| Author |
Message |
Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
| | Posted on Sunday, May 13, 2001 - 7:28 am: | |
SAM, You're not boring anyone. If you have a question that is what this chat line is for. Nobody knows it all. MAGOO |
Mike Dawson (Miked)
| | Posted on Sunday, May 13, 2001 - 12:16 am: | |
I agree with Steve, the proper filter is essential. The dipstick on my GT4 always showed a BIG difference (1"-1 1/2") between cold and hot (as measured within 1 min. after shutdown) which I attributed to drainback from the oil cooler. One day, in order to access the carb mounting bolts, I removed the UNI oil filter and to my surprise it was completely drained! Apparently the anti-drainback valve was not sealing and was allowing the oil to drain out in the other direction away from the standpipe.
With all the controversy over UNI filters, I decided to look for alternatives. Baldwin would be one although they are sometimes hard to find. Parts suppliers dealing in commercial or agricultual vehicles are the best Baldwin source. Many diesel engines use filters mounted upside down, my Oliver tractor is one example.
Taking the time to look through some filter catalogs revealed several possibilities. The larger catalogs list the specs of each filter, usually there are several derivatives of a popular type. For example, Puralator lists L30001 for a '77 308 GT4 which is a filter that also "fits" many Ford and Chrysler engines but it doesn't have a standpipe. Some of it's derivatives are L39001 ("high performance"), L40017 (2 gt. capacity) and several others with different pressure relief valve settings, with or w/o anti-drainback valves or various flow ratings but none were listed as having a standpipe except for L30137 which is spec'd for a Perkins diesel. The pressure relief valve setting and gal/min. flow rate were about the same as L30001. The crossover chart showed it's NAPA equivalent is 1806 and the Baldwin website crossover lists BT216. I don't have a Baldwin catalog so I can't compare B253 and BT216. BTW, some other Baldwin crossovers are L30001=B2, L39001=B252, L40017=BT251 and another Perkins spec'd possibility is L40107=BT237. I bought a NAPA Gold 1806 at the nearby NAPA distribution center/store (they always have the oddball parts in stock). Looking into the filter one can easily see the standpipe. I will have to gain some experience with it before claiming victory. Since then I found a local source for Baldwin so I might go that route at the next oil change. |
Sam NYCFERRARIS (Sam)
| | Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2001 - 1:34 am: | |
STEVE, thanks for pointing me in the right direction, I would hate to revisit an old, settled issue and bore everyone...many thanks. i will check search more often before asking. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
| | Posted on Friday, May 11, 2001 - 11:57 am: | |
Sam -- the "special" thing in the oil filters for the inverted 308 application is an internal standpipe on the central oil outlet (this holds more oil in the oil filter case after shutoff IF the anti-drain-back valve is working well -- not always the situation on the Fram). There are 3 filters that have this internal standpipe construction:
1. stock UFI (over-priced IMHO)
2. Fram PH2804-1 (not the best quality IMHO)
3. Baldwin B253 (best value IMHO)
Do a search on "Baldwin" and you should get to the previous messages/threads where this issue has been discussed (ad nauseam). |
Sam NYCFERRARIS (Sam)
| | Posted on Friday, May 11, 2001 - 11:46 am: | |
In my QV Owners Manual it specs a FRAM 2804-1 filter but I rarely see this on 308's. I also saw there is a AC Delso filter out there for a QV but I am not sure about this "relief valve business" Also we all have really big 'ole white UFI filters we get from the aftermarket guys but that is not found in any Owners book I ever saw. So what are guys using? and what is with the relif valve, can we jsut go down to PEP BOYS and get an AC or Purolator or do we really have to pay bigger bucks for a UFI (are we suckers when we don't have to be?) |
Peter Boray (Gts308qv)
| | Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2001 - 9:34 pm: | |
I understand incorrect oil filter will give eratic oil level readings as some, although fit, do not have retaining valve . Correct me if I am wrong. |
Peter Boray (Gts308qv)
| | Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2001 - 9:28 pm: | |
Not being over pedantic, but I always open the engine bay and have a quick check around at heater hoses, wires, coolant etc AND check oil level before I start. Also check oil about two minutes after shutdown. Over a few weeks you get a feel for what is the right level. Cold, gives me
a little over max. Hot gives me right on the mark
or fractionally under and I keep it at that level. |
Jeff K (Jbk)
| | Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2001 - 8:02 pm: | |
I quote from the owners manual for a 77 308GTB: "Check engine oil level every 300 mls using the suitable dipstick B... Carry out this operation with warm engine just after stopping; in this way radiator oil does not discharge into the sump".
I have found the oil level is higher with a cold engine. I usually open the rear deck and then start up and let it run for about 3 or 4 minutes. Then shut down and check it as soon as I can get out of the seat and around back. This seems to give consistent readings with when I check it after a driving session (again, as soon as I can after shutting down). |
Neil Green (Neilg)
| | Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2001 - 1:40 pm: | |
A Ferrari mechanic at Wide World of Cars once told me on the 308 to check the oil (wet sump Carbed model) right after shut down. He also suggested twisting the dipstick in its socked several times before pulling it out to get a consistent reading. It's worked great for me when I check it this way. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
| | Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2001 - 12:25 pm: | |
I think the best reference for the "proper" method to check the engine oil level is as stated in the correct year/model/version Owners Manual. On all the dry-sump cars, I believe the time after shutoff to do the checking is specified as something like "a few seconds" or "just after its stopping" -- while the times specified for the wet-sump cars are more "variable" (my recollection is that the US carbed wet-sump OMs say "just after its stopping", but the US injected wet-sump OMs say a minute or 2 -- but don't quote me on that)
There is a low oil pressure warning light on 308s, but no low oil level warning light (however the low pressure light will come on if the oil level gets very, very low). |
Michael A. Niles (Man90tr)
| | Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2001 - 12:06 pm: | |
The oil should be checked with a warm engine. usually within 1 to 2 minutes after shutdown. A cold engine reading is not accurate. what you need to do is start the car run until warmed to about 150-160 degrees, shut off , then check the oil. To be consistent check the oil the same way everytime.
I have no idea if there is a low oil pressure light in the 308. |
marc dubuc (Madub)
| | Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2001 - 11:29 am: | |
I must say I don't quite understand anything anymore. I just came back from a 3000 miles trip with my 308. The car drove fine for the all trip. It was my first long trip so I was a bit scare of having some trouble. But everything went fine except for the oil. Everytime I checked the oil gauge, the level was very low (under minimum). I checked the oil in the morning with a cold engine, then after having driven the car for an hour. I basically checked the oil at any moment.During my 3000miles trip, I added a total of 4 liters of oil and still everytime the gauge was low. Then when I came back home, I left the car for 2 weeks without starting the engine. Then last week, before to drive the car, I check the oil gauge again and this time the level was way above Maximum. I don't undestand. Is there something wrong with the car? What is the proper way of checking the oil? Is there a light signaling when oil really need to be added?
Thanks for your feedback. |
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