| Author | Message | ||
| Marcus Mayeux (Mmayeux73)
New member Username: Mmayeux73 Post Number: 21 Registered: 4-2002 |
Thanks Ben for your help! | ||
| Andrew (Mrrou)
Junior Member Username: Mrrou Post Number: 98 Registered: 3-2002 |
Who makes it? It looks pretty good.... | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member Username: Benjet Post Number: 541 Registered: 1-2001 |
Vilamoura2002 is correct. -Ben | ||
| 1989 328 GTS (Vilamoura2002)
Member Username: Vilamoura2002 Post Number: 349 Registered: 9-2001 |
Next to TR, I think is a NSX. Isn't it? | ||
| Andrew (Mrrou)
Junior Member Username: Mrrou Post Number: 84 Registered: 3-2002 |
Ben Lobeinstein this a completly unrelated question to this thread but have any idea what red car is next to your TR? Just wondering | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member Username: Benjet Post Number: 540 Registered: 1-2001 |
Dishwashing liquids are very gentle wax stippers. They remove all the wax you have built up. I don't recommend it for normal use, but it works to remove what layers may be on there, and have been on there for years. I have recently seen a few new car dealers buffing cars/scratches out with something called "color wax" and you guessed it it's a tinted wax product. Guess what happens when you wash them with Dawn? All the blemishes that they were trying to cover show their ugly faces. -Ben | ||
| Marcus Mayeux (Mmayeux73)
New member Username: Mmayeux73 Post Number: 9 Registered: 4-2002 |
Ben, Why Dawn? That does not harm the paint? | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member Username: Benjet Post Number: 537 Registered: 1-2001 |
Bruce, I have and use Zaino religously. He spells out the details so that it can be idiot proof. Bottom line for a First Time user, and I'll say this again and again, the more you prepare your paint/finish (de-oxidize, etc.) the better ANY shine results will be, hence I would add Klasse All-in-one to the following list, but that's just me: 1> Clay Bar (use soapy water as a lubricant) 2> Wash (with Dawn), Dry 3> OPTIONAL Apply Z-5 (with ZFX added), remove, repeat if you want to add more coats 4> Apply Z-2 (with ZFX added), remove, repeat if you want to add more coats 5> OPTIONAL Use Z-6 in between to add even more shine I guess that is too many steps for most people. After you have Zaino on it's only wash (& dry), steps 4 and 5 from above. Which I completed yesterday within an hour on my TR. Here's what it does to my TR:  To me it looks still wet, which is just the way I want it. -Ben | ||
| bruce wellington (Bws88tr)
New member Username: Bws88tr Post Number: 41 Registered: 4-2002 |
BEN CHECK OUT www.zainobros.com then you will see all the ridicoulous steps and items you have to buy.. i agree wash car,clay bar it,and either put a hand glaze for no wax ,or just wax it,,done deal..1 hour.. | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member Username: Benjet Post Number: 536 Registered: 1-2001 |
What is this thing with Zaino and steps? It's a one step thing like all other car finish products, once the car is washed (waxes removed) it's effortlessly simple. Cleaned up the TR and did a coat of it today in under an hour total. -Ben | ||
| Marcus Mayeux (Mmayeux73)
New member Username: Mmayeux73 Post Number: 4 Registered: 4-2002 |
Sorry-did not see the Griot's thread!-little slow today. | ||
| Marcus Mayeux (Mmayeux73)
New member Username: Mmayeux73 Post Number: 3 Registered: 4-2002 |
Here is another good one... <http://www.griotsgarage.com/index.jsp> | ||
| bruce wellington (Bws88tr)
New member Username: Bws88tr Post Number: 31 Registered: 4-2002 |
STEVE RECEIVED THE GRIOTS STUFF YESTERDAY, DID MY CAR UP TODAY..UNREAL LESS STEPS THAN ZAINO,,BETTER THAN ZYMOL...WHAT A SHINE,,THANKS | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Intermediate Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 2313 Registered: 2-2001 |
Robb, I totally agree with you. The less you wash your car the less you will have moisture collecting in those areas,crevices, you cannot reach to dry. Eventually those areas will rust because even though you think your car is rust proof think again. Especially the older Ferraris. | ||
| Robb Good (Robbgood)
New member Username: Robbgood Post Number: 10 Registered: 11-2001 |
My 308 NEVER sees water. No rain. No hose washing. I only use Meguiars #7 glaze. Very oily but picks up the dust and leaves an awesome shine. No scratches. I have used it for years and would not think of using anything else. The car gets a twice montly wipe down with #7 and that's all she needs. And the stuff is very reasonably priced and easy to get. | ||
| Tim N (Timn88)
Member Username: Timn88 Post Number: 687 Registered: 6-2001 |
You are supposed to use dish soap to periodically take off all the wax, clay bar the paint, then glaze then wax i though. | ||
| Chris Richardson (Boozy)
Junior Member Username: Boozy Post Number: 130 Registered: 11-2001 |
A couple more comments: wm_hart mentioned some people say don'e use soap. That is a bad idea. You definitely do not want to use dish soap. Only use car wash soap that is made specifically to wash cars. Those commericals where Dawn gets grease out of your way: it does the same thing to wax. You DO want to use car wash (not soap...) because it is a lubricant to help you remove the dirt with less paint contact. I don't really like those california car dusters either because it is better to lubricate your dirt with water and car wash to remove it. It is true that a lot of what you pay for is hype, but the only products available with a high level of carnauba content are expensive. You can't go wrong with a product that lists at least 30% total carnauba content. True carnauba wax just gives an unmatched shine and depth. I have tried Liquitech products. I like all their products that i've used so far. I have not yet used the Finish First auto polish (again, not a true polish.) I don't think I am going to use it. From what I know it is the same as the other polymer products and they aren't as good as a good carnauba product in my opinion. For those of you using Turtle Wax or other such waxes you owe it to yourself to try something better. At least get the Mother's cleaner wax with carnauba from Trak Auto. VERY good for a lower priced wax. The cheaper stuff required more effort to apply and buff and does not shine or protect as well. You can tell I spend too much time on this stuff but you should see my paint! It's like wet glass! | ||
| Clark Driggers (Clark)
New member Username: Clark Post Number: 31 Registered: 11-2001 |
Zymol makes a wax for Ferrai, called "Ital". It is supposed to be for soft Italian paint. Hipe or not I used it and it was the best finish I have ever seen on my car. Visit their website and read up on it. You can noy buy 100% carnauba, the most is about 50-60% and it is hard not wet. You put it in the palm of your hand to melt it than apply with your hand. I won Platinum Concours and a Coppa Bella award after a coat of Ital by Zymol. | ||
| Ken (Allyn)
Member Username: Allyn Post Number: 292 Registered: 10-2001 |
Some thoughts. Car paint is not designed to last forever. With time, the outer surface dries and this 'dead paint' needs to be wiped away to get the maximum shine. Over time, the more you shine your car, the more of this micoscopic layer gets cleaned away. Eventually, you get a very thin paint layer that will no longer looks nice. OTOH, a good wax protests the paint too. If you never wax your car, it will last longer but look bad from being dull, not to mention environmental damage from bird poop that a wax will help prevent. From what I understand, older Ferrari paint in general was not the best quality to begin with, so if you have an older car and wax it a lot, it wouldn't be a terrible thing to eventually get it repainted to restore the car's look, or maybe even enhance it. This *shouldn't* detract from its value any more than putting new tires and hoses on it would. | ||
| Bill Sawyer (Wsawyer)
Junior Member Username: Wsawyer Post Number: 69 Registered: 2-2002 |
Excellent stuff Ernie! I also spoke at length to a chemist who made car care products several years ago when we were looking into creating our own line. He had an interesting comment on carnauba wax. Because carnauba wax is a natural product he felt that it varies greatly in quality depending on the year in which it is sourced. He likened it to wine. Some years are better than others. At the low end of the spectrum all products are pretty much the same. In fact, you can go to the chemical distributors and ask for a "liquid car wax" or a "paste car wax" or a "paint sealant" and they have on-the-shelf formulations already made up. for a company that follows that route (and we weren't one of them) all that differs is the packaging and the marketing. | ||
| Ernie Bonilla (Ernie)
Member Username: Ernie Post Number: 264 Registered: 11-2001 |
I once talked to a guy that manufactures car waxxes that he sells to professional detailers. What he told me was very interesting. As best I can remember, he said that pure carnuba wax is natural and the best to use on the paint. The residue you see when the wax "dries" is not the wax. That is the chemical addatives the manufactures put in the wax to make it cure faster. Hence when you buy the liquid applications they "shake well be for using". This is to get the chemicals mixxed in better. As far as aplying it, yes you aply in the dirrection of the wind, back and forth, not circular. Also another application should be put on about 3-5 day later depending on weather. This is in order that the first coat have plenty of time to cure, so that when you apply the second coat you remove as little of the first coat as possible. This gives you a very good layer protection on the paint. He also showed me the pure carnuba he buys in bulk. It comes in a solid block, and it was wet to the touch. When pure carnuba is put on the paint is doesn't leave that white residue on the paint. Actually it looks wet, cause it doesn't get dried out by the chemicals. After it is applied all you need to do is just buff in your shine, cause you don't need to wait for the chemicals to dry. Someone mentioned wiping off the wax when still wet. That is a good idea if you are using waxxes with the chemicals added to them. This gives the chemical addatives less of a chance to adhere to the paint. Remember they are used to "dry out" the wax faster. So when they are on your paint they are also "drying out" your paint faster, causing it to age prematurely over time. Another reason to apply a "small" amount to the application pad. So that is my two cents worth from what I remember. | ||
| Pascal A. J. Maeter (Maeter)
New member Username: Maeter Post Number: 12 Registered: 11-2001 |
Meguiars now has an European web site which should be able to ship to all of Europe. Their site is http://www.meguiars.co.uk/ | ||
| Norm Plaistowe (Normp)
New member Username: Normp Post Number: 17 Registered: 11-2001 |
There are several posts here that talk about the amount of time/number of steps it takes to use Zaino Bros, I have to agree it does take a quite a while but the results are great. Once the job is done, it only take a few minutes to touch it up and get the shine back. And let's be honest guys, you're out there in the garage any way looking at the car so why not make good use of your time....Norm | ||
| Bill Sawyer (Wsawyer)
Junior Member Username: Wsawyer Post Number: 67 Registered: 2-2002 |
I think you can still get Klasse products through the Herrington catalog. | ||
| 1989 328 GTS (Vilamoura2002)
Member Username: Vilamoura2002 Post Number: 315 Registered: 9-2001 |
Greg, that is very nice of you. I tried to buy the Klasse Concours Kit. If they don't have it, I would like any of those kits with gold class wax and polish. Tks very much for your help | ||
| Greg Owens (Owens84qv)
Member Username: Owens84qv Post Number: 288 Registered: 10-2001 |
Vilamoura, let me know what you are looking for and I'll try to find it. I was actually going to go the the auto store and find some of teh Meguiars Gold Class wax. Anything for you? | ||
| 1989 328 GTS (Vilamoura2002)
Member Username: Vilamoura2002 Post Number: 312 Registered: 9-2001 |
I tried to buy some Meguiar products but they do not send to Europe :-(((( | ||
| Sinclair Mudaly (98ttsupra)
New member Username: 98ttsupra Post Number: 6 Registered: 4-2002 |
Zaino gets my vote! | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Intermediate Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 2273 Registered: 2-2001 |
I think Meguiars products are the best for the money and give the best professional results without a lot of unnecessary steps. | ||
| bruce wellington (Bws88tr)
New member Username: Bws88tr Post Number: 24 Registered: 4-2002 |
joel your right about zaino,,its an excellent product but by the time your done with all their steps, you will become a grandfather..some people dont have the patience for that...... | ||
| wm hart (Whart)
Junior Member Username: Whart Post Number: 197 Registered: 12-2001 |
Willis: i didn't realize your 360 was black; i like the car in black best, cause it does much to diminish the awkwardness of the short nose with those big nostrils, and generally adds a sinister aspect to the car. | ||
| Bob Campen (Bob308gts)
Junior Member Username: Bob308gts Post Number: 106 Registered: 9-2001 |
I have a friend that's an artist with a buffer, uses all Wizard compounds and Griots wax. On his own show cars they normally need repainting after 3 years, he just loves to polish his cars. | ||
| Joel White (Joel)
New member Username: Joel Post Number: 1 Registered: 4-2002 |
I did a lot of searching and reading about this myself. If you head over to http://www.corvetteforum.com/ and check the C5 forum section, these guys have some strong feeling on waxes/polishes. There seems to be a great deal of knowledge on the sumject there as well. Seems like the product of choice is 'Zaino' and it isnt cheap (~ $80 starter kit) but everyone who has used it swears by it. If you search for it there you will get a great deal of info. Also another product by the name of 'formula113' Also check out the Zaino web site, some great info on detailing a car in general. for whats it's worth Joel | ||
| Aaron Marks (Aaronb)
New member Username: Aaronb Post Number: 20 Registered: 1-2002 |
Anybody here had luck with Liquitech? | ||
| Willis Huang (Willis360)
Member Username: Willis360 Post Number: 607 Registered: 8-2001 |
Black cars are really difficult to keep clean. I've nearly given up trying. My 360 would be totally clean for about 5 minutes after it's washed and waxed. Under midday sunshine, the car looks pretty scratchy after it's been driven for a while. Under cloudy sky or at night, the car's perfect. | ||
| BobD (Bobd)
Member Username: Bobd Post Number: 350 Registered: 3-2001 |
Jim, I'll bring the Tortoise wax. If we rub hard enough, I'll bet we can get that top back to black!!! | ||
| wm hart (Whart)
Junior Member Username: Whart Post Number: 196 Registered: 12-2001 |
Agree with Chris Richardson. Its the Hippocratic oath: first do no harm. Every time you touch your paint with anything, you do some kind of damage. Old school types refused to wash their cars at all, or when they did so, only with water, no soap. Obviously, that's unrealistic. Also, i love working on the aesthetics of my cars, but if you ever look closely at your paint under intense lighting, you will see alot of nasties, and i don't think you can get those out by hand rubbing. And, i would not put a machine to my cars; i have seen some pretty impressive work done by professionals using machines, compounding, etc. but i never had the guts to put my ferraris through that. Unfortunately, the manufacturer will itself damage the paint, its U.S. sub, preping the car may, the dealer may, all before you get your hands on it (and that's a new car, forget about one that's seen other hands). When i took delivery of my current F car (which is black), i insisted that the dealer not wash, wax or detail it. I had that done by the Paterak Bros. in N.J> who did polish and wax the car, entirely by hand. I have washed it a few times since, using a very mild car soap and clean terry towels, and use a big air compressor to get most of the water off. | ||
| Jim E (Jimpo1)
Member Username: Jimpo1 Post Number: 328 Registered: 7-2001 |
Hey Bob, at Dyno day will you wax my car and show me how well your wax works? | ||
| BobD (Bobd)
Member Username: Bobd Post Number: 344 Registered: 3-2001 |
I use Meguiar's Gold and I'll put my car's shine up against anyone's. I personally believe there's a perception out there that if you pay $45 for a wax product, it must be the best thing ever invented. IMHO, this is pure hype and BS. Besides, waxing adds some luster and protection but it's the quality of the paint that really makes the car stand out. | ||
| bruce wellington (Bws88tr)
New member Username: Bws88tr Post Number: 20 Registered: 4-2002 |
god,,look what i started here with all these debates over waxes and polishes... i think ill go back to my original waxes i have used on my 100k testarossa....either turtle wax or raindance  | ||
| Greg Owens (Owens84qv)
Member Username: Owens84qv Post Number: 282 Registered: 10-2001 |
Chris, I read a tip on here a while back about Zymol in that you shouldn't let it dry. Once you've applied Zymol to your car, let it sit for less than a minute and polish it off while it's still somewhat wet. The improvement is amazing. | ||
| Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Member Username: Irfgt Post Number: 965 Registered: 2-2001 |
I have always wondered, what is the difference in waxing a fiberglass body versus a metal body. You are waxing the paint, not the material the car is made of. If it is a gel coat finish such as a boat would have I can see a difference, but on a painted finish I believe the ads are a bunch of crap. | ||
| Randy (Schatten)
Member Username: Schatten Post Number: 264 Registered: 4-2001 |
www.zainobros.com =) | ||
| Chris Richardson (Boozy)
Junior Member Username: Boozy Post Number: 127 Registered: 11-2001 |
You guys keep talking about polishes. You need to understand that a polish IS AN ABRASIVE. You will remove paint (actually clear) with a polish. Polishing is best left to the professionals. Only polish when absolutely necessary to remove scratches. You only have so much clear. Some of you with older Ferraris (even my 1994 348) have single stage paint and you are removing paint every time you polish. Don't wax too often either. Any time you wax you are making contact with the paint that can produce swirl marks. Wax only as often as is necessary to keep the shine and bead. I don't let my Ferrari see rain so I only need to wax maybe every 6 months. The best waxing products in my opinion are Zymol and Pinnnacle's Souveran. For a great budget wax get Mother's Cleaner wax with Carnauba. For those of you putting multiple coats of wax on you are wasting your time. The second coat removes the first. Polymers are supposedly different. I don't trust them. Another tip: don't let your wax dry (I know the package says to.) It just makes you work harder to get it off and requires more contact with the paint. It works just as well to let it almost dry and buff it out. | ||
| Scott A. B. Collins (Scott)
New member Username: Scott Post Number: 32 Registered: 6-2001 |
The guy who does all of the Ferrari bodywork in Portland, OR thinks the world of Meguiar's Gold Class Stuff. His opinion is that other stuff isn't worth the premium, and if you are putting the stuff on frequently, issues such as durability aren't as big a deal. Once I get the swirl marks taken care of, my care is going to be Meguiar's Gold Classed, with a top coat of Pinnacle, using Griot's detail spray as needed. God, just what I needed, something else to obsess about. | ||
| Eric Vartanian (Evartanian)
New member Username: Evartanian Post Number: 8 Registered: 3-2002 |
Tim, funny you mention the smell, because I remember reading somewhere that these companies take the scent very seriously as a competitive tool to attract customers. I am not sure how many of you knew this, but I guess it is quite logical. Another thing is that not many of you have talked much about Meguiar's. I have been using Meguiar's products for quite some time now on all my cars, but not yet the 355 because it's not ready yet; but I am wondering what you guys think of it. It has kept me satisfied, but I am wondering if it is really very good. I don't have much experience with any other products so I don't have much to compare it to. I guess I have noted that the wax (I use the Gold Class Paste) is somewhat hard to remove, but the results are great and it seems to last. I would just like to hear what you guys have to say about Meguiar's and if you think I should perhaps try something else as a result of your own experience. Should I use it on the 355, or should I try something new. All and any feedback appreciated. Thanks. -Eric | ||
| Tim Gendreau (Tim)
Junior Member Username: Tim Post Number: 54 Registered: 3-2002 |
I have done some looking around, seen side by side comparisons on all of them. what I have come up with is use something good, and it does not matter which one, zymol, griots, zaino, mcguires, etc. just use a good quality like these, wash with Dawn to strip old wax then polish it, then wax it, use an instant detailer in between and you will love. dont get hung up on one product over the other there really is not that much difference when you compare all the good products to each other. easy on easy off is also important to me. I have all the above mentioned products, mcguires seems to be a little more difficult to remove some of their products than the others but the results are the same. benefit to zaino? it smells nice and comes of easy. | ||
| Scott A. B. Collins (Scott)
New member Username: Scott Post Number: 30 Registered: 6-2001 |
I have found two web sites to be excellent resources. One (www.autopia-carcare.com) has excellent forums that discuss the pros/cons of the products mentioned below, as well as many more. The other (www.carcarespecialties.com) has a great "how to" articles section, that will review the basics very well. A few additional thoughts to below. 1) For the initial prep, wash you car with some gnarly stong dishwashing soap (liquid). The goal for this step is to strip any remaining vestiges of previous waxes, etc. After that, and for maintanence, use a very, very small amount of some quality auto wash (like 1/2 capfull in 2-3 gallons of water). 2) Rinse the car meticulously before washing--any grit/dirt left on the surface can scratch. 3) Be very picky about what touches your paint. Certain microfiber cloths and 100% cotton seem to be the top choices. Anything with polyester (even cotton towels with polyester stitching at the edges) can scratch. I have had good luck with Blitz One Grand (wax). It has much better weather persistence than Zymol in my hands, and has worked well on my daily driver BMW. For my Ferrari, which will be mostly garaged, I am considering Pinnacle versus other waxes. Some have the opinion that while the polymer systems (Zaino, Klasse, Blackfire) are tougher, you end up rubbing them off with frequent waxing and polishing out of fine scratches, so the benefits of longer life are somewhat lost. If you are going to wash and detail your car every couple weeks, my thinking is a wax might be better. If you will be less meticulous, I would consider something like Zaino, with perhaps a top coat of a quality wax. | ||
| Mitch P (Mitchp)
New member Username: Mitchp Post Number: 3 Registered: 1-2002 |
I too have had excellent results with Griot's products | ||
| Eric Eiland (Eric308gtsiqv)
Junior Member Username: Eric308gtsiqv Post Number: 242 Registered: 11-2001 |
Same here, ELI...I mainly use Griot's polish and wax products. | ||
| ELI (Titanium360)
New member Username: Titanium360 Post Number: 3 Registered: 4-2002 |
I have had nothing but good results with Grito's products. | ||
| bruce wellington (Bws88tr)
New member Username: Bws88tr Post Number: 16 Registered: 4-2002 |
brian thank you for the website address bruce | ||
| bruce wellington (Bws88tr)
New member Username: Bws88tr Post Number: 14 Registered: 4-2002 |
harlon- what i said is that zymol worked well on my corvettes,(which are all fiberglass bodies), i didnt say that zymol is the best for fiberglass bodies,,,thats why im conducting a survey as to which ferrari owner here has had the best luck with their choice.. what do you use harlon, and why??.. thank you.. bruce | ||
| Harlan Mott (Hmott3)
Junior Member Username: Hmott3 Post Number: 93 Registered: 12-2001 |
Ok, my question is: why would zymol be better on a fiberglass car than an aluminum car (or any other for that matter)? I can see saying Zymol works best on clear coated cars, or non-clear coated cars, but how can whats under the paint make any differenct at all? I just don't see the reasoning behind this am I missing something? You are working on paint, and paint on steal has the same properties as paint on plastic, or paint on glass. If you like Zymol for your vettes I see no reason you shouldn't get the exact same results on your TR. | ||
| Brian Kennedy (Kennedy)
New member Username: Kennedy Post Number: 33 Registered: 3-2002 |
I think the place to get the stuff is CMA (http://www.properautocare.com/). Oft-recommended is the Klasse Concours Kit (http://www.properautocare.com/klasconkit.html) for $40. And Ben, as I said... there are two camps. ;^) | ||
| bruce wellington (Bws88tr)
New member Username: Bws88tr Post Number: 13 Registered: 4-2002 |
brian--thank you for your imformative explanation and to the rest of you nice gentleman as answers to my question.. where do you find classe ?? i have never seen it in stores.. as to ken-- zymol works unreal on fiberglass bodies.. as to dustin-- i have tried pinnacle and it breaks off as i wipe it..spend more time cleaning what i cleaned than driving the car... | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member Username: Benjet Post Number: 524 Registered: 1-2001 |
Brian, Zaino over Klasse AIO is the way to go. Nothing else even comes close. -Ben | ||
| David Jones (Dave)
Junior Member Username: Dave Post Number: 92 Registered: 4-2001 |
William is correct, You first polish your car, that is what makes it shine... You must then protect the polished finish from stuff like bird dukie with a wax or other protectant. | ||
| Ken (Allyn)
Member Username: Allyn Post Number: 281 Registered: 10-2001 |
I tried Nu Finish (polymer) once and it was bad. Very abrasive and not a great shine. | ||
| Brian Kennedy (Kennedy)
New member Username: Kennedy Post Number: 31 Registered: 3-2002 |
Zymol gives a good shine, but doesn't last too long. If you'd rather be driving than waxing, I'd definitely recommend other alternatives. Based on generating lively debate among the detailing *nuts* out on the internet, I've found there are two products of choice... basically in two camps. Both are acrylic polymers, as opposed to waxes. The two? Zaino and Klasse. The Klasse approach is simpler (fewer steps), and thus my choice. Wash the car. Any quality car wash will do... I use Meguiar's HiTech Car Wash in the tan bottle. Use a sponge in bucket of soapy water. Dry with a Water Bandit and cotton Fieldcrest towel. Apply Klasse AIO (All-In-One). Dampen foam pad (with either water or Meguiar's Final Inspection) and squeeze it dry. Use very little AIO... very little... maybe an ounce total for the whole car. Apply back and forth in direction of air flow (not in circles). Buff out with microfibre towel. Optionally repeat... but its just to ensure coverage. No need to wait after this step. Apply Klasse SG. Apply very little on a dry foam pad (about a nickel-sized spot will cover the car hood; the more you put on, the harder it is to buff off). Let it dry 20 minutes. Buff out. You'll want 2-3 coats... some recommend a day between applications so that each coat has time to fully "cure". Done. Repeat within six months. Additional notes: You can optionally apply Blitz wax on top of the above to give a deeper shine. If your car is older, it may be time to use clay (between washing and AIO) to get the car really clean. They test this way: run a finger along the paint... it should be smooth as glass... to increase sensitivity, put a plastic baggie over your finger and run it along the paint (amazing what you'll feel). It made a big difference on my cars. If you have swirl marks or clear coat scratches, the 3M products are the choice. That step also goes before the AIO step. Enjoy, Brian | ||
| Dustin (69912)
New member Username: 69912 Post Number: 8 Registered: 3-2002 |
I use Pinnacle Souveran: http://www.properautocare.com/pin-312.html I've been using this stuff about 2 years now, I love it! | ||
| wm hart (Whart)
Junior Member Username: Whart Post Number: 190 Registered: 12-2001 |
There is a big difference between using a polish and a wax since they do different things. I would not polish paint without then protecting it afterwards with a wax. I have used alot of the high end products, and frankly, i don't think the brands matter so much as the correct application. | ||
| William Huber (Solipsist)
Junior Member Username: Solipsist Post Number: 241 Registered: 9-2001 |
I use BUTERWAX by CAR BRITE. Has anyone else used this product? | ||
| Warren Dodge (Spiderman)
New member Username: Spiderman Post Number: 9 Registered: 11-2001 |
I use Zymol and it is fantastic. | ||
| Ken (Allyn)
Member Username: Allyn Post Number: 280 Registered: 10-2001 |
I like Rain Dance but it doesn't last very long. I think I'll try Zymol since my car is fiberglass and you say it workes well on your Vette. | ||
| bruce wellington (Bws88tr)
New member Username: Bws88tr Post Number: 12 Registered: 4-2002 |
i have been using zymol car wax on my corvettes for years and loved it-perfect for fiberglass bodies..just bought a 88 TR and my buddy down the street who owns a 85 tr says he doesnt use a wax,to much of a build up/residue..he said he uses 3M HAND GLAZE POLISH AND SAID HE LOVES IT? ANY INSIGHT AS TO WHAT YOU GUYS USE AND WHY, ZYMOL,MOTHERS,PINNACLE,BLUE CORAL,,??,THANK YOU.. |