| Author |
Message |
rich (Dino2400)
Junior Member
Username: Dino2400
Post Number: 212
Registered: 10-2001
| | Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 11:10 am: | |
$20-28k rebuild? That's crazy. It's only a V6!
I had $1500 in machining which included repairing some damage to one combustion chamber from a snapped valve, and enlarging the seats for the bigger valves I used, preparing the block for the new pistons, drilling out the crank galley plugs and cleaning it, and of course balancing the rods, flywheel, everything. My crank was in spec so didn't need any work (that would have added $500).
I also spent about $2500 in parts. Parts included forged high comp pistons, bigger valves, new springs, new guides, new bearings everywhere, new clutch, pressure plate, cam chains, gasket set, etc. I didn't get new cams but you can get new "street performance" cams from superformance.co.uk for about $1000. If you need your water pump rebuilt, add in $150. New oil pump gears are $350. So let's call it $2500 to $4000 in parts, depending on what you need/want.
Now let's talk labor. Removing the engine, complete disassembly, and washing everything in the parts washer before dropping it off at the maching shop took me less than 8hrs. Build up of the engine took my buddy and I (mostly him since he's the pro) probably about 15 hrs. over two days. We were goofing off and drinking beer and so on though. It took another 90 minutes to drop the engine/tranny back in the car and then say 4-5 more hours hooking everything up (hoses, fuel lines, etc.) and setting timing and balancing carbs (done later of course but part of the job in my opinion). That's about 30 hours, by amateurs without time saving factory tools.
So in my humble opinion, any real mechanic who quotes more than 30 hours of labor for the whole project doesn't know what they are doing and should be avoided. Ok, maybe I should say 35 hours because there may be 5hours of added difficulty since 206/246 are mid-mounted instead of the more straightforward front-mounting of my car. Then let's let them pad it a bit more and call it 40 hours of labor. At say $100/hr?
So we have:
Machining - $1500-2000
Parts - $2500-4000
Labor - $4000
Total: $8000 - $10,000
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Also, remember that new parts are available for this car. So if your mechanic wants to quote you $1000 to rebuild your carbs, for example, remember you can buy three new ones for that price (or even go up in size to 42 or 44 for a bit more) and sell the ones needing rebuild for $500 or more easily. If your dealer wants to charge you $500 for a distributor cap, order one from Dennis McCann (allferrariparts.com) for $140 instead. Plug wires? NGK are better than original and cost $40. Distributor rebuild? $125 plus parts. A new distributor will run you $1000 though.
I guess what I'm trying to say is that the Dino engine is really not that expensive to take care of. |
Jordan (Jhl1963)
New member
Username: Jhl1963
Post Number: 11
Registered: 6-2002
| | Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 8:53 am: | |
Sorry if this is sort of off topic, however in forza they list a rebuild price for the engine of $20-28 or so...is this accurate?
Thanks,
Jordan |
James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member
Username: Jselevan
Post Number: 526
Registered: 6-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 10:31 pm: | |
Adrian - depending upon recent service records and whether a trusted soul did the work, the only really critical issue, in my opinion, is to make sure that the heads have been re-torqued somewhere along the line, AND, MOST IMPORTANT, that the valve shims have been replaced/adjusted to factory spec clearances. Also that the shims are not "dished" or worn. The Achilles heel of the Dino engine is the top end - cam lobe wear due to shim wear. It is a pain in the rosey red rectum (I'm into alliteration), but removing valve covers and checking and replacing these shims is something I would do. At the same time, adjust chain tension. When doing any major work on the car, modify the chain tensioners with a "stop" screw. When you are ready to do this, let me or one of the real experts help you through the process.
Since you do not have to remove the cams to change/adjust shim clearance, retorqueing the head may or may not be indicated if previously done.
Jim S. |
rich (Dino2400)
Junior Member
Username: Dino2400
Post Number: 211
Registered: 10-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 9:44 pm: | |
The switch to continue running the car (off coil and points only) when the dinoplex fails is a nice touch. Shows you how much they trusted this equipment, ha!
I had the dinoplex die on my car once and drove for about 1000 miles on just coil and points (had to install a resistor inline from the tach wire to tach to get it to work without the dinoplex), and didn't notice any difference at all in normal driving. Might have noticed a difference up at very high rpms though. And the dinoplex does supposedly keep the plugs from fouling at lower rpms, like around town (this is the real reason they developed it, they say). I replaced with an MSD unit and coil. But you can get superformance.co.uk to put new guts in an old case and send it to you so you'll still look stock. Not important on my fiat dino but is on a car of value like the 206 or 246. |
Steven J. Solomon (Solly)
Member
Username: Solly
Post Number: 468
Registered: 6-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 6:31 pm: | |
Adrian-
Change the "wonderful" (it was so wonderful they installed a manual bypass to the ignition-look for a little button on the rear right of the motor) to an uprated, modern electronic ignition. There are a few made to fit into the original dinoplex box. I did that, but kept the points rather than going to an optical/magnetic induction system just so I could get home if everything failed. Get a new coil as well.
Other than that, chain tension and all the other stuff mentioned above. They really are very durable, strong engines when well maintained. Remember: NO SYNTHETIC OIL or it will leak like a sieve. Normal oil oozing is normal. I lost 1/2 quart over the 6 months it sat in the garage this winter. ENJOY!!! |
william speer (Wspeer)
Junior Member
Username: Wspeer
Post Number: 246
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Friday, May 02, 2003 - 7:26 pm: | |
with the picture on the computer, resize it so it will load up. if you can't get it to work, you can email them to me. |
adrian low (Audionut)
New member
Username: Audionut
Post Number: 40
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Friday, May 02, 2003 - 7:17 pm: | |
As always, THANK YOU. By the way, took pictures of the car today. Unfortunately, it is on the hoist being certified. Ball joints, steering rack and other things are being done. Also tuneup. Ah well.
Any ideas about how to post the pics? Keep getting a message that the size of the pics need to be sized down to 640. |
william speer (Wspeer)
Junior Member
Username: Wspeer
Post Number: 245
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Friday, May 02, 2003 - 4:32 pm: | |
30k service for the dino consists of:
1.change oil and filter
2.change gearbox and diff oil
3.check and adjust generator belt
4.check and adjust a/c belts
7.inspect dist. breaker point, condensor, oil
distributer cam, and check ign. timing
8.clean air filter
9.replace spark plugs
10.inspect high tension wires,plug caps
11.check and adjust valve clearance and timing
chain tension
14.clean and adjust carbs
15.check fast idle device
16.check blow-by pipes
17.check air pump clutch and filter, inspect low
tension wires distributor microswitch coils and
electronic unit
18.check secondary air pump connections
21.check piping and fittings of evaporative
emissions control device
22.check and adjust clutch and brake free travel
24.replace brake fluid and bleed brakes
25.change brake pads
27.check free play and grease front bearings
28.grease front suspension and check rubber caps
29.inspect steering gear bellows and eliminate
steering play
31.inspect half shaft joint covers
33.check battery and connections
34.oil horn compressor
38.check pressure, torque of wheel bolts and road
test the car
you will notice that some numbers are skipped, this is as the 30k service cards read, the missing numbers are checked at other service intervals. i have also shortened and abbreviated some of the text for typing purposes, but i have not left anything out to my knowledge. this info comes form the warranty card and owner's service book for 1974(the 1974 is a sticker that is the same color red and placed over the year 1973) models. |
adrian low (Audionut)
New member
Username: Audionut
Post Number: 38
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Friday, May 02, 2003 - 1:37 pm: | |
Not sure about the books. Tools and key fob for sure. Tons of documented history and photos of complete restoration. Look forward to your post of the service and THANKS
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william speer (Wspeer)
Junior Member
Username: Wspeer
Post Number: 243
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Friday, May 02, 2003 - 12:51 pm: | |
i have the warranty book that specifies the items to be completed for the 30k servise. i will try to post a copy of it later this evening. does your car have the books and records? tools? keyfob? etc.? |
adrian low (Audionut)
New member
Username: Audionut
Post Number: 37
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Friday, May 02, 2003 - 9:06 am: | |
William,
What's needed at 30k miles? Do you have a schedule of maintenance you could email me? I'd like to at least be aware of what to look for.
Thanks for ALL your help.
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william speer (Wspeer)
Junior Member
Username: Wspeer
Post Number: 239
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Friday, May 02, 2003 - 8:04 am: | |
what i did when i first took delivery of my car was have all the fluids changed, the carbs adjusted and any other items that seemed necessary taken care of. there wasn't much for me. my 30K service had just been performed at norwoods about 6 months or so before i bought the car. i would have someone you trust look the car over and look for any major problems. you probably won't find many things. don't worry about the oil leak, as all old ferraris leak oil to one degree or another. i was once told that if you ferrari isn't leaking, you know it is out of oil. |
adrian low (Audionut)
New member
Username: Audionut
Post Number: 36
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Friday, May 02, 2003 - 5:15 am: | |
So now that I am coming off the high of buying the beauty, I am starting to think of the servicing and maintenance required. In other words, other than driving it and waiting for something to break, what should I be doing to keep the car in proper working order? How many miles/oil change. What about the chains? When do I do that? Anything else to know?
Would really appreciate some info especially from current/past owners and mechanics.
Thanks again. Will try to take some pics today.
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