| Author | Message | ||
| Peter Barbin (Sophia)
New member Username: Sophia Post Number: 34 Registered: 8-2003 |
"Diesel oil" doesn't have to be of a light viscosity. Chevron Delo 400 is the choice of Diesel burners, maritime and ground rollers, from the VW Golf to the Kenworth. It comes in all kinds of grades. Delo 400 has an additive package designed to deal with high sulfur content fuels, keeping the bad stuff in suspension. Now the idea that this "diesel oil" might be good for the rich running engines of our Ferrari's, is a question that's beyond me...any petro-engineers out there? Delo 400 is rated for gasoline engines too, and a few of the viscosity grades have an "API star rating." I'm also of the school that over changing the motor oil could rid old motors of "helpful" varnishes that build up within...yet as rich as my carbed 308 naturally runs, cold-start blow-by vapors that collect in the oil can't be good. So I change my oil every 6 months...the car only gets about 2K yr on it, so I quess that I'm choosing bearing life/oil lubrication quality (due to removing the fuel degradation factor) over the concept of avoiding varnish removal (frequent oil changes with new detergents.) I'm a non-synthetic guy for my 70's toys, Kendall GT1. | ||
| MarkPDX (Markpdx)
Member Username: Markpdx Post Number: 693 Registered: 4-2003 |
Jack It�s kind of off topic so I won�t go into it further here but if you email me (email is in my profile) I would be glad to share what I know and will give you some links to check out. | ||
| Jack Habits (Ferraristuff)
Intermediate Member Username: Ferraristuff Post Number: 1052 Registered: 4-2003 |
I still hope... and hope... and hope... that you're kidding... Is use of these "pressure washers" also regulated? Can you go about town carrying one or go to the local strip club with it? Jack | ||
| MarkPDX (Markpdx)
Member Username: Markpdx Post Number: 686 Registered: 4-2003 |
Nope, they are not regulated on the Federal level. State laws may vary. They are expensive and rare but can be seen in action at shoots like Knob Creek in Kentucky. Do a search and you will find quite a bit about them. | ||
| Jack Habits (Ferraristuff)
Intermediate Member Username: Ferraristuff Post Number: 1044 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hu Henryk, didn't want to "flame" you... But I know that in the 1970's (even over here) Kerosine WAS mixed with hot water in PWs to get the protective wax layer off new cars. Oh the things we did when we were young and foolish... ;-) Jack | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 1206 Registered: 8-2001 |
Jack: What I meant to say was that the pressure washer is a hot system......the kerosene is used to heat the water that comes out. It was this use of kerosene that I realized how thin the liguid is. Mark: You have given me an idea on another use for my PW........really like the pic!!!!!LOL | ||
| Jack Habits (Ferraristuff)
Intermediate Member Username: Ferraristuff Post Number: 1038 Registered: 4-2003 |
>>>ok, it's not a pressure washer, it's a flamethrower which are legal to own in the good old USofA You're kidding... Right? Please tell me that you are... Jack | ||
| Thomas I (Wax)
Member Username: Wax Post Number: 344 Registered: 7-2003 |
Might come in handy during flamewars. | ||
| Jack Habits (Ferraristuff)
Intermediate Member Username: Ferraristuff Post Number: 1036 Registered: 4-2003 |
>>>Loosen up a little, pressure washers + kerosene = fun Hehhehehehehe That DOES look like fun! Guaranteed to remove all smudge AND you car! :-D Should we post the "put some kerosene in your pressure washer to make the flames on the side look a LOT more realistic" suggestion on some ricers forum? Jack | ||
| MarkPDX (Markpdx)
Member Username: Markpdx Post Number: 685 Registered: 4-2003 |
Jack Loosen up a little, pressure washers + kerosene = fun   ok, it's not a pressure washer, it's a flamethrower which are legal to own in the good old USofA | ||
| Andrew-Phillip Goalen (Andrewg)
Member Username: Andrewg Post Number: 384 Registered: 9-2002 |
have done the Kerosene thing in my VW, was told by an ex RR Engineer that it used to be part of the service routine in the 1970's, works very well, drain the old oil out, replace with Kerosene and let the car idle for 20 minutes, I repeated this a couple of times and the amount of rubbish that came out scared me silly, one small thing withy any flushing oil's, dont use em on cars with thermo controlled oil coolers! | ||
| Jack Habits (Ferraristuff)
Intermediate Member Username: Ferraristuff Post Number: 1034 Registered: 4-2003 |
>>>Kerosene, to me, is just TOO thin.....I use it in my pressure washer. Pfewwwwwwwwwwww.... Any idea what that does to the environment? No wonder the USA didn't want to sign the Kyoto treaty... Jack | ||
| dave handa (Davehanda)
Intermediate Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 1865 Registered: 5-2001 |
I use Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 truck motor oil. I'm uncertain as to whether it is considered a "diesel" oil or not, but the label specifically says it is fine "for all passenger cars". I'm using it because I picked up a bunch of it at WalMart for around $2.79 a quart or so...Have run it through at least a couple of oil changes (at 4k intervals) and seems fine....since this is the last of it, and it has not gone back on sale, I will probably revert to either Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec, which ever comes up on sale next... | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 1204 Registered: 8-2001 |
Pete: The story you tell is what I have heard also......the reason for me not using an engine cleaner at oil changes. I just wanted to get other opinions, before I decided to do it again. I guess that TOO clean is NO good!!!!!! Thanks. | ||
| PSk (Psk)
Member Username: Psk Post Number: 959 Registered: 11-2002 |
Henryk, Mario was talking about the fact that if you clean an old engine too well then you will remove the build up above the rings and all of a sudden you will have a smoker!. I know I did this when young with my Alfa Romeo. I put some special cleaning oil in her ... and she had done a few miles. Anyway she smoked really bad after that ... should have listened to my mechanic father  On old engines that build up keeps them driveable ... until you have the money to fix them properly. In the end why do you want to clean your engines insides anyway. Surely if you have followed the recommened oil changes and given her a good rev every now and then ... all will be fine. Pete | ||
| Jeff Green (Carguy)
Member Username: Carguy Post Number: 535 Registered: 10-2002 |
My senses must be dulled down by inhaling all the sovents from stripping the intakes down today. Although I was "looking" for the point of contact, I really don't recall feeling much change in pressure, not enough to alert my numbed brain anyways. Re: Paint, definately do not sand blast as it will change the texture of the intakes. Now that I say that it sounds stupid, the darn things are textured from the factory. But I agree with you about NOT sand blasting. I used fine plastic media, very gentle. A good friend has his own transmission shop, and has a very nice blasting cabinet that I get to use provided I take him to lunch once in a while. I've used it a bunch this summer so far. | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 1203 Registered: 8-2001 |
Jeff: No need to see the plunger. When you push the sensor plate gently, you can "feel" when it touches the plunger. There is a gap there, set by the screw that I "screwed" up. The gap is to assure that the plunger is all the way down, so that no gas enters the FI manifold, while the engine is off. RE: PAINTING: After reading your posts, I have decided NOT to sand blast. I will just clean the intakes, match some gray paint, and spray them......if it lasts for 5 years, before the next major service, then OK with me. Sorry to hear about your paint problems. My TR is on hold, until I get my '87 POS Range Rover fixed for the Winter. I hope to pull the TR engine in a week, or so. | ||
| Jeff Green (Carguy)
Member Username: Carguy Post Number: 534 Registered: 10-2002 |
Henry: I ran out into my shop and checked the FD to see the distance, and by eyeball it looks like maybe 3/16 of an inch or so. Very hard to see the plunger. It seemed to move the plunger just as the air sensor plate was at the transitional edge between nearly straight entry portion and the concave shaped chamber-like area. Does this make sense? If not just let me know. F.Y.I. I ended up stripping off the crinkle/sivler paint off my intake system today. Very disappointed in the results. Spent the day getting them perfectly clean, not a fun job as I baked the finish on. Will redo using just aluminum paint over zinc primer. The resto shop guy said they must do it 3 or 4 times to get it right, and they do it for a living! I had the top plenums looking good, but couldn't get the tubes to be right. Damn! I'm just too fussy I guess. | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 1202 Registered: 8-2001 |
Mario: "....natural resin seals.....". Could you explain? | ||
| mario navetta (Mar308)
New member Username: Mar308 Post Number: 5 Registered: 2-2003 |
I dont think it is a good idea to put a high detergent oil such as diesel oil on a higher miliage car, because it breaks down all the natural resin seals that a conventional oil builds up. | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 1200 Registered: 8-2001 |
Jeff: Diesel oils have a LOT more detergents in them, as opposed to gas oil. Diesels burn very "sooty", so a diesel oil is necessary in them....to keep things clean. Cars don't need this level of cleaning. One can NOT use regular engine oil in a diesel. Kerosene, to me, is just TOO thin.....I use it in my pressure washer. Maybe they just put in a quart, afew hundred miles before oil change. Years ago I used to use a quart of engine cleaner, just before an oil change......oil did stay cleaner. I don't know why I stopped......felt it was unnecessery. Others have stated that this is a good idea, but only if used since the engine was "new". Doing this on an old engine may get it SO clean that slop may arise in the journals!!!!!!!! My TR has 70K miles on it. BTW: Can you push down on the air sensor plate, and tell me about how far it goes down before it contacts the plunger of the FD? Thanks. | ||
| Jeff Green (Carguy)
Member Username: Carguy Post Number: 530 Registered: 10-2002 |
Hi Henry: I've heard that too. I've also heard people say to use a few quarts of kerosene instead of oil to clean out a motor, but this is a scary thought. But the diesel oil idea makes sense as a heavy duty cleaner. But after seening the guts of my TR's motor at 33k miles, it's surprisingly clean in there. I suppose a car that gets a lot of stop and go driving may need a good engine cleaning inside. There must be some logical reason that gas engine oils and diesel engine oils are different. As you can see I'm just sitting here rambling on the keyboard taking up everyone's valuable time. Ta Ta ! | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 1199 Registered: 8-2001 |
Due to the extra detergents in diesel oil, I was told that it would clean a gas engine to the max! I thought it could be used for about 500 miles, after getting rid of the old oil. Then this would be changed with new "car" oil, with new filter. This would not be done at each oil change......let's say every 20K miles or so. An interesting thought. Any comments? |