| Author | Message | ||
| Jim E (Jimpo1)
Member Username: Jimpo1 Post Number: 737 Registered: 7-2001 |
I got the car back today. The culprit was....maybe the relay. All they did was replace the relay, and it works fine. It's good to have it back. | ||
| KARL DASTOLI (Luch)
Junior Member Username: Luch Post Number: 65 Registered: 2-2001 |
Jim, the quiet swishing noise you are hearing is your starter spinnig freely because your solenoid is not engaging the pinion which turns the flywheel and starts the car. When it's engaged you can't hear your starter spinning over the gear noise. LUCH | ||
| Jim E (Jimpo1)
Member Username: Jimpo1 Post Number: 719 Registered: 7-2001 |
Russ, my top was sanded and painted by a previous owner. He also painted the spoiler a flat black. I won't win any concours, but I love the way it looks. | ||
| Kurt Kjelgaard (Kurtk328)
Junior Member Username: Kurtk328 Post Number: 127 Registered: 3-2001 |
No idea, sorry | ||
| Pauli Salmu (Psalmu)
New member Username: Psalmu Post Number: 41 Registered: 10-2001 |
Thanks, Kurt. Here's something I found with those codes: if you go to http://www.napaonline.com and search with "Non-NAPA Part No." 7-851, you find two slightly different Echlin solenoids, NAPA item numbers ECHST226 and ECHST249. Any idea which (if either) would be the right one? | ||
| Kurt Kjelgaard (Kurtk328)
Junior Member Username: Kurtk328 Post Number: 126 Registered: 3-2001 |
Just checked Ace Electric - looks like their substitute would be 7-851 | ||
| Kurt Kjelgaard (Kurtk328)
Junior Member Username: Kurtk328 Post Number: 125 Registered: 3-2001 |
Bosch no. for solenoid: 0 331 303 032. Complete starter: 0 001 110 004 (incl. solenoid) | ||
| Pauli Salmu (Psalmu)
New member Username: Psalmu Post Number: 40 Registered: 10-2001 |
I'm having similar problems with my 328. Does anyone have handy the Bosch product code for the 328 solenoid (or a cross-reference from e.g. http://www.aceelectric.com/PDF/S/SolBG01.pdf)? | ||
| Russ Fairbanks (Russf)
Junior Member Username: Russf Post Number: 52 Registered: 3-2002 |
Jim E. Is your white targa top a special order from the factory or did youpaint it. Sure looks sharp on a white car. | ||
| Jim E (Jimpo1)
Member Username: Jimpo1 Post Number: 714 Registered: 7-2001 |
Off to Norwoods it went today. Had to go on the flatbed. Stay tuned, nothing I tried worked. | ||
| Peter Connolly (Mondial_32_aus)
Junior Member Username: Mondial_32_aus Post Number: 78 Registered: 8-2001 |
I had a similar problem with my Mondial 3.2. It was intermitent to make matters worse! It used to usually be ok cold and hot but if you left it for more than 10-15 minutes after a run then it wouldn't crank. It just kinda buzzed as if you had a low battery. As other have suggested, you must get under the car and short the starter direct in your fault finding. If it cranks strong everytime then you should work backwards from there to the fuse box or switch. Any competent auto electrican of any sort can do that. My problem turned out to be the ignition switch, apparently they fail often as they pass a lot of current through the switch rather than using relays, dumb, huh? When I worked this out I used to remove the steering shroud and spray electrical contact cleaner into the switch whilst turning the key rapidly. This usually fixed it for a few months until it needed it again. Another way I proved it was to hit the top of the dash shroud whilst cranking and it would also sometimes fire then too! Another way to prove the switch theory is to remove the sterring shroud and cut into the ig wires and short them at that point, if it cranks then the switch is stuffed. Do you think I could buy a new ignition switch? No way! Unless you wanted to spend US$1000 on a new steering assembly just to get the switch! After lots of hunting I found that the ignition switch is made by Sepia of Italy and that Alfa's of the same vintage also used the switch, US$50 and readily available! Beware that there are mainly 3 wire versions available for the Alfa's but some have 4 wire, you ideally need 4 wire but 3 wire will work too but you will need to have the ignition completely on to get power to your accessories. See my site under Service History for more detail and pictures of the offending ignition switch. PC http:/fly.to/mondial   | ||
| BobD (Bobd)
Member Username: Bobd Post Number: 613 Registered: 3-2001 |
Jim, I've always heard white 328s were problem prone. Here's a nice red one with ABS at auction with no reserve: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1853598435 | ||
| Jim E (Jimpo1)
Member Username: Jimpo1 Post Number: 701 Registered: 7-2001 |
I would Bob, but I can't seem to find any nice red ones. | ||
| Lawrence Coppari (Lawrence)
Junior Member Username: Lawrence Post Number: 227 Registered: 4-2002 |
This is obvious, but have you cleaned your battery terminals? Bad connections screw many things up. Bad grounds are particularly notorious | ||
| BobD (Bobd)
Member Username: Bobd Post Number: 607 Registered: 3-2001 |
...with ABS, of course. | ||
| BobD (Bobd)
Member Username: Bobd Post Number: 606 Registered: 3-2001 |
Jim, why don't you sell it and buy a red one? | ||
| Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member Username: Caribe Post Number: 401 Registered: 2-2001 |
Jim, from what I read so far it seems to me that the problem might be your starter solenoid. Perhaps it has gone bad after the rebuilt, if it was changed. It might be worth a try to check it. Good luck! | ||
| billy bob (Fatbillybob)
New member Username: Fatbillybob Post Number: 21 Registered: 8-2002 |
phil, easy way is to try a remote starter. If it works then you isolated prob to the key switch circuit | ||
| phil hooper (Wolftalk)
New member Username: Wolftalk Post Number: 32 Registered: 5-2002 |
the only things in the circuit are the ignition switch and a few connectors on the way to the starter motor relay (internal to the starter). the juice comment seems kinda odd. if there is dirty contacts in the circuits, then the current will get limited and possibly not power the starter motor relay sufficiently, but I woulda thought the solution is to clean up the contacts rather than bypass them. the starter motor itself gets it power from huge wire directly from the battery when the starter relay is powered via the ignition switch. if the starter motor is spinning but not engaging the flywheel, then the starter needs to be yanked out to see why. if the starter motor is not spinning, you could run a jumper wire directly from the battery wire to the relay wire on the starter and see what happens. If that works, then the problem is in the ignition switch or connectors along the way - probably dirty pins in the connectors. | ||
| billy bob (Fatbillybob)
New member Username: Fatbillybob Post Number: 20 Registered: 8-2002 |
1- if you can roll start your car you know everything works except the starting circuit on fuel or spark 2- if you crank and get no spark you have an electrical prob. 3-if you use an external battery or swap out another battery and it won't engage the starter your starter is bad. 4- if you get spark and no start spray in some ether to confirm a fuel paroblem. | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Junior Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 204 Registered: 8-2001 |
I know this sounds too simple.....but, if your battery is more than 4 years old, then, replace it. The only other option would be bad starter.....unlikely, since it was rebuilt......bad rebuild of starter......or, problem in 'helper relay' wiring. What else can it be? | ||
| Jim E (Jimpo1)
Member Username: Jimpo1 Post Number: 694 Registered: 7-2001 |
I'm back to the 'turn the key, nothing happens" problem. A few months ago I had the starter rebuilt and Norwoods put a 'helper relay' in the ignition system. They said that 328's are notorious for not getting enough juice to the starter. I was going to go out for a short drive tonight and am back to nothing. Lights work, radio works, starter seems to be making a quiet swishing noise that it never made before, almost as if it's spinning without connecting. I don't mind fixing problems, but the recurring ones drive me NUTS! |