Author |
Message |
Leonardo Soccolich (Lens)
| Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2001 - 6:03 pm: | |
Speaking of dealers, I�ve heard that all dealerships that sell used cars in New York state are required to provide a warranty (duration varies) with purchase. Even for Ferraris. Is this true? What about NJ, CT, and PA? |
Frederick Thomas (Fred)
| Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2001 - 3:48 pm: | |
Paul, Maybe you should widen your search area a bit. If it is me and I'm planning on spending 125k on a car, I would be willing to spend $250 on a plane ticket, $200 for an inspection and $1500 to ship it home. Or better yet driving it home would be a blast. |
paul s (Pes236)
| Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2001 - 12:00 pm: | |
looking, searching and finding the right car is so extremely frustrating - 8 months now - getting warm out and getting very frustrated am i unreasonable to simply want a 97 355 spider red/tan, red/black 8900 miles or less within 300 miles of philly for 122-125k ( purchase price not asking price )plus tax tags in good shape, subscribe to dupont registry, ferrari market letter, checking internet all the time - very very frustrating |
Bruce Kubicka (Bruce)
| Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2001 - 7:55 pm: | |
Paul, I'm still looking, but may have found my car, will know by next week. Some learnings from my search -- The asking prices are all over the place. Sellers often ask premium prices for poorly maintained or abused cars simply because they read a couple of articles and some ads. Drive several cars and you'll notice differences, sometimes huge, between them. Talk to the mechanics who have serviced a particular car in which you may be interested and find out about the previous owner and how he drove and maintained the car. If a dealer has a car, talk to the previous owner if you can get that information. Ask them about the car, and why they traded it in. Again lots of good information can be gleaned from these conversations. Generally, the '95s are associated with more problems -- valve guides, headers, etc. -- that have been mentioned in previous posts. Not all cars are affected, but probably deserve a more detailed exam in these areas before you buy. The mechanics to whom I have spoken generally concur that the problems were essentially resolved by mid-97. Bottom line, I would not worry as much about mileage as about the care that the car got from its previous owners. A '95 that has lots of miles, but was owned by a fanatic who gave it all the proper maintenance, broke it in properly and drove it vigorously may well be a better car than a '97 with low miles that was driven by the wrong person. Good luck. |
Mike hughes (Mph)
| Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2001 - 3:10 pm: | |
Paul, I personally would avoid the 95. According to Forza magazine and my mechanic, the 95`s had problems that were addressed by the 1996 model year. Faulty cylinder liners and ECU troubles are two of the problems that stand out in my mind. The 1997 model you spoke of would be a better bet in my opinion. The best price? Tough question. Since the stock market and peoples opinion of the economy have soften, your bargaining power is probably better now than 6 months ago when I purchased mine. Per Forza magazine #21, A 1996-1997 one owner spider with Tubi exhaust and 3,000-5,000 miles should cost $115,000-124,000. However, I could not find one that inexpensive, in the color I wanted, in the southwest, six months ago. I personally feel its worth the extra money, to have my mechanic check it out, and be able to drive the car I am planning to drop six figures on. Run a car fax report on any car you are serious about before you buy. All you need is the VIN#, then log on to carfax.com. Car fax isn`t always 100% correct, however they do guarantee the title to be clean and you can tell where the car has been. Have your cash setup so you don`t have to rely on the dealer for financing, inspect the car and if its what you really want make them a today cash offer to buy the car. The worst they can say is no. Hope this helps. Post what ever happens, I would be curious. I have been in the car business for 17 years and buying a Ferrari is like any other car except they cost a little more. |
paul s (Pes236)
| Posted on Monday, April 02, 2001 - 6:41 am: | |
mph here are the 2 355 im considering 95 355 spider red/tan 1900 miles 6 speed 1 owner in stock since Nov.2000 asking $ 129500 97 355 spider red/tan 8100 miles 6 speed 1 owner in stock since Feb.2001 asking $ 132000 dealers are maybe an hour apart in NY let me know what you think- im probably not going to do anything for 2 to 3 weeks ( drywalling off one of the sections in my 3 car garage to keep the car separated- also going to try to paint the ferrari emblem on the floor) |
Mike hughes (Mph)
| Posted on Sunday, April 01, 2001 - 9:30 pm: | |
It depends on mileage, condition, recon costs, length of time in inventory and where they start on price. How much they come down is irrelevant to their bottom dollar price. Many dealers will inflate their price so they can give what appears to be a lofty discount. Paul, you didn`t mention what year, miles, transmission, etc you where looking for. |
paul s (Pes236)
| Posted on Sunday, April 01, 2001 - 12:12 pm: | |
let me know how you made out - wish you had more responses - im looking @ a 355 spider around $130 and wondering the same thing |
BobD (Bobd)
| Posted on Tuesday, March 27, 2001 - 9:21 pm: | |
Bruce, I bought my '89 328 from Ogner Motorcars in Woodland Hills, CA about two years ago. We agreed on a price which was $6K off their asking price. And a 328 is a lot less expensive than a 355... so there is definitely room to negotiate! Bob |
Bruce Kubicka (Bruce)
| Posted on Monday, March 26, 2001 - 7:14 pm: | |
What are people's experiences when negotiating the purchase of a used Ferrari from a dealer? By how much do they mark up the price for instance on a $100K 355, and how much are they willing to give up? |
|