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Craig Dewey (Craigfl)
Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2001 - 11:17 am:   

In case anyone is looking for a source for the Baldwin B253 Oil filter, you can buy them for $8.96 each plus shipping from Lowry Oil Co, (877) 537-6026. Ask for Wayne.
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Posted on Friday, June 29, 2001 - 3:47 am:   

The old copper gasket should be annealed with a small torch (this makes it "compressable" to seal the connection). On my last order of parts from Dennis McCann, I bought a whole bunch for a buck each, the same ones fit all of my drain plugs and the oil-cooler banjo bolts for my GT4, should be the same for later 308's.
david handa (Davehanda)
Posted on Thursday, June 28, 2001 - 5:50 pm:   

David, there is no drawback to punching the hole, so no biggie. I have done it, and it does seem to help. I didn't do it on a friend's Mondial, and there was some spillage of oil. Good idea to keep a couple shop towels under the mounting flange during removal. For those trying to track down the copper washer, they are available from T.Rutlands, or in the alternative, just take it down to your local auto supply store and match it up. You could also just keep reusing the old one, and put a couple wraps of pipe thread tape on it and call it "good".
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Posted on Thursday, June 28, 2001 - 1:03 pm:   

Punching a hole on top just breaks any vacuum that may have been generated in the filter.
david schirmer (David)
Posted on Thursday, June 28, 2001 - 9:46 am:   

I would have to question the idea of punching a hole in your filter. I just unscrew it carefully and remove it. Don't flip it over until you are clear of the car and have it over a drain pan.

I recently switched over to Baldwin filters and they seem to be a well made and well priced filter.

David
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Posted on Thursday, June 28, 2001 - 9:26 am:   

Sml � some comments on your search for 328 engine oil change stuff. If you�re really looking to do more than several oil changes (and maybe a couple of gearbox oil changes), then these are the sources that I�d recommend for the �bulk� supplies:

1. Do a keyword search on �Baldwin� to see the previous oil filter related messages. The Baldwin B253 is the best inverted V8 oil filter value IMHO � better quality than the UFI (at ½ of the UFI �discount� price) and the Fram internals are just really unacceptable (most notably the Anti-Drainback-Valve). (For historical reasons,) Baldwins are available from Truck Parts Supply Stores (not usually Auto Parts Stores) - check the Yellow Pages in your area.

2. Do a keyword search on �Global Metrics� for the message with their contact information. They are the supplier I (still) use for my bulk DIN 7603A Cu sealing washers needs. Here�s a link of the readily available sizes:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=972829&a=10846708&p=51024556

(the 308/328 engine oil and gearbox oil drain/fill plugs all use the 22 x 27 x 1.5 size)

However, for just 1 or 2 filters/washers you�re probably better off getting UFIs from one of the discount F suppliers (e.g., Rutlands, etc.) as Craig suggested.
Craig Dewey (Craigfl)
Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 3:43 pm:   

Sml,

You can try Nick or

You can get the UFI filter from T. Rutlands. They probably can get the copper washers too...
Martin (Miami348ts)
Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 3:31 pm:   

As I said, my mechanic wants $ 8.00 for a can of oil. It takes 13 to fill it up, that is your first $100. The filter is another $25 to $ 50 and then you add the little extra profit margin of the Ferrari dealer to support his Challenge Race Team of 200% and you are at $300 for your oil change.

You can do that yourself or go to any good mechanic. I would not use Jiffy Lube but you can use a good mechanic and just bring him the parts and the oil, pay him $ 50 for the oil change.

I can only recommend to get a mechanic for most work on your car that has experience in working on Ferrari but is not a licensed dealer/repair.
S. Long (Sml)
Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 3:20 pm:   

Thanks for the advice. Where is the best place to get a UFI filter and a bunch of copper washers? Am I correct to assume the oil can be obtained from most "auto stores"? The reason I'm asking is that I too (like Rob) would like to change my oil more than every 3k, but the nearest dealer is >200 miles away (R-Trip) and I heard oil changes for 328 models are a DIYer job. (not to mention the dealer wants ~$300 each time...is this the going rate?)
Martin (Miami348ts)
Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 1:29 pm:   

I have just changed over to Mobile One Synthetic. The same grade that is recommended by Ferrari for my car. Check at the engine for the grade level you are supposed to put in.

I only use Ferrari filters. My mechanic provides these (not a F-dealer) I bring him the oil though. He would charge me $ 8.00 per can and I pay half of that in the store. He makes enough money on me as it is.
Craig Dewey (Craigfl)
Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 11:09 am:   

Sml,

I change my own oil on my 328 and it is very easy. If you do a seach on the old expensivecar.com info, there will be good instructions. The only important things to remember are:

1. Punch a hole in the top of the old filter to drain the excess oil out.
2. Pack the area at the base of the filter with absorbent rags/towels to catch all the spill.
3. I plug the hole in the clutch housing to keep oil out of there too -- just in case.
4. Make sure your drain pan can handle 8 qts of oil.

I have been using Mobile One 20W-50 but will be changing next time to Red Line 20W-50. (I already have Red Line in the diff/gearcase).

Presently I use the UFI filter but with the seal problems I've been hearing about, I will probably use a Baldwin next time.

I see Rob/Norwoods uses 20W-50 oil also but as I consider this, I wonder if 10W-30 wouldn't be better-- especially on tight, lower mileage engines?

P.S. Mine leaves drips on the floor also. If it's coming from the plug (this has been discussed before) because it needs a new copper washer or the old one needs to be annealed before being used again.
Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 10:44 am:   

Umm umm, I just have Norwoods do it. I know they use 20w-50, but I don't know what brand or which oil filter.
S. Long (Sml)
Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 9:50 am:   

Rob, since you change your oil every 1k miles and you have a similar 328 GTS as I do, can you tell me your way of changing oil (DIY, service station, dealer) and if DIY, what is the best way and what filter/oil do you use. Thank you in advance.
SML
Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 9:22 am:   

Just recently after the last oil change mine has been leaking a few drops, but not enough to require putting in new oil. I change the oil every 1k anyway. Next time I take it in I'll have them double check, because it is annoying.
Steven J. Solomon (Solly)
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 11:48 pm:   

Thanks Dan & Drew. Any other places it can commonly leak from besides the oil lines?
Drew Altemara (Drewa)
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 11:44 pm:   

I think its probably worth your while to spend a couple of hours ensuring all the clamps are tight and bolts torqued down. Its not unusual for this to happen especially after replacing oil lines. You try to tighten them enough so they don't leak but not tight enough that they bite into the hose. If no luck I'd live with it.

My experience is that this is in the acceptable, though annoying, range.
Danny R. West (Dan_West348ts)
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 8:53 pm:   

I recently had the oil lines replaced during the major service. After driving the car for two days, I noticed new oil on my garage floor. I took the car back to the place that replaced the oil lines. They said it is common that new oil lines may "back off" after installation. They re-tightned the lines and all is well now. Not a new drop of oil since that visit on my garage floor. I've since driven the car 3,000 miles.

Dan
Steven J. Solomon (Solly)
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 7:49 pm:   

Noticed a few (12-15) light spots of oil on my garage floor after the car was parked for a week. Dealer told me they replaced an oil line after I noticed a light leak before I bought the car in May. He told me not to worry over light spotting, that this was fairly normal. It is a '74 Dino.

Dipstick doesn't even register noticeable loss so there can't be much leaking.

Anyone else have this problem with this or other models? Do I tear the whole thing apart to find a few poor gasket spots or just live with it?
Anonymous
 
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