| Author |
Message |
Christian (Christiank)
Member
Username: Christiank
Post Number: 310
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 11:10 am: | |
I once thought about changing from single nut to the newer 5 nut version. I got a quote from an english company (don't remember the name but you could just check around and I am sure you would find them) for about USD 1,500. I didn/t go that way but I was told that many guys in the UK do it. |
Adam Goldman '86 TR (Icnsltmfg)
Member
Username: Icnsltmfg
Post Number: 312
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 7:31 pm: | |
Jeff;
My TR had it's front hubs replaced under warranty with the first owner due to discolouration only. First, the nuts tighten in the opposite direction from the foward wheel rotation which will typicaly keep the nut tight. I pull the wheels every oil change and regrease the splines and inspect. You should not have any problem like the story they told you.
I also have a great mech in Short Hills that is very reasonable and very fair. His name is Bryan @ Independent 973-376-7888. His major service is very reasonable, and his preventive is even better. Saved me $1200 by cleaning my caps vs replacing, where most would just replace. |
F-J'87EuroTR (Ferrarijoe)
Junior Member
Username: Ferrarijoe
Post Number: 117
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 2:52 pm: | |
Jeff,
First, will your other wheel hub nuts brake lose? If so, that�s half the battle won. One of the most important things to keep tabs on when you have a early model TR with single hub nuts is to make sure they stay lubed with loctite copper anti-cease and that they are always checked and re-torqued if necessary, often (every 1K miles minimum).
If you want, from TRutlands buy the Ferrari tool AV-1522 for the hub nut (it�s �� drive) and get a 350 ft. lb. Snap-On Torque-O-Meter C-352 (it�s �� drive) from eBay for $50-75. It has a cheater bar that inserts into the handle for advantage and brakes down to stow away in the trunk or case that some come with. The whole setup will run around $250-300 but that is the cost of 1 hub nut.
Loosen the nuts then jack up one side of the car at a time. Remove the nut and wheel, clean the inside threads and outside hub splines and the outside threads of the nut with brake parts cleaner and wipe dry. Liberally spooge on the loctite on all mating surfaces. Thread on the nut, let the car down on the wheels and torque to 325 ft. lbs.
I have this setup, it is fantastic, and check/torque the wheels take 5 minutes.
I have a spare left side hub nut that is blemished. If you are interested in it let me know. Or you can call Steve Chanecy in CO. at 949 366-6211. He has all sorts of Ferrari wheel parts and his prices are very reasonable.
Joe
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bruce wellington (Bws88tr)
Junior Member
Username: Bws88tr
Post Number: 112
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 6:15 am: | |
jeff
i live near frenchtown-flemington nj area. i have a great great mechanic , right hear in frenchtown, wil degroot his name is. he does all my tr work, is very fair, and extremely knowledgable. HE does ferrari, lambo, amd massarati work...call me about 8 am this morning at work, 888 882 6965 as i have to leave now, we can talk, and ill try and help you |
Jeff J (King_rebar)
New member
Username: King_rebar
Post Number: 2
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 6:10 am: | |
Thank you both for the response. Bruce, I'm from Medford, NJ. I see we're from the same state so I'm confident you may be able to help. I have been looking for a good shop that repairs Ferrari. This is my first, I've had many vehicles, primarily German and the only remaining shop that I used seems uncomfortable with this one. I agree, I've never heard of this problem before and would think that FNA would have issued something for self-protection. Additionally, the price quote was simply outrageous. Since I was terribly busy with other pressing issues at the time, I thought it best to just keep in a holding pattern of sorts and seek some opinions. I've been searching for a board like this and am grateful to have found it. Thanks again for the replies. |
bruce wellington (Bws88tr)
Junior Member
Username: Bws88tr
Post Number: 111
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 5:47 am: | |
hi jeff
i also have never heard that problem before, i own a 88 1/2 tr with 5 lugs rather than what you own..also the price quoted to you{without the service) seems rather far fetched and not human.
Jeff , tell me where do you live? maybe with my experience, i know someone "trustworthy" that you can get a 2nd opinion.
regards,
bruce |
Patrick S. Perry (Psp1)
Junior Member
Username: Psp1
Post Number: 68
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, April 21, 2002 - 11:06 pm: | |
I've had my 88TR (early 88 with 16" wheels and center hubs) for nearly 7 years, and this is the first I've heard of this "problem". If the problem was THAT serious, I would imagine that FNA would be required to recall those cars so equipped - or at least officially notify all current owners of a potentially dangerous situation to cover their legal fannies.
I wonder if the service department was slow that week - maybe they were having a sales contest and your service writer needed to catch up! |
Jeff J (King_rebar)
New member
Username: King_rebar
Post Number: 1
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, April 21, 2002 - 10:00 pm: | |
Hello, I own an '86 Testarossa. In October I was en route to the dealer for major service (yikes) and lost a center lock for a wheel. Luckily the wheel didn't come off and I got it there. The dealer called with the gory details: this vehicle has an inherent problem with corrosion behind the wheel and on the hub, preventing a good "seat". They continued that all 4 wheels had this problem and I needed new wheels, hubs, etc., to correct. Parts only: $11K!! They explained that in order to avoid this problem, compressed air should have been used to dry behind the wheels after washing, etc. I was shocked. I asked about repairing the wheels/hubs, logically (I thought) thinking that you must be able to resurface the contact points on the wheels and hubs. I was snobbily told that anyone who faced this problem in the past at their dealership replaced the parts and they had no idea about how to repair the problem. That, coupled with the fact that the engine service would be over 5K, had my head spinning. For sanity's sake, I had the car flatbedded back to my home, vowing to decide it's fate in the spring. Well, spring has sprung and I'm still not sure what to do. I can't see dumping nearly 20K into the car and I wouldn't sell it with the knowledge that the wheels may be dangerous. So I'm wondering about repairing the condition and if anyone has had a similar experience. I've thought of maybe installing a 5 lug wheel conversion kit if replacement is my only option. Bottom line is that I'm lost and the TR is sitting in the garage unused. Please help, the wife is starting to make plans for the fire sale proceeds! |
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