| Author | Message | ||
| Peter Polasek (Peterp)
Junior Member Username: Peterp Post Number: 90 Registered: 8-2002 |
Frank -- so that's all it takes to get that look, I was afraid it might be something complicated... Sounds like you have done a LOT of work, but the results speak volumes. Thanks very much for the info. | ||
| Frank K Lipinski (Kaz)
Member Username: Kaz Post Number: 256 Registered: 11-2002 |
Peter - I was afraid someone was going to ask...but you're second question first... No need to use dish soap if you use a strong polish, because the polish itself will remove wax. However, if you're a Zaino fan and use a polish, glaze, or SMR first - then you have to use dish soap after polish to remove any residue oils from the polish / fillers. Zaino likes to stick to pure paint. I have over 50 waxes / polish..you name it, I got it (Including the $1400 Zymol - was a gift). I normally use a variety of Meg & 3M products and keep a detailed reference log of all my notes so I can go back a year ago, see what wax I used and my comments and photos (yes, too much time on my hands, I know) For the last car show (1st place Ferrari Division) I tried someting different. Autoglym - not the regular stuff, but the pro line. In this order...After 3M Perfect It III.... 1. Autoglym Resign Polish 2. Colonite #845 Insulator Wax - No Sh*t! Made for powerline wires...colonite shows it in auto car products and a friend showed me this. It has a cult following...unreal stuff. Use it on your wipers, door jams, everything. 3. Autoglym Liquid Hard wax. Clear like water and tuff as nails...but a b*tch to remove, even with a PC. Every once in a while I'll throw a topper of P21 on the Hard Wax - very compatible. BTW - Autoglym also makes something called Plastic Rubber Cleaner #07B. Red thick gel that is perfect for the motor, hoses, rubber, trim etc and does not wash off. I think the bottom line is not the wax you use but in the prep work. 90% prep 10% wax..and a Porter Cable... Doing a show at the end of this month and think will do something different again. Klasse has always been a favorite with me... | ||
| Peter Polasek (Peterp)
Junior Member Username: Peterp Post Number: 89 Registered: 8-2002 |
Frank -- what do you have on your car? I want to use THAT -- it looks great. I assume from your comments it's S100. I have a question about dish soap. I know MANY people use this to strip the wax, but I've read that the dish soap also removes essential oils from the paint and over time deteriorates it. Based on this, I only use car soap and use a pre-wax cleaner when I want to remove the old wax. Does anybody else have this concern? Chris -- not every wax removes the old layer. There are really two types. Most popular brands (Turtle Wax, Simoniz, ...) contain a cleaner that removes dirt and the old wax. Other "high end" waxes (P21S) have no cleaners and will only cover the surface -- these require cleaning prior to use but are very mild will never cause swirl marks as long as the surface is clean. If you wax a few times a year, then either wax type is fine. I know some here wax their car monthly and I think use of a cleaner wax with this frequency does more harm than good -- it is probably safer to use a cleaner once every 4 months or so and use the pure non-cleaner wax in the monthly sessions. I use a cleaner followed by a pure wax once a year and then just use the pure wax every 4 months or so. My car still beads now and it has been 5 months since I last waxed with P21S, so there is some "layering" that occurs if a non-cleaner wax is used. As mentioned previously, there are no rules to the naming conventions (polish,wax,..) and several manufacturers (like Meguires) offer both pure waxes and cleaner waxes, so the only way to tell is by carefully reading the labels. Try the clay bar, you will be happy. I am taking the same "wife's car fist" approach with a synthetic polish (Liquitech Finish First). | ||
| Peter Polasek (Peterp)
Junior Member Username: Peterp Post Number: 86 Registered: 8-2002 |
I don't think that oil (WD-40) is good for rubber if left on for a long time. 303 Aerospace protectant is great on hoses, vinyl, even black metal in the engine compartment. It works wonders on the black crinkle paint on the air intake (mine was chalky but looks like new after applying 303). Works great on all vinyl (not on leather) and contains sunscreen to prevent sun damage. For the door/window weatherstripping, I use leatherique Pristine Clean followed by 303 protectant. I get 303 from www.performanceproducts.com, but I'm sure it is available elsewhere. | ||
| philip (Fanatic1)
Junior Member Username: Fanatic1 Post Number: 191 Registered: 2-2003 |
Thanks Steven, Everyone is singing Leatherique's praises on all their products........guess it's time to visit their website. | ||
| Steven R. Rochlin (Enjoythemusic)
Member Username: Enjoythemusic Post Number: 397 Registered: 4-2002 |
Philip, For hoses, vinyl and such i use Leatherique. Have not found anything better after trying MANY other products. Enjoy the Drive, Steven R. Rochlin | ||
| philip (Fanatic1)
Junior Member Username: Fanatic1 Post Number: 190 Registered: 2-2003 |
How do you guys clean and get the hoses and everything nice and shiny in the engine bay...I thought about wiping a lot down with WD 40, but because it's flamable I had second thoughts......any good products mainly for the hoses and stuff that won't harm the rubber? | ||
| Mitch Alsup (Mitch_alsup)
Member Username: Mitch_alsup Post Number: 612 Registered: 4-2002 |
As long as we are on car prep: How does one remove the prancing horse* so they can clean/polish/wax under it? *like the one on the back of the F355 | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Junior Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 171 Registered: 4-2003 |
Frank, I was referring to the Zaino application link below. STEP 7: " After removal of Z-2 Z-5, you should wait 24 hours if tempature is below 70 degrees, and 6 hours if outside tempature is above 70 dgrees before applying the next coat of Z-2 Z-5. I am not saying that the products do not work, it just seems really labor intensive. Personally, I like to drive my car (with pride) versus show it. So a detailing project for me must be limited to a more pragmatic approach. Just my opinion. | ||
| Frank K Lipinski (Kaz)
Junior Member Username: Kaz Post Number: 250 Registered: 11-2002 |
JM2 - I have the report and know Steve, the author...agree 99% with it, however not completely unbiased as one would believe...there is a synergy with a car care vendor�..To avoid any legal probs, let me do a Forest Gump and say �That�s all I have to say about that� � but trust me on this one� | ||
| Dave Wapinski (Davewapinski)
Member Username: Davewapinski Post Number: 544 Registered: 8-2001 |
Frank Parker, It seems like in an earlier thread you recommended a polish that could only be baught at BMW or Porsche places. Is that the Klasse? Thanks, Dave Wapinski | ||
| jm2 (Yello355)
New member Username: Yello355 Post Number: 11 Registered: 8-2002 |
see www.gurureports.org | ||
| Frank K Lipinski (Kaz)
Junior Member Username: Kaz Post Number: 248 Registered: 11-2002 |
Just a few comments�btw I�m ready for the OT cops to get us because this, next to floor mats, is one of our favorite topics here�lol. On clay � Think of it like a face wash that defoliates the skin. Clay will remove tiny specs like rail road dust chips when you cross tracks. The iron in these chips can begin to rust and stick to your paint. Will not scratch as long as you wash your car first, use a lube with it like any quick detailer spray or a mix of 50/50 water and dish soap, and wipe it off with a micro fiber towel (MF). On Polish � Yes, no consistency here�wish they would standardize like motor oil, where 50w is 50w no matter which brand you buy. Swirl Marks � are usually caused by the towel you use when washing, drying or waxing. Good practice is to use MF and wash them regularly and separately. I use a separate air powered leaf blower to dry my car..works fast and gets all the water out of the small tight areas. You can remove swirl marks two ways�polish them out with a buffer (porter cable is my favorite)..you have to use caution because you are �leveling� the paint / clearcoat and don�t want to go too far. The other option is using something that has fillers in it, like a glaze which will hide them to the naked eye. Synthetic vs Carb � Long debate. Synthetic like Zaino, Klause, Blackfire, etc have durability but some feel they lack that �warm glow� that carb produces. I have done many side by side test. IMHO Zaino looks great on light colored (white / silver) cars. Zaino claims their product is optically correct and seems to accentuate the clear coat more than the paint�almost too shinny and sometimes the car looks �plasticy�. P Thomas � ZFX is an accelerator that you mix with Zaino so you don�t have to wait in between coats. Peter and Dom � Yep P21 is good stuff, but most people have to get it via mail order. S100 is the same product�it�s just marketed for motorcycles and available at any Harley shop..but the exact same thing.. Car show last month �  | ||
| Chris Richardson (Boozy)
Member Username: Boozy Post Number: 263 Registered: 11-2001 |
A cleaner (at least any I know of, like the one in Mother's cleaner wax with carnauba) is not abrasive. It would be a "polish" if it was abrasive. To make things even more confusing, some companies call their wax a polish even though it isn't abrasive, but a true polish is always abrasive. Any time you make contact with your paint you will cause incidental scratches. Wax your car too much, no matter how careful you are, and you will get more scratches or swirl marks. With just about any wax you remove your old wax as you apply the new wax. If you still had old coats of wax you were building on you wouldn't need to wax it and water would still bead the same. Multiple coats is a waste of time. I have no personal experience with the clay bar, I have always wanted to try it. Maybe on the wife's van! | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Junior Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 166 Registered: 4-2003 |
Oh, and next, on step #9, now if you are satisfied with the finish you can start using Z-2. Man, I am in pretty good shape, but I would need a Z-2 defibilator to jump start my ticker. I would be dead. | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Junior Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 165 Registered: 4-2003 |
Peter, the clay bars are awesome. You can use several products as a lubricant, but yes lubricant is mandatory. I do not think I have ever heard anyone say anything negative about the clay bar. Craig, curious as to what you would use in lieu of a clay bar to remove impurities??? Anything elese would just grind the impurity into the finish, at high speed. | ||
| Peter Polasek (Peterp)
Junior Member Username: Peterp Post Number: 85 Registered: 8-2002 |
Clay bars causing scratches is a myth. The bar comes with a lubricant that makes the bar slide over the paint. Use properly, there is no abrasion. It's hard to use improperly because it won't slide if you don't have enough lubricant. You don't even have to use any pressure and it pulls out dirt you never knew was there. I was also concerned about this before I tried it, but there is no abrasion and I was literally amazed by the smoothness of the paint afterward (and this was with paint that had been very well maintained previously). Has anybody had a bad experience with a clay bar? | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Junior Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 164 Registered: 4-2003 |
Saw the accelerant. step #7, wait 24 hours if under 70 degrees F. or 6 hours if over 70 degrees?? Then apply another coat of Z-5 or Z-7?? Man, my forearms were too pumped to even hit my mouse button. And I was just reading it. Zaino application instructions | ||
| Peter Polasek (Peterp)
Junior Member Username: Peterp Post Number: 84 Registered: 8-2002 |
I agree with P. Thomas (drive the car) and Dom (preparation is everything). I clean the car to councours level about once a year and then just drive it with occassional washes and a quick coat of wax every 4 months. The car is frequently dirty on the surface, but because of the annual thorough cleaning, the paint is protected and it looks great after a simple wash. I am very concerned about protecting the paint -- I really couldn't care less if it looks clean at any given time. I don't think that frequent waxing is better for the paint and I think it is harmful if a "cleaner" wax is used because it's slightly abrassive. You probably also loose a lot of the benefit of frequent waxes with a "cleaner" wax because it removes the old wax while putting on a coat of new wax --frequent waxing with carnuba would theoretically thicken the wax layer for more protection. Regarding the products, I think most clay bars are the same and most cleaners are roughly the same. I think that the 3m Imperial hand glaze is much better than other glazes, not sure why -- but I have seen it restore paint that I thought was beyond hope and other glazes did not. I also like P21S wax better than other carnubas because it seems less prone to yellowing (carnubas tend to yellow over time). I used to use Meguires (No. 9 I think) and it did have a problem with yellowing (and it starts out yellow). P21S is white and doesn't leave residue in cracks. None of the carnubas last that long -- 3 or 4 months -- so in this respect they are all the same. Everyone seems to love Zainos, so this may very well be a much better approach than wax. I don't know anything about Nu Finish -- but I can't help but wonder why they have been using the same grey junkyard Volvo for the 20ish years that the TV ads have been running. | ||
| Chris Richardson (Boozy)
Member Username: Boozy Post Number: 261 Registered: 11-2001 |
Mother's cleaner wax with carnauba is an excellent wax. I prefer it to my $65 can of Zymol! I personally believe that only a professional or very experienced individual should apply a polish to a Ferrari. Polishes remove clearcoat (or paint if you have a single stage paint job) so you should use with great care and only when absolutely necessary. I have never used a clay bar because one of my best friends owns a high-end body shop and I asked him what he thought of them. He said use it if you like to scratch your paint. It will pick up any dust and drag it across your paint. | ||
| Craig A (Milo)
Junior Member Username: Milo Post Number: 66 Registered: 4-2003 |
Zaino has an accelerant now that allows you to do several steps in hours now and not days. As already stated, revisit the web site and check it out. | ||
| Drstranglove (Drstranglove)
Junior Member Username: Drstranglove Post Number: 180 Registered: 4-2003 |
Guess I shouldn't tell you all I used NuFinish, huh? DrS | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Junior Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 163 Registered: 4-2003 |
Dom. " really shiney crap, LOL! | ||
| Bob Cowart (Bob_cowart)
New member Username: Bob_cowart Post Number: 18 Registered: 3-2003 |
Zaino: the overnight thing is not necessary. If you go to their site you will see what I'm talking about. Also, I live in a dry climate and the Zaino products dry very quickly: easy to apply and easy to remove. I've used waxes my whole life, but Zaino's is difficult to beat. Good luck. | ||
| Dom Vitarella (Dom)
Junior Member Username: Dom Post Number: 158 Registered: 11-2002 |
The key to getting your paint to look good is the proper preparation. Once the car is prepared properly, IMHO, the wax you use doesn't matter. Most store brought waxes will look decent. Other issues such as durability, slickness, etc. will vary, and each person will have his own opinion on which brand to use (i.e., if you wax once a month, you really don't care if your wax/sealant is made to last 6 months...) P. Thomas has it right with regards to the steps for paint preparation. In addition to meguiars, Mothers makes a 3-step system that works pretty good. On my 308 GT4, I use a wax called S100 (found in Harley davidson dealers- ~$14.00). Easy on-easy off, and lasts a while. Looks great. S100 also makes a mild polish (Shine-enhanicing cleanser- about $8.00) that complements the S100 wax nicely. I use Zaino on my daily driver (Alfa 164) mainly because I like the 6 month durability. The look is different from a wax- again, it just comes down to personal preferance. With Zaino, however, preparation is a big big step, and if your car has tons of swirls before you put it on, it will still look like crap afterwards, just really shiney crap. But, when the paint is prepared properly, it looks good, and lasts. I've just purchased a Porter Cable random orbit buffer, and some meguiars DACP, and one of these days I plan to tackle some of the heavier swirls on my GT4. Dom | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Junior Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 162 Registered: 4-2003 |
The advantage of a product like Zaino is you can build layers, creating an incredibly deep shine. I am not entering my car in a show. Its the old 20% of the work for 80% of the payoff type deal. I am going driving! | ||
| Peter Polasek (Peterp)
Junior Member Username: Peterp Post Number: 83 Registered: 8-2002 |
You really have to make an upfront decision whether you want to use a synthetic polish (Zainos or Finish First) or a wax (P21S, mothers). The advantages of the polishes are that they provide a harder finish, last longer, and are less prone to leaving residue in recessed areas. The advantage of the wax is a deeper shine and it is much easier to remove (the polishes bond to the surface and apparently are much more difficult to remove). Polishes are more durable, but I still prefer the wax (but I'm going to try Liquitech Finish First on my wife's car). If you choose the wax approach, the products I mention previously are among the best (I have tried a lot of products). The clay bar is a great prep for either a polish or a wax -- the wax/polish process is much easier because the surface is completely smooth -- so the wax spreads evenly and comes off very easily. If you choose the wax approach, cleaner waxes are not really recommended because it really isn't possible for them to remove the old wax, remove the dirt, and leave a fresh coat of clean wax in one step. The cleaner wax looks good, but there is a little dirt and old wax that remains in the paint and they are more abrasive because the clean the paint every time. The best approach is to use a cleaner once a year to remove old wax/dirt/swirls and then to use a pure carnuba wax 3 or 4 times per year. A glaze between the cleaner and wax conditions the paint and really makes it shine. 3m Imperial hand glaze specifically is really seems to restore the oils to the paint an make it look much better, particularly if the paint appears dried. P21S wax minimizes residue in recessed areas (the usual downside of wax). | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Junior Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 161 Registered: 4-2003 |
Craig, I know people rant and rave about their products, but when I went to their website and read that it is recommended that you leave one product on over night, is said, "no thanks!" I am going driving! | ||
| Craig A (Milo)
Junior Member Username: Milo Post Number: 65 Registered: 4-2003 |
Zaino, Zaino, Zaino. The stuff is amazing. I use their entire range of products. | ||
| Peter Polasek (Peterp)
Junior Member Username: Peterp Post Number: 82 Registered: 8-2002 |
The following products in order works very well: 1. Mothers clay bar (pulls grit out of paint (even if you think the paint is perfectly clean)) 2. P21S cleaner -- removes wax, oxidation, ... 3. 3M Imperial Hand Glaze 4. P21S wax | ||
| Sunny Garofalo (Jaguarxj6)
Member Username: Jaguarxj6 Post Number: 398 Registered: 2-2003 |
Kaz, Ed, and P. Thomas are on the money. See my response to Omar in the paint help thread. The more you prep the paint before that final glaze and/or wax (carnuba or synthetic) the better the final result will be. The saying its all in the prep work is true. Microfiber cloths are more gentle then 100% cotton anything. And look very long and very hard for a good chamois. I'm not talking about the paper thin absolute crap they sell today, but a natural, thick, and plush one. You'll know it when you find it because it won't remove wax residue, where as microfiber and cotton towels will. Mine is nearly 28 years old, beat to hell with holes like swiss cheese, and three times as thick as anything on the market, and I'm convinced made of unobtanium. My father found it "floating" along Sherman Way in Van Nuys one day a year or two before I was born and its been "passed down." Find a detailer who knows where to obtain one or will part with one. Wash the cloths together and the chamois (separately) after every single use. Pick the products that are best for you. Meguiar's makes some outstanding products. The gold class wax is their best. Pinnacle and P21S are also top notch but not cheap ($25-60 per jar). Zaino is the king, looks nearly as good as the top carnubas, will last you 6 months on a daily driver rain or shine, longer for a non-daily, and like a carnuba, can be layered. It too is not cheap but soo worth it. A technique to continually enhance gloss, reflectivity, or depth depending on what your aiming for. Sunny | ||
| Ron Vallejo (Ron328)
Junior Member Username: Ron328 Post Number: 120 Registered: 3-2003 |
Guys, THANKS a lot again, esp. for P. Thomas' detailed advice. I'll try your suggestions. Regards. | ||
| Gabe V (Racerxgto)
New member Username: Racerxgto Post Number: 36 Registered: 4-2003 |
A small detail, but none the less important. Make sure the car body is cool, especially over the engine deck lid. Polishing and waxing right after a Ferrari drive does not yeild the best results. Ferrari enamel is soft when warm and waxing under those conditions will create deeper swirl marks. | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Junior Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 160 Registered: 4-2003 |
Ron, no the wax goes on last. Cleaners and polishers do just that. Clean and polish. Wax protects your car's finish. You could try a "all in one" like Mcguires Gold Class, but that Turtle Wax you have will only cover on top of the oxidized paint that needs to be removed. The MINIMUM product I would use would be Mguires. I have used 3 Mcguires products in the past. Always start with a good wash, in this case ONLY, you can use liquid dish soap as it actually strips of the old wax. After you have her all done, do not use liquid dish soap on your next wash. It will strip your new wax. You really can't hurt anything other than your wrists, but do yourself a huge favor and get some decent products. 1) Mguires Body scrub. This cleans all the wax and other crap off of your car. 2) Mcguires polish. This feeds the pint and is the main contributor to a high gloss shine. 3) Mguires pure wax. This is simply wax and has no polish. You will hear MULTIPLE opions on products, but do you see the basics? You will need to remove the old wax, oxidized paint first. Then polish (feed) the paint. Next if you want you can wax to protect. It is really a 3 step process. PS the hood, roof, top, etc of the car take the most punishment from the sun, heat, tree sap, etc. Work a small 2x2 foot area at a time and keep plent y of 100% cotton towels on hand. Let me know how it works out! | ||
| Ron Vallejo (Ron328)
Junior Member Username: Ron328 Post Number: 118 Registered: 3-2003 |
Thanks, P. Thomas. "Oxidized paint." That's what the guy at Autozone told me. He said it's just like I'm removing a "dead skin" and added it won't hurt the paint (although I didn't take a chance and went back to Turtle wax). I am usually neurotic about cleaning my car after evey use (I enjoy it).After handwashing my car, I wipe it completely dry with a soft cloth, then start applying the wax. Should I apply a cleaner/polish in between? Thanks again. | ||
| Erik (Teenferrarifan)
Junior Member Username: Teenferrarifan Post Number: 57 Registered: 2-2003 |
Meguairs endurence is the best tire gel around. It even lasts through rain. Also gold class is a much easier wax to remove then carnuba(sp?) IMHO. Erik | ||
| Bob Cowart (Bob_cowart)
New member Username: Bob_cowart Post Number: 15 Registered: 3-2003 |
Griots Polish # 3 for removing swirls and light scratches. Use an orbital buffer to apply and buff out the polish. Zaino's for protecting the paint and an unbelievable deep luster shine. Again apply with buffer but remove by hand. Use quality pads for applying/removing and quality micro-fiber cloths. http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?L1=L1_1000 http://www.zainobros.com/files/application.htm good luck - Bob | ||
| Ed P. (Ebp)
Junior Member Username: Ebp Post Number: 108 Registered: 12-2002 |
Check out : www.properautocare.com I really like the pinnacle line. | ||
| Paul Hill (348paul)
Junior Member Username: 348paul Post Number: 220 Registered: 12-2002 |
I have to agree with Frank L - the Meguairs ranges of products are excellent. Here in the UK 90% of people swears by Auto Glym - I stopped using this a long time ago - I am great Meguairs fan. Maybe a bit more work but worth it  Paul | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Junior Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 150 Registered: 4-2003 |
Ron, red paint on cloth. Surpirses me a little bit. Only in a sense that it would indicate you do not have a 2 stage (base coat, clear coat) finish. What you are seeing is oxidized paint. Think of it as dead skin. It also surprises me that using a finishing product you were able to lift old paint from your car. Try a cleaner/polish first, in an inconspicious area to test the condition of your paint. Sounds like you have got some polishing to do. Follow up with carnuba wax or a sealant (depends on product/process) to protect the fine work that you have done from the elements. | ||
| Ron Vallejo (Ron328)
Junior Member Username: Ron328 Post Number: 117 Registered: 3-2003 |
What do you guys think of... 1. Turtle wax Express shine (spray wax)? This is what I've been using. 2. One time when I used Meguiar's Quik wax (spray), the white cloth I was using started having red stains (the color of the car) after just a few swirls. Is this bad? Thank you. | ||
| Frank Parker (Parkerfe)
Intermediate Member Username: Parkerfe Post Number: 2241 Registered: 9-2001 |
To remove oxidation and small scrathes and swirls I use Klasse One-Step(cleaner/polish). Then I go over the car with a coat of Klasse Sealant. It gives the paint a rich deep shine. Klasse is a German product which I like better than anything else I have ever used. | ||
| Frank K Lipinski (Kaz)
Junior Member Username: Kaz Post Number: 247 Registered: 11-2002 |
I could write a book on this... First, before you do anything evaluate the paint. If you finish is relatively good, an agressive product will do more harm than good... You don't have a pix of your 348 so it's hard for me to judge what you need to do. For most cars - Wash with Dawn soap. Don't use Dawn regularly, ONLY use Dawn when you are ready for waxing because Dawn will strip / remove any old wax. Clay Bar - will remove deposits on paint..an optional procedure, but only takes about 30 min. Polish - Polish will "clean" your paint...they come in different levels of agressiveness and some act as a swirl mark remover. A favorite among many is Meguairs Dual Action Cleaning Polish (DACP). This is usually followed by a finer polish such as Megs Swirl Free Polish. Wax - goes over the polish to protect the finish. Many prefer carnauba...but synthetic waxes, such as Zaino, are becoming very popular. If all this is too much, Meguiars makes a decent one step paste wax..go to any Pep Boys and look for a can called Gold Class..my neighbor just did he black M-Benz with it 2 days ago and came out great. If you really want a concourse look, Mike Charness of this board has a great write up on his F-Club web site... http://www.fca-se.org/ or go to Autopia at http://www.autopia.org/index.php where you will see many of my post under user name Prancing Horse.. Good Luck | ||
| Sunny Garofalo (Jaguarxj6)
Member Username: Jaguarxj6 Post Number: 391 Registered: 2-2003 |
3M rubbing compounds. They work great for light scratches applying by hand. For deep scratches, take it to a pro unless you know how to use a high speed buffer really well | ||
| Peter Sedlak (Peters)
Member Username: Peters Post Number: 324 Registered: 1-2003 |
I'll add the following question: Are there any good polishing compounds out there that will do a great job for surface scratches? The waxes I use do not cut it (haha). I would like to think I can clean up the paint without leaning towards painting the car. The current paint is actually pretty good, but I may be more picky than others. | ||
| Drstranglove (Drstranglove)
Junior Member Username: Drstranglove Post Number: 174 Registered: 4-2003 |
Just as it says.... How do you do it?? DrS |