| Author | Message | ||
| Michael * (Kmx)
New member Username: Kmx Post Number: 7 Registered: 8-2002 |
Thanks for all the help! My gut instinct has been that it was merely a clutch/gas combination that I just haven't worked out fluently yet (much different that my old 308!). However, I gave it a nice 6 minute warm up this morning, and there was no difference. If I recall correctly, it does it even when I have been driving it for a few hours.. if I use more or perk the gas its no problem, but if I have to stop for a second (perhaps to look in the mirrors) then it commonly will die (clutch in of course). There is also a very noticeable amount of gas/exhaust smell (I assume this is normal though; backing up into it and all?). I can and don't mind accomodating all of this by simply giving the gas a perk or two when needed, I just want to find out if there are any problems that all of you experienced owners would catch  btw, any of you use your car as a daily driver? thanks again! Michael | ||
| bruce wellington (Bws88tr)
Member Username: Bws88tr Post Number: 724 Registered: 4-2002 |
michael listen to steve, he knows what he is talking about and a true gentleman here for his positive support always.. my opinion. let it warm for 5 mins,and then correctly correlate clutch and gas, maybe thats all you need to do good luck bruce | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 924 Registered: 1-2001 |
While I wouldn't argue too strongly that a cold US TR is not somewhat tempermental, you can have problems that mess-up the cold-running phase and yet not adversely affect the warm operation (or vice-a-versa). There is a separate thermo-switch on the thermostat housing (that opens at a coolant temperature of 63 deg C) to tell the KE inj. ECUs which mode (cold or warm) they should be in (and it triggers various other things too when cold and closed --e.g., activating the relay that activates the air pump clutch, activating the diff. pressure switch that controls the relay that controls the cold start injectors to add extra enrichment when cold and the intake manifold pressure drops quickly, etc.). One can never be sure it's all working right, but my TR isn't too horrible cold. Anyway, I just wanted to point out why, IMO, if you have to wait for the warm operation phase (which occurs on my TR when the cockpit water temp gauge is about 1/2 way between the 140 and 195 deg F marks) you probably have some minor problem in the hardware involved with the cold-running phase. Michael* -- If the engine itself is truly at <40 deg F deg I'd expect the aux air valves to be open a bit and the light-off RPM should maybe be something like 1500~1800 RPM (and if the aux air valves are open, it's helpful if the thermo-time switch stuff is working well so the cold start injectors give a short burst of fuel, 1~2 sec?, during cranking.) My garage air temp gets down to 35~40 deg F on winter mornings, but if I put the TR away warm the night before the engine itself isn't actually that cold. PS -- do you know your actual version TR ("euro" is too broad) or type of injection system (K-Jetronic, KE-Jetronic without lambda, KE-Jetronic with lambda)? | ||
| Glen Mckenna (Johndillinger)
New member Username: Johndillinger Post Number: 15 Registered: 7-2002 |
I think Michael is right, sounds like a normal TR - my 90 needs a little waking up b4 its ready to hit the road, it also takes a little getting use to, considering its not a toyota. great car - just wish there was a long open highway without state troopers here in Clearwater | ||
| Michael N. (Man90tr)
Member Username: Man90tr Post Number: 625 Registered: 4-2001 |
I have a TR and it sounds like you are not letting the engine "catch itself". Its not a toyota where you jump in, start and then drive off in 30 seconds. It takes mine a couple minutes after starting to be completely settled and then another 4 minutes before it wants to drive right. Been doing this for 20,000 miles and runs great. Do this, start the car, let it warm for 5 minutes like Bruce says then reverse. The key is this -- does it do this after you have driven the car and its warmed? If not, then you are asking too much too quickly. If it does stall after after being wamed, it could be that you have a clutch where you need to learn where the engage point is -- might be past it when you hit the gas. You have only had the car a month so you are smart to ask questions, cause sounds like you have a normal TR that needs to "stretch" in the morning before driving. Welcome and enjoy the car!! | ||
| Michael * (Kmx)
New member Username: Kmx Post Number: 5 Registered: 8-2002 |
5 min? no, not that long. under a minute, if any. is there a technical reason that the car should be "warmed up" (assuming warm weather), rather than just taking it easy for the first ~5 mins? What about when the engine is cold (32-40 F weather)? | ||
| bruce wellington (Bws88tr)
Member Username: Bws88tr Post Number: 719 Registered: 4-2002 |
michael these cars have to be warmed up for about 5 mins or so, do you warm it up?? my tr has no problem in reverse,it is warmed up and idles about 800-1000 bruce | ||
| Michael * (Kmx)
New member Username: Kmx Post Number: 3 Registered: 8-2002 |
Is it just that I'm new to the car (1 month now! woo!) and am not quite used to everything, or is there something wrong? When I backup, it is very common that the car will die.. almost like its getting flooded.. if I give it more gas, it is fine.. but if it is a tricky backup operation, its likely to die a few times.. FYI (according to the dash gauge) my idle appears to be a hair under 1000 .. |