not an expert, I am not a rookie either. You have pretty much answered your own questins. The area you did not address is what kind of tow vehicle you have. If you are using a Suburban or a Excursion for example, you must use a tag or bumper hitch trailer. If you are using a pick up, a fifthwheel is far superior, safer, easier to handle, carries heavier loads. Open aluminum trailers are roughly twice as expensive as similar steel trailers. Enclosed trailers, aluminum is roughly 30% to 40% more, I do not know why the difference narrows, but it does seem to. A high end open aluminum trailer will start aroung $4,500. The sky is the limit on enclosed Aluminum trailers based on options. Most enslosed aluminum trailers are custom built, so are difficult to compare. I have been quoted as high as $71,000 for a 38' all aluminum stacker to a low of $52,000, so it pays to shop. (these are very heavily optioned with a/c and generator etc.) A good steel open trailer will run you around $2,000.00, if you can, get a tilt bed. If the budget allows, a rollback is wonderful, about $3,500 in steal, about twice that in aluminum. I hope this helps Chris | ||
| Dave Wapinski (Davewapinski)
Member Username: Davewapinski Post Number: 324 Registered: 8-2001 |
Will probably need a trailer soon. Like to use something like this not just to haul a Ferrari, but maybe something like a full size van, snowmobiles, or whatever else needs to be hauled. What is best aluminum or steel? Aluminum would not rust, would be lighter, but probably much more expensive. Steel would probably be much cheaper and stronger. Which is best? What are the best places to get a new or used one? Any other advice? |