| Author | Message | ||
| Brian Kennedy (Kennedy)
Junior Member Username: Kennedy Post Number: 184 Registered: 3-2002 |
Well, I'm going to try having the radiator vacuum flushed today... and if the rain holds back, I'll try it at the track tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I might look into getting a fan for the oil cooler. Thanks for the suggestions... any other suggestions are welcome. | ||
| James Glickenhaus (Napolis)
Member Username: Napolis Post Number: 593 Registered: 10-2002 |
Brian I thought you were talking about water temp. 240 oil wouldn't bother me. In my offshore cigarette oil temp synthetic gets to 280. My engines have run over 300 hours which is a lot for a marine high output engine with these oil temps. Removing thermostats without adding restrictor plates can cause problems and in certian systems water wetter can cause cavitation as well. It did in my Lola. A larger oil cooler is an idea as is an oil cooler fan. I've used small motorcycle fans on oil coolers. If you look on Lola thread you'll see one on the left side oil cooler in rear. William That's my goal. To restage LeMans 67. You've probably seen my MK-IV at WWOC. If not search the forum there are several photos. Best Jim | ||
| William H (Countachxx)
Intermediate Member Username: Countachxx Post Number: 1975 Registered: 2-2001 |
Dam Jim, You have a GT-40 too?!?!?!?! Let me know if your cars ever need a workout or if you want to race the P4 against the GT40  | ||
| James J. McGee (Dr_ferrari)
New member Username: Dr_ferrari Post Number: 23 Registered: 7-2002 |
True rob, same was done for the 360 challenge. maybe a good improvement if brian is going to track the car alot. regards, Jim | ||
| James J. McGee (Dr_ferrari)
New member Username: Dr_ferrari Post Number: 22 Registered: 7-2002 |
Brian, One other thing I would check would be the oil level when it is hot, too high, too low? Incorrect oil level in track conditions, can cause higher than normal temps. If your water temp is normal, I would believe the problem exists with the cooling of the oil somewhere. Check your oil cooler, lines, and ducting. Best regards, Jim | ||
| Rob Schermerhorn (Rexrcr)
Junior Member Username: Rexrcr Post Number: 243 Registered: 11-2002 |
Regarding high speed air flow, we found in 348 Challenge that we had to run the cooling fans all the time and improve the radiator exit in the wheel wells by removing the fiberglass louvers and replacing with open screening. | ||
| Rob Schermerhorn (Rexrcr)
Junior Member Username: Rexrcr Post Number: 242 Registered: 11-2002 |
The simplest way to increase the cooling capacity of your car, depending upon climate, is increase the % of distilled water in the system as water has greater specific heat capacity than anti freeze. I recommend no more than 15% anti-freeze if you're in a warm climate. This will give your engine water pump lubrication protection. Cavitation is normally a design or manufacturing issue. I don't think you can cause it from running Water Wetter. You can cause it by removing your thermostat thinking the restriction is causing overheating. The restriction is carefully designed into the system, as you can run coolant too fast, which causes cavitation. IMHO, 240oF on synthetic oil is hot, but not hot enough to hurt, even long term. I would be concerned if it occurred anywhere other then the track though. | ||
| Dave (Maranelloman)
Member Username: Maranelloman Post Number: 773 Registered: 1-2002 |
Brian, please refresh me: where does the red zone for oil temp begin on the 360?? Thanks! | ||
| Brian Kennedy (Kennedy)
Junior Member Username: Kennedy Post Number: 181 Registered: 3-2002 |
Thanks for the suggestions. Gear selection definitely has an effect on how quickly it gets up there... and I was less conservative than I normally have to be (the Challenge grille and cool day helped). But I was still shifting at 7500 on the straights (not redline) and took almost all of the longer corners in higher gear than ideal (for example, I normally take Big Bend in 5th, though its faster to take it in 4th... but that leaves you running above 6k a lot longer... I did take it in 4th twice today). Do you guys not take your cars to redline? (In my M3, I redline every shift; in my 360, I rarely get within 1000rpm of redline.) But maybe I'm expecting too much... I thought a Ferrari with 8500 redline should happily run 5500-7500 rpm all day. Not true? Radiators are clean. Water temperature remains normal. In fact, today it was running cool, being a cool day. The water temp has never gotten high... just the oil temp. Yes, the radiator has the standard mix in there. Taking it to another place isn't much of an option, as there aren't a lot of places I'd trust messing with my Ferrari that are within 200 miles. I may ask them to flush and refill the radiator and system in hope that there's some sort of clog or air pocket that might get flushed. Other suggestions are welcome! | ||
| James Glickenhaus (Napolis)
Member Username: Napolis Post Number: 591 Registered: 10-2002 |
Brian IMHO something's wrong. At Daytona with most of the rad taped off at a cont 9000 the NASCAR boys were running 220. At LeMans my MK-IV needed cardboard rad blanking to keep water above 200. At speed none of my F cars run hot. I'd try it without wetter. Wetter is a mixed bag. Some times the water moves too fast to transfer heat. It can also cause cavitation in the WP. I'd look for encapuslated air as well. Are you sure your Bled? Best Jim | ||
| William H (Countachxx)
Intermediate Member Username: Countachxx Post Number: 1974 Registered: 2-2001 |
check all your hose clamps, I had 1 slip once & overheated all over the place | ||
| Ben Cannon (Artherd)
Junior Member Username: Artherd Post Number: 159 Registered: 6-2002 |
Brian- on road courses, most cars should not have any trouble (especially this time of year) as there's engouh airflow to counteract the high-power output I'd still very much suspect the cooling system. Something got missed. There may be air in the system, etc. I would take it somewhere else, and get a complete second opinion. I've never seen a 360 get that hot at the track. PS: you're running 50/50 af/water right? Best! Ben. | ||
| William H (Countachxx)
Intermediate Member Username: Countachxx Post Number: 1972 Registered: 2-2001 |
are you talking about oil or water temp? Both my 308QV & 512TR ran their oil very hot, 240+ then I installed a cooling fan behind the oil cooler & it runs much cooler now, the oil cooler fan comes on when the radiator fans do. you can also run a manual switch. If its water, you can install better bigger race radiators , or how about upgrading to a 360GT front bumper with bigger openings? . The shop building my 512Tr race car said the original radiators looked like they might be enough to cool a moped Ive never had trouble with the water temp though, those cheese graters come in handy for some things | ||
| Dave (Maranelloman)
Member Username: Maranelloman Post Number: 772 Registered: 1-2002 |
Brian, we can (hopefully) discuss this on the 7th...but it might have to do with gear selection? Are you spending a lot of time at or near the top of the RPM range in each gear? If that's not it, perhaps your radiators are full of bugs or gravel?? Normally, on cool days like this, you really shouldn't be getting those high temps unless one of these 2 things is happening. IMO, of course... | ||
| Brian Kennedy (Kennedy)
Junior Member Username: Kennedy Post Number: 179 Registered: 3-2002 |
I continue to have engine temperature problems with my 360 on the track. I just got a Challenge Grille, and it helped, but I still got over 240'F. Fresh synthetic oil... mechanic sees no issue in the cooling system... I even have Water Wetter in it. The temp sensor and gauge were calibrated. Anyway, I was wondering what temperature your 360's run when on the track? Thanks. |