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Joel Ames (James)
New member
Username: James

Post Number: 49
Registered: 4-2001
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2002 - 5:12 pm:   

Steve they put rubber gromets at each opening and it is very difficult to get the end of the cable through the gromet, that is why they have the rubber plugs. I noticed there is also one for the throttle cable. Thanks for your help. Joel
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr

Post Number: 1014
Registered: 1-2001
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2002 - 12:03 pm:   

My bad Joel -- now that you mention it, of course I recall that there's a female threaded fitting in the front of the first steel tube to receive the male fitting on the casing. I'd swear though that there is a rubber body plug about 1/2 way back. I actually didn't use it for my install either as (probably like you) I threaded a string to pull the new one thru when withdrawing the old one (but for "pushing" a new cable into a new empty chassis I can see why they provided it).
Joel Ames (James)
New member
Username: James

Post Number: 48
Registered: 4-2001
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2002 - 8:43 am:   

I finished my cable last night.I have a 1978. There is no rubber cover to acces the end of the sheath under the car, you simpply unscrew it from its mount. I was thinking it had a nut on the inside of the floor brace to keep it in place but thats not the case. You have to undo the end going to the pedal first so the sheath can turn when unscrrewing it. Very easy job once you know. Thanks for all the help. Joel
phil hooper (Wolftalk)
New member
Username: Wolftalk

Post Number: 34
Registered: 5-2002
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2002 - 5:38 am:   

on the '80 308, you pull the two rubber plugs to help route the new cable, but you also remove the big metal cover under the forward part of the car to access the clutch cable sheath. On the '80, there's two metal covers. The smaller one right below the gas pedal is for access to the accelerator cable...you don't want that one. You want to remove the wide one that is under the battery/radiator.

inside the car, you disconnect the cable end from the pedal and remove the nut from the cable sheath (there are flats on the threaded part of the sheath that you use a wrench on to keep the sheath from turning).

then under the car, you pull the cable end and sheath out through the floorpan. You can now unscrew the other end of the sheath and pull the rest of the cable out.

if I remember right, there are washers on the two sheath ends which you need to transfer to the new cable. Don't forget, or you'll be pulling the new cable back out to put them on.

to reinstall, poke the cable end through the hole and route it to the bell housing. Here's where you need to remove those to rubber plugs so you can guide the cable through tube sections. Oh yeah, there also may be rubber dust caps on the ends of some of the tube sections...if so, you need to take them off before pushing through the new cable. The caps have a slot and small center hole so you reinstall them around the cable once it's in place.

install the sheath and connect to the clutch pedal, then adjust the cable for correct free play if appropriate - somewhere around 80/81 ferrari switched to a clutch setup where the TO bearing always contacts the pressure plate...so there is no freeplay. Some earlier cars may have been modified to the newer setup as outlined in one of the service bulletins. If your clutch pedal spring pulls the pedal UP until it hits a stop, you have the older setup.

in the newer setup, the spring is helping pull the pedal down, so you get lighter clutch effort. In this case, you just adjust the cable so the clutch pedal height is level with the brake pedal. As the clutch wears, the pedal raises, so readjustment is needed once in a while.

the other thing to check is the nylon wheel that the clutch cable passes over between the bell housing and the tube going to the front of the car. this wheel is often gunked up/frozen. If it doesn't spin freely, remove it and clean/grease it or replace it.

I expect the 328 is about the same. I'll know next week as I heard the happy sounds of cable strands parting while I was driving home today...and yup, it does sound just like in the movies where the cable is snapping one strand at a time. I got lucky and two strands held, which was just enough to disengage the clutch....probably because I hadn't gotten around to adjusting the pedal height so I had more travel in the pedal than I was supposed to. Procrastination pays off!
Joel Ames (James)
New member
Username: James

Post Number: 46
Registered: 4-2001
Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 6:43 pm:   

Steve I love you man. Thanks. I haven't looked yet but I just didn't know where to look. I really can't believe this stumped me. Thanks a million. Joel.
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr

Post Number: 1011
Registered: 1-2001
Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 6:14 pm:   

Joel -- (IIRC) there are 2 rubber body plugs (maybe 40~50mm in size) in the sheetmetal on the bottom of the car:

1. to access the lower nut you mentioned and

2. about 1/2 way between the steel tubes that the clutch cable runs thru.

I definitely did not have to remove the driver's floor to do this project on my ex-'78 (the rubber body plugs could be sort of hidden under some undercoating)
Joel Ames (James)
New member
Username: James

Post Number: 45
Registered: 4-2001
Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 5:49 pm:   

My clutch cable broke and I am haveing a problem finding how to access the nuts on the lower part of the plastic sheath. How in the heck do you get to it? What I am seeing is that you have to drill the rivits on the drivers floor and remove the floor. I want to wait until one of you fellows get back because I just dont think that should be the way to do it. Thanks again for all the help I have recieved from everybody. Anybody done this procedure? Thanks.

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