| Author | Message | ||
| Modified348ts (Modman)
Member Username: Modman Post Number: 380 Registered: 11-2001 |
Magoo and Lawrence both are true and like I said if you can shift weather up or down smoothly without feeling the jerk, you are shifting smoothly. Downshifting takes a lot more practice than upshifting, whenever I downshift I quickly brake and gas a split second before downshift. The hard part is timing the revs and speed before downshifting and through the sound of the motor and guess of the speed I'm at and naturally it's perfect all the time. | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 3229 Registered: 2-2001 |
Lawrence, that makes 2 of us. I feel that when you down shift and do not match the rpms. the clutch takes one hell of a shock. I will agree though that depending on how long and how much you ride the clutch whether from a start or just city driving it can take its toll much faster. | ||
| Lawrence Coppari (Lawrence)
Member Username: Lawrence Post Number: 307 Registered: 4-2002 |
I have to think that slipping the clutch on upshifts is worse. On downshifts, you're only changing the speed of the engine when there is a mismatch in shaft speeds (engine has no load). On upshifts, you're changing the speed of the car, particulary bad if engine speed is above drivetrain speed (engine has big load that clutch must cope with to stop slipping). There has to be more wear on a slipping upshift with your foot on the throttle. I've never replaced a clutch in anything. | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 3227 Registered: 2-2001 |
Contrary to some beliefs I feel that one of the biggest factors causing clutch wear is downshifting from high speeds and not syncronizing engine speed with the clutch rpms. It is as bad, and probably worse, than slipping the clutch at a start or using the clutch as a hill holder. JMO | ||
| mike 308 (Concorde)
New member Username: Concorde Post Number: 42 Registered: 8-2002 |
a 308QV and 328 share the same clutch components | ||
| Tim N (Timn88)
Intermediate Member Username: Timn88 Post Number: 1480 Registered: 6-2001 |
Modman is living proof that these cars can take a reasonable amount of abuse and not break. Only when they do break its not gonna be cheap to fix. | ||
| Modified348ts (Modman)
Member Username: Modman Post Number: 378 Registered: 11-2001 |
No secrets in saving a clutch life, just practice and get use to feeling the gripping point everytime you take off in first gear for moving into first gear and when you are at a stop, put it in neutral instead of having the clutch put down. I've seen knuckleheads drive my cars and all I hear is dragging of the clutch. I have never replaced a clutch on any of my cars and if you drive properly it will last more than a few major services. 36K on 348 clutch no problems and I drive it hard, done plenty spin outs like you wouldn't believe and car still pulls hard without slipping. You really have to know your car, feel where the best shifting point is on regular driving ( not racing ) feel where the clutch grips. When I drive normally you can barely tell that I even shifted to the next gear feeling smooth like an automatic transmission. When I rev higher than normal the shift is tight and responsive without the dragging or popping change of gears. Another hint I can give also if you have a hard time going into reverse shift into 2nd or 4th...on other cars like Jap cars 2nd gear works all the time. | ||
| Matt Lemus (Mlemus)
Junior Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 231 Registered: 8-2002 |
Henry, I have a 308 and a 512bbi. I don't race at lights because of the age. I was wondering how to shift better. M | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 316 Registered: 8-2001 |
Matt: While all the previous posts have good advice, the BEST is to buy the RIGHT car! If you want to take off fast, and replace countless clutches, then buy a 308. Don't get me wrong, for these are great touring cars. But, at 205 HP and their gearing, they are SLOW off the line. I had a 2V, 4V, and 328. All are slow off the line, with the 328 being the best, due to 260 HP and a stronger clutch already. When you read of people having clutch problems, haven't you noticed that most are 308's? This is because they feel they have a Ferrari, and it MUST be quick!.....thus they wreck their clutches trying to prove this to themselves. I would recommend a TR, at the least. Here you can start off fast, and have an adequate clutch, already installed by the factory. IMO | ||
| Nick Berry (Nickb)
New member Username: Nickb Post Number: 16 Registered: 8-2002 |
Blipping the throttle on the upshift? I agree the engine rev usually have fallen considerably between shifts but it seems to me that approach would also wear the clutch.  | ||
| Lawrence Coppari (Lawrence)
Member Username: Lawrence Post Number: 303 Registered: 4-2002 |
'v' is next to 'b' on the keyboard. | ||
| Lawrence Coppari (Lawrence)
Member Username: Lawrence Post Number: 301 Registered: 4-2002 |
First gear on my 328 is the proberbial stump puller. I just engage the clutch. Car moves, then give it gas once clutch if fully engaged. This saves clutch. I have a souped up 944turbo track car that has a 4 cylinder motor. I requires a little gas to get going. At red lights with Mustangs et al, I let them go initially. Their euphoria is short lived. My 944 turbo is close to 400 hp in cold weather. | ||
| Tim N (Timn88)
Intermediate Member Username: Timn88 Post Number: 1477 Registered: 6-2001 |
"f) If you're sitting at a stoplight slightly uphill, don't use the clutch as a brake." i cant stand when people do this, nor can i stand the smell it sometimes causes. | ||
| BobD (Bobd)
Member Username: Bobd Post Number: 687 Registered: 3-2001 |
f) If you're sitting at a stoplight slightly uphill, don't use the clutch as a brake. | ||
| Lou B (Toby91)
Junior Member Username: Toby91 Post Number: 92 Registered: 4-2001 |
Ferraris aren't made of glass. Drive it, enjoy it, chirp the tires, slide it, power shift. I've put 90000 hard miles on my 3 F-cars including many track events, rallies etc and have never had them break or wear out a clutch. If it happens, you fix it. You enjoy it like it was meant to be enjoyed or your heirs will. You don't want to be lying on your death bed and think that you should have enjoyed you F-car more. Not driving it like Enzo intended it like having a beautiful Italian mistress you only hold hands with, if you get what I mean. | ||
| Mitch Alsup (Mitch_alsup)
Junior Member Username: Mitch_alsup Post Number: 182 Registered: 4-2002 |
Basically, this boils down into: How can the driver avoid putting power through the clutch when it is in the friction zone. a) Dont' drag race--0.2 seconds just isn't worth it b) blip throttle on downshifts--to match revs c) control throttle on upshifts--to match revs d) don't leave the clutch disengaged to long--adds pressure to the throwout hydraulics--which then begin to leak. e) Try to perform entire shift action without a passenger being able to notice that a shift occured--No rise or droop of nose, no forward or backwards lurch. Smoothness--grasshopper | ||
| Tillman Strahan (Tillman)
Junior Member Username: Tillman Post Number: 79 Registered: 11-2001 |
400GTA/400iA  | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 277 Registered: 4-2002 |
Basically avoid slippage, *especially* where there is an appreciable amount of power (throttle) involved. I am able to start my car rolling w/o using any throttle. Then just try to match engine speeds on any shifts. As I shift fairly gently (to save the tranny - another subject), I end up having to blip on upshifts as well, as the engine has slowed to near idle by the time I have the tranny in the next gear. Heavy throttle, drag racing-type upshifts cause the clutch to disapate large amounts of heat, and thus wear. | ||
| Matt Lemus (Mlemus)
Junior Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 229 Registered: 8-2002 |
Does anyone have any? Short shifting? throttle biping? |