| Author | Message | ||
| Pauli Salmu (Psalmu)
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I just fixed the high idle problem on my "new" 328. The cause was the first thing on the checklist: the floor mat :-) Apparently the previous owner didn't know about this priceless website... | ||
| kelly vince (Tofosi1)
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I just put my plenum back on after changing my coolant hoses on my 1980 308 GTSI. I took the liberty of cleanning the plenum and throttle valve with carb. cleaner, degreaser and water. Now I am regretting the degreaser and water. I let everything dry out and clean up both pieces with mother's aluminum cleaner. Looks very nice. Today when I get it all back together it idles at 3,000 rpm. I turn it off, and restart it goes to idle at 800 but then starts creaping up to around 2,000 RPM. I take it out for a test run(no coolant leaks), I bring it up through the gears at about 5,000 RPM. I now cannot get it to go below 3,000 again. Do you think the cleaning of the throttle body did something to the adjust screw. Or do you think I have a vacumm leak. The cold start sensor on my coolant tank is loop back. Also,I have always had a problem where when the car is hot it will not start for 1 hour. I replaced the thermal time switch during this process. It still will not start when hot. You can tell the cold start fuel injector is still shooting fuel in. You can smell gas. I unpluged the cold start fuel injector and the car starts right up. of course at 3,000 RPM. Any advise is always appericated. Thanks kelly | ||
| Herbert E. Gault (Irfgt)
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No. | ||
| Joe Trentmann (Seglermann)
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Is there any permanent adverse affect from jumping the two wires that prevent high idle on startup? Am I losing anything? Thanks in advance, Joe | ||
| Joe Trentmann (Seglermann)
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Thanks Herbert & Joe G. The coolant level was fine, so I jumpered the two wires, and all is well! Now, I don't have to worry about the idle. How about the Ferrari 1-2 in Monaco! Thanks, Joe T. | ||
| Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
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Bret, you make a good point. It always seemed to me to be torture on the engine when I first start it and it goes to 3000 Revs. I will be cutting back the rpms before I start it again. MAGOO | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
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Nick knows about adjusting the high idle settings, so if you have any questions just email him. | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
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Peter, You wanna have that low an idle. You could go up to about 1500 when it's cold and in high idle mode. The higher idle of like 2500 rpms weren't designed into the car, and subsequently wont be found on the Euro cars. This high an idle was mandated by the DOT in their ongoing fight against emissions. It's not good to have your car idle at 2500-3000 rpms when it is cold, so be happy that yours doesn't. | ||
| HEATH VAUGHN (Heath)
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MY FLOOR MATS CAME WITH VELCRO GLUED TO THE FLOOR PANELS THIS ARANGEMENT HAS KEPT MY MATS IN PLACE. PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG BUT I THINK ON A MONDIAL 3 LITER COLD IDLE IS 2100 RPM'S, AS THE ENGIN WARMS IT REDUCES TO 1100 RPM'S. HEATH | ||
| Peter Boray (Gts308qv)
|
Just out of interest, my 308GTSQV idles at 8-900 revs when first started up cold, then slowly goes up to 1100 revs as the engine heats up and stays at that level. Usually takes about 2-3 seconds of churning before the engine comes to life. Does that sound OK or sould it have a higher idle when cold. Only get to drive it once or twice a week. | ||
| Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
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I don't know if it would be "financially responsible to hit whatever" but I do know the engine revs would be awesome. So we agree the best thing to do is secure the mats. RALPH | ||
| Craig Dewey (Craigfl)
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I took the adhesive and glued down my mats after it happened to me. I don't think you want to push the clutch in -- 1500RPM under load will go to 10,000 RPM clutch in-no load. It might be financially responsible to hit whatever..... | ||
| Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
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I know what your thinking, "Well there's always pushing in on the clutch." Yeah if, you think fast enough, or aren't looking at a fine piece strolling down the sidewalk. MAGOO | ||
| Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
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Why don't you guys fasten those mats to the floor. If someone takes his foot off the gas pedal coming to a intersection and the car keeps on going. You get the picture. Or maybe it will never happen to me. I'll bet you guys think I work for Ralph Nader. Regards MAGOO | ||
| James Pai (Jaymus)
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 I think we all have done that at some point. Same thing here, I was freaked out at first, and thought I had cruise control. James | ||
| Doug Meredith (Doug308)
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It took me over 375 miles after I bought the car in Atlanta and drove home to Louisville to figure the carpet thing out. I thought I had some magical cruise control kicking in for my long journey in the newly purchased beast. | ||
| Herbert E. Gault (Irfgt)
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I was being a smart ass. I answered the question after I read the solution. Even though I have seen this happen a number of times, sometimes you overlook the obvious simple solution and don't see the forest for the trees. | ||
| Michael A. Niles (Man90tr)
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So Herbert you too have experienced the Ferrari mat induced fast idle. This happened the first week I had the car and had a good laugh when I realized that it was the floor mat. I use it now to keep the idle up around 1500 rpms on colder days a little longer than the auto fast idle -- gives my feet a rest for a couple minutes. | ||
| Herbert E. Gault (Irfgt)
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Your floor mat could be resting on the accelerator pedal. | ||
| Craig Dewey (Craigfl)
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S. Long... Don't feel bad, the same thing happened to me. | ||
| S. Long (Sml)
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...or I can just back-off the floor mat which is pressing on the accelerator. Sometimes its best not to overlook the obvious. However, I do thank all that have responded. | ||
| Kurt Kjelgaard (Kurtk328)
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A more radical way to make the aux. air valve go to the cold position is to remove it and put it in the freezer for 10-15 minutes. When you then look through it, you should see light. Not a completely round hole but somewhat odd sized opening. By the way, the plug to the safety circuit switch on the airflow sensor is the blue one (on a 328) - a little difficult to get at in the triangle between the air filter box, airflow sensor body and the forward wall of the luggage compartment. Easiest will be to remove the air filter box - still don't touch the throttle plate when system is pressurized. brgds Kurt | ||
| Kurt Kjelgaard (Kurtk328)
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Steve and S. Long There are two hoses also on a 328. Since they are exactly opposite each other you can do a visual check. Hoses off - cold engine - look through valve - should see daylight through a partly open valve. If no opening - replace valve. If daylight - disconnect plug to safety circuit switch on the airflow sensor. Turn ignition on - don't start engine (fuel pump operates - don't lower airflow sensor plate - this will send fuel to the intake manifold = drowning). After 10 minutes maximum, the aux air valve should be closed. Inside the valve is a bimetal heating element, that gradually heats up and closes the valve. If not, pull connector at aux. air valve, check voltage to be min. 11.5 volts, ign. on, engine stopped. If OK check valve heating element continuity with ohmmeter. Should be OK - if not, replace valve. If valve and power supply is OK, you will need to do a basic idle adjustment. I described this in an earlier posting. Good luck - lets hear about your progress. brgds Kurt | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
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S. Long -- I shouldn't have necessarily said: "pull the 2 air hoses off of the auxillary air valve..." as this describes the auxillary air valve on TRs using K-Jetronic -- I don't know if the 328 aux air valve is exactly the same, but the principle is -- somehow manually "close" the aux air valve to see if this drops your idle speed. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
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S.Long -- Welcome to the joys associated with a (complex) injected engine (sorry, couldn't help myself). I don't think you'll be able to solve the problem by adjusting the (idle) air bypass screw as it doesn't have much RPM range -- although you could still try this (make a mark on the head of the screw and count turns so you can return it to its original postion easily). However, before you do that, there's one simple thing that you can check: The FNA website lists 328's as using Bosch K-Jetronic -- if so, try to locate the auxillary air valve (usually there's a good figure in the Owners Manual showing the various inj. components if you don't have a WSM). This auxillary air valve should be "open" only when the engine is cold and "closed" shortly after engine lightoff or with the engine warm. With the engine warm, pull the 2 air hoses off of the auxillary air valve and block them both physically (simulating the "closed" condition) -- if your idle speed drops to normal then you've found the problem. Just a thought... | ||
| S. Long (Sml)
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cable is free and clear...any other solutions? What about the idle screw...should I adjust, or am I asking for trouble? | ||
| Sam NYCFERRARIS (Sam)
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check that the throttle cable mechanism is not stuck or hung up --- this can happen if you don't drive the car often | ||
| S. Long (Sml)
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Similar issue with my 1989 328 GTS...it idles about 2500-3000 rpm...any solutions? It is as easy as turning down the idle screw? | ||
| Joe Trentmann (Seglermann)
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Thanks for the quick responses! I'll give it a try & let you know what happens. Joe | ||
| Joe galuoppo (Joeg)
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Mine did the same thing, Herb's right, it was my sensor on the fill tank. | ||
| Herbert E. Gault (Irfgt)
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Remove the two wires at the switch on the coolant tank below the radiator fill cap and jumper them together and that should correct it. If it does you need a new switch or the coolant is dangerously low. | ||
| Joe Trentmann (Seglermann)
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The fast idle will not disengage, and the instrument light on the right will not go out like it did in the past. Is there a way to disconnect the fast idle or correct this situation? Thanks, Seglermann/Joe |