| Author | Message | ||
| Madferraristi (Madferraristi)
New member Username: Madferraristi Post Number: 27 Registered: 6-2001 |
If you need one, I have a passenger side assembly from a '92 512TR | ||
| Gene Agatep (Gagatep)
Junior Member Username: Gagatep Post Number: 132 Registered: 8-2002 |
For your rear chassis bolt, if it is the one for the subframe - make sure that the bolt/nut is not stripped - if it is stripped then this may be a problem (helicoil repair or oversize this bolt hole and rethread) - if it is not stripped then have it replaced before purchase. DEAL BREAKER - For an out of state car... watch out for smog... get a print out of what the emmission test results are and check if these results will pass the CA standards. Seat belt... negotiate on price.... I'm pretty sure the owner doesn't want to fix this | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 373 Registered: 8-2001 |
Scott: If you are referring to the bolts that hold the sub-frame, then, they are very easily accessible. They just bolt right in, with a nut on the back side. | ||
| Scott Stokes (Desert_trojan)
New member Username: Desert_trojan Post Number: 8 Registered: 11-2002 |
Thanks for all the advice. Does anyone have an answer for my missing right rear chassis bolt question? Will it be easy enough to do myself (is the area accessible)? Are we talking about just screwing in a bolt, or does half the rear end have to be removed to get to it? | ||
| Carl Rose (Carl_rose)
Junior Member Username: Carl_rose Post Number: 56 Registered: 10-2002 |
Just thought I'd add that there are quite a few Testarossas (Testarossi?) in this week's FML. Per my brief perusal several in CA.  Carl | ||
| Martin - Cavallino Motors (Miami348ts)
Advanced Member Username: Miami348ts Post Number: 3495 Registered: 5-2001 |
Ask the members of this board if they are close to the car and if one can take a look for you. You will get an honest opinion and somewhat educated (okay, so you should not ask me ) | ||
| Carl Rose (Carl_rose)
Junior Member Username: Carl_rose Post Number: 51 Registered: 10-2002 |
Hi again, Depends on what you want. As I posted earlier when I was looking for mine, I found a 735mi 328 in Portland - approx 1500mi from home. But I really wanted a low mileage example. Had I been looking for more reasonable mileage (20k) could have found several within 500mi. The more stringent the requirements the fewer the choices; not that that's a bad thing in any way, just something to be cognizant of. Carl | ||
| Carl Rose (Carl_rose)
New member Username: Carl_rose Post Number: 50 Registered: 10-2002 |
Hi again, Depends on what you want. As I posted earlier when I was looking for mine, I found a 735mi 328 in Portland - approx 1500mi from home. But I really wanted a low mileage example. Had I been looking for more reasonable mileage (20k) could have found several within 500mi. The more stingent the requirements the fewer the choices; not that that's a bad thing in any way, just something to be cognizant of. Carl | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 372 Registered: 8-2001 |
If it is a buyer's market, and TRs FOR SALE are plentifull, then why does Scott have to look " ....on the other side of the country"? just a thought!!! | ||
| Carl Rose (Carl_rose)
New member Username: Carl_rose Post Number: 47 Registered: 10-2002 |
Having just purchased my first F-car I was recently in your predicament. The car I was looking at (and ultimately purchased) was advertised as a "perfect" car. It was not. Intermittant starter problem (solenoid), bad thermocouple computer (replaced), and a few other things. Nothing unrepairable, but ultimate negotiated price included fixing of these items. My opinion would be to purchase a "finished" or "sorted" car for your first - don't want to open a potential Pandora's toolbox (and wallet) here. By the car in the condition you want. Missing parts on these cars can be very epensive. Also echo others comments *highly* reccomend you see the car in person prior to spending this much money; as you note, it's a 12-year old car & if you're not buying new need to discover it's flaws. If you're not looking for a unique or low-mileage car, currently it's a buyer's market. Do you have a FML subscription? Carl | ||
| Marc A. Thurston (Btownv12)
New member Username: Btownv12 Post Number: 15 Registered: 11-2002 |
Scott - If you are concerned about not seeing the car - start asking around both independants and authorized dealers (also repair shops) in California. Once I started my search I was surprised at how many people made suggestions where I might find the car. Also I am a newbie and I dont know all the ends and outs about smog issues, but will all out of state cars meet California's smog requirements??? | ||
| BobD (Bobd)
Member Username: Bobd Post Number: 880 Registered: 3-2001 |
Scott, sounds like you're doing all the right things... and you're getting good advice from the posts below. Let me throw in my $00.02. I would strongly recommend spending $300 on a cheap ticket and taking a first-hand look. Seems like a small price to pay for a rather significant investment. Would you marry your wife based merely on positive comments from other people? If it were me, I'd want to see her and spend a little time with her first. IMO. | ||
| Jeff Green (Carguy)
Junior Member Username: Carguy Post Number: 120 Registered: 10-2002 |
Scott...these guys are right on target. I am a "newbie" and bought my TR "unseen" too. The Inspector said my car was a strong runner, in above average condition for the year. The previous owner took tons of pics and even a video of the car driving, idling, starting when cold..etc. He also fax'd me the service records. And lastly, the deal was that I paid half the price, with the other half pending my personal approval once the car was delivered....if okay I would wire-transfer the balance, and the transport driver would then give me the title. If the car was not to my satisfaction, the dealer would send my deposit back, and I would pay transport back to him. No matter how careful you are, at some point somebody has to take a risk and it's usually the buyer. My car is sound mechanically, but pics and video did not tell the whole story. My car is now in pieces as I'm doing a lot of "resto" and detailing. But for the price I paid it's okay. The car runs and drives great, but I'm a fussy person and want things perfect...so.... If you have any questions please email me, I'd be glad to relate my experiences if it would help. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1269 Registered: 1-2001 |
ditto what Dave and Omar said -- IMO you should only pass if the asking price doesn't reflect the $ to fix ($2~3K for the seatbelts; $1~2K for the dash, etc.). Give us the $ numbers (for $30K we'd all buy it -- for $75K I think most of us would question your sanity!) | ||
| DES (Sickspeed)
Member Username: Sickspeed Post Number: 557 Registered: 8-2002 |
Scott, there was a recent thread about the recall of the seat belts for Testarossas... i would concern myself with that, if i were you... Sure, it sounds minor, but should you ever take someone in the car and something unfortunate should happen and you never had those fixed and they found out, there might be a liability issue on your behalf... Just my 2 cents, i'm not attorney (but i'm related to one... ) David, with regards to the seat belt recall issue, you said, "They used to handle it free, and I am aware of friends who have had close to half the cost covered by FNA, even recently"... my question to you is, how come they don't pay for the whole thing...? It's being recalled 'cause they obviously made a mistake, right...? So how can they justify asking you to pay for their err...? Just wondering... | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 375 Registered: 5-2001 |
First off, don't be in a rush. Right now there are LOTS of sellers, and not many buyers. The dealer should be able to assist you in seeing if FNA might fix the seatbelts (safety issue). They used to handle it free, and I am aware of friends who have had close to half the cost covered by FNA, even recently (btw, this is not a cheap fix, easily a couple grand a side). The safest bet would be to have as many of the pressing issues dealt with as part of the sale. That is, the dealer can set a price to fix the niggling problems, then you and the seller factor that into the selling price. Get the stuff fixed, then the car is shipped to you, ready to drive...Here's the rub: If there is a problem with the dealers work, it can be a hassle to get them to make good. Though usually they will tell you to take it to the closest FNA dealer and they will cover the bill. As they say...get it in writing. :-) | ||
| Omar (Auraraptor)
Junior Member Username: Auraraptor Post Number: 130 Registered: 9-2002 |
Many times the seller will have the issues addressed prior to the sale...if not get a quote for how much to correct the errors and deduct that amount from the selling price... ...just my opinion | ||
| Scott Stokes (Desert_trojan)
New member Username: Desert_trojan Post Number: 7 Registered: 11-2002 |
After months of looking for a Testarossa, I finally located a '90 at a reasonable price and had the PPI done at a Ferrari dealer earlier this week. The PPI revealed: 1) "Minor" fluid leak from a CAM seal (tech said it was minor and shouldn't be overly concerned), 2) Brake fluid needs to be replaced, 3) The "mouse" on the passive restraint seat belt system is inoperable - both sides are stuck in the "back" position. Supposedly they can still be used because they are stuck in the "back" position, 4) Right rear chassis bolt is missing - most likely was not replaced at the last major service, 5) Instrument pod is warped at the dashboard- leather needs to be repulled, 6) Luggage belts are missing. My questions are: Are any of these items significant enough to pass on the car? I've never purchased a Ferrari or gone through a PPI, so I don't know how this stacks up against others? I imagine any 12 year old car will have some problems. The tech feels that this TR is better than most of the TR's he has seen. The chassis bolt seems the most critical fix. If the seller won't fix it, will it be easy enough to do myself? Are we talking about just screwing in a bolt, or does half the rear end have to be removed to get to it? Hearing that most Ferrari's leak to some degree, I'm not so concerned with the minor fluid leak. The seal can be replaced at the next major service. Are the seat belts still manually operable if the mouse is stuck in the "back" position? The dealer mentioned that FNA is talking about a recall on the TR seatbelts in the next couple of months. Has anyone heard this? Sorry for rambling on - any help would be appreciated. I'm buying the car sight unseen since it is on the other side of the country. Am I crazy for doing this? I'm anxious to pull the trigger but don't want to make a mistake. Anybody know of a red TR for sale in the Southern California area? |