| Author | Message | ||
| Eric Eiland (Eric308gtsiqv)
Junior Member Username: Eric308gtsiqv Post Number: 232 Registered: 11-2001 |
Heath: thank you for the ideas on solving the fuel pump fuse heat problem. You're right about that fuse getting extremely hot -- I was worried it would melt the plastic cover as well! Think that I did stumble across the thread that you mentioned and I'll take another look at it. Stu: Bret is right about the QV models -- the dimmer switch was relocated below the "Unleaded Fuel Only" pin, and it is rectangular with a wheel type knob (similar to the dimmers found on modern vehicles). The only knob on the instrument cluster is the trip miles reset knob. I pried the face plate off of the dimmer switch this morning to take a look a the inner-workings of the switch -- nothing really to look at. It appears that the switch itself must be removed from behind / underneath the dash which may be tricky do to all the wiring harness / cables in the way. Even bypassing the switch appears to be a bit of a job due to all those wires (very tight to get at under there). Any suggestions / tips from previous experiences on doing this? Thanks. Oh -- forgot to mention -- the "newer" style dimmer switch is not depicted in the U.S. Version 308 QV Spare Parts Catalog. Only the older dual knob setup like Stu's -- go figure! I'll post some part number(s) as soon as I figure it out. | ||
| HEATH VAUGHN (Heath)
Junior Member Username: Heath Post Number: 136 Registered: 2-2001 |
ERIC I had a my number 4 fuse (fuel pump) get so hot it melted the plastic fuse holder. I ended up replacing the whole circut board "ouch" the newer clip in fues don't get as warm. last year their was a string on ferrarichat from a fellow in dallas he put an inlne fuse in the engin compartment it solved his hot fuel pump fuse problem. | ||
| stu cordova (Balataboy)
Junior Member Username: Balataboy Post Number: 208 Registered: 4-2001 |
Must be a "EURO" vs "US" thing??? | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2064 Registered: 2-2001 |
On the QVs (at least on mine) the dimmer is between that spare change thing on the left side of the dash, and the steering wheel. It's right below/next to that Unleaded Fuel Only emblem on the dash. If you unplug the wires from the back of the switch (just 2 or 3 of them) then the switch would come out the front of the dash (if you pushed hard enough and maybe did a little cutting). Better just to leave it in for aesthetics and hard wire it. I'm surprised you can't find those fuses, they have them everywhere near me. I have a mix of those and older ceramic ones in. No fuses have burned out lately (before I stopped driving it) which is interesting. | ||
| stu cordova (Balataboy)
Junior Member Username: Balataboy Post Number: 206 Registered: 4-2001 |
Eric, Interestingly, the dimmer switch seems to be in different places on different years of 308's. Never figered this one out???? Where is yours? My Rheostat bypass was easy, as it is located on the intstument pod - next to the odometer reset knob. To bypass it, you have to remove the instrument pod first (well, actually remove the steering wheel first, then the pod) and let it fall out. There you will be able to easily get to the switch. You can do as Bret nicely described, or what I did was simply disconnect the switch and connect the three wires together with clips, tape it up and you're done. It did make my dash lights a bit brighter and, as most of us, I don't miss the dimmer because I never dimmed them anyway! Good luck! | ||
| Richelson (Richelson)
Member Username: Richelson Post Number: 653 Registered: 12-2001 |
I purchase my euro glass pointed fuses at Advanced Auto. | ||
| Eric Eiland (Eric308gtsiqv)
Junior Member Username: Eric308gtsiqv Post Number: 223 Registered: 11-2001 |
Thanks a million, Bret, for the tip and info. -- sounds like a simple and effective solution -- I'll give it a try and keep everyone posted. Hopefully, I won't screw something up in the process  . I'm like you -- would rather not have a dimmer switch to begin with. Was looking at this switch tonight and, viewing from the tangled mess of wire looms under the dash, wondered how a person could go about changing the dimmer switch in the first place -- must need to be some sort of contortionist. Does this dimmer switch simply pop out of the front of the dash for replacement? Mark: I tried another local PepBoys, but the only GBC fuses in stock were the "ceramic" ones like I purchased earlier. The glass (clear tubular) fuses in stock (various diameters / lengths) all had flat metal ends. I'll keep looking though. | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2056 Registered: 2-2001 |
Sorry Eric, I wasn't thinking when I first read this. I had my dash lights somewhat mysteriously go out. They started flickering off occasionally, which led to eventually only being on occasionally. I turned the rheostat all the way down (keep them off) until I found out the problem. It wound up being a loose connection in the rheostat itself. I never fixed it because getting the rheostat out on my car would've required me to cut the leather back a little (probably would've been covered up by the switch, but didnt want to do it). What I did do is hard wire it so the dashlights simply have brightest as their only setting (actually a bit brighter than they can be made with the rheostat). I never dim them so it works for me. It was a simple job, I made up a wire about 4 inches long and put male (maybe female, it was a long time ago, but both the same sex I'm pretty sure) connectors on the ends. Then I just plugged the wires that came into the back of the rheostat into this. I did it a long time ago, like over a year so I'm not 100% of details, but it was a simple fix, just plug in and it's hard wired. BTW, you can pick up the rheostat switches for about $75 at the dealership (or at least at mine). Still not worth it for me to replace though, it's better now. Since this is such an easy thing to check I would try it first before going crazy. | ||
| Eric Eiland (Eric308gtsiqv)
Junior Member Username: Eric308gtsiqv Post Number: 222 Registered: 11-2001 |
Thanks Mark...I'll try a different PepBoys tonight (have to take the wife out to dinner this evening since the kids are sleeping over at the grandparent's place -- YIKES! This looks like it could interfere with troubleshooting the 308)  . Did some checking around on the web this afternoon and found a link to a page that sort of spells out the procedure for bypassing the rheostat -- will have to read up on this one and give it a try -- especially since a new one goes for around $200. | ||
| Mark C. Gordon (Markg)
Junior Member Username: Markg Post Number: 147 Registered: 2-2001 |
I got my glass 'GBC' fuses at local PEP boys-type parts store, they shouldn't be too difficult to locate; I can loose my dash lights just by bumping the rheostat switch, I will be removing it from the circuit by by-passing it soon. You might be onto something looking at rheostat!! | ||
| Eric Eiland (Eric308gtsiqv)
Junior Member Username: Eric308gtsiqv Post Number: 221 Registered: 11-2001 |
Mark...where did you find the GBC glass fuses? I tried PepBoys, but with no luck. Just curious, as I'd like to purchase a complete set since I'll be tearing into the fuse box tonight. As far as the dash instrument light problem goes, things seem to be pointing more and more to the rheostat dimmer switch -- especially since adjusting it up or down never seemed to dim or brighten the lighting before that I can recall. Additionally, the small green headlamp indicator light on the speedometer lights up (as do the turn signal indicator lights when in use). Both the lighting for the speedo, tach, oil, water, clock, and fuel level gauges, as well as the underside of the handbrake lever lighting does not work -- but the headlamps, etc. controlled by the main stalk do operate (so I don't necessarily suspect a bad stalk lever switch, hopefully) -- which seems to point to either a bad dimmer switch or blown #14 (E') fuse (not sure about this one yet since I haven't checked the front right and rear left parking lights). Do I seem to be on the right track here? | ||
| Eric Eiland (Eric308gtsiqv)
Junior Member Username: Eric308gtsiqv Post Number: 220 Registered: 11-2001 |
Frank: thanks for sharing your experience -- I'll check the amperage on mine. Perhaps my fuel pump is "dragging" as well. | ||
| Frank Terhaar-Yonkers (Fty)
New member Username: Fty Post Number: 2 Registered: 7-2001 |
I just went thru the "hot fuse" thing with my '85 Cabriolet. I was told that the pump *should* draw 8-10 amps. Mine was drawing more like 17a. If the fuse is hot, you know it's drawing a LOT more than 8-10a. Shortly after I noticed the fuse was hot, it popped (this is a 20A fuse). A new fuse would keep it running for weeks. Eventually, a new fuse didn't fix it either. Solution - new fuel pump. | ||
| Eric Eiland (Eric308gtsiqv)
Junior Member Username: Eric308gtsiqv Post Number: 218 Registered: 11-2001 |
Thanks so far for your input. Sorry I didn't respond sooner (been real hectic this morning). I did some further troubleshooting looking for the obvious last night. Didn't find anything out of the ordinary with respect to the instrument light problem. I'll look into purchasing some glass GBC fuses today and give them a try. I'm beginning to suspect either the rheostat dimmer switch or the headlamp stalk lever at the steering wheel (this would control the instrument lights, correct?). How can you tell I haven't driven the 308 very much at night? I do have an Electric Circuit Manual for the QV, but it does not make much sense to me since I'm not an electrical engineer. Would there be a relay that would come into play with the instrument light circuit? I've been told that the fuel pump fuse on the 308's do regularly get very hot. I'm just scared that I might have an electric fire on my hands one day on this account. Greg: I purchased the "euro" type ceramic fuses at Pep Boys. They are color coded with respect to amperage (red, white, and blue if I remember correctly). It appears that fuse #14 controls the instrument panel lights (in addition to other items). Would this be correct? The interior light (above, between the sunvisors) works fine (fuse #6?). Also, the small round warning indicator lights on the dash work -- only the instrument gauge lights and emergency brake handle light (underside) do not work. Any more ideas? Thanks. | ||
| Mark C. Gordon (Markg)
Junior Member Username: Markg Post Number: 146 Registered: 2-2001 |
Simple swap, galss GBC fuses are designed to replace the ceramic fuses, have bullet ends formed just like the ceramic. I was skeptical that something as simple as an un-noticed cracked ceramic portion of the fuse could be so detrimental, but seems that it was in my case. I purchased several automotive electrical workshop manuals, and one of them actually had a sub-chapter on ceramic fuses and all their problems! | ||
| Greg Owens (Owens84qv)
Member Username: Owens84qv Post Number: 266 Registered: 10-2001 |
Eric, mind me asking where you purchased your "euro" ceramic fuses? One of these days mine are sure to go and I'd like to have a source handy. Also Mark, is it a simple parts swap to go from euro ceramic fuses to glass GBC fuses? Thanks. | ||
| Eric Eiland (Eric308gtsiqv)
Junior Member Username: Eric308gtsiqv Post Number: 216 Registered: 11-2001 |
Thanks Mark for your input. The brake lights were indeed working (as were the headlights, turn signals, etc.). My wife was following me home and did notice that all exterior lights were operating. Also, I replaced all the fuses with new "euro" ceramic fuses last month. Perhaps I should give the glass fuses a try. I'll double check fuse #1 tonight. | ||
| Mark C. Gordon (Markg)
Junior Member Username: Markg Post Number: 145 Registered: 2-2001 |
Long shot - but check to see if your brake lights work, some manufacturers tie them in with the dash lights as a warning to driver that there is a blown brake light fuse; my GTSi f/pump fuse sometimes runs hot also. If you still have the original ceramic fuses, replace them with glass GBC fuses, and clean fuse contacts on fuse box while your at it - this simple procedure solved a dead fuel pump issue for me! Double check fuse #1, seems it feeds the relay 'excite' circuits (this was the fuse that was bad in my car) which affects several functions and relays....good luck! | ||
| Eric Eiland (Eric308gtsiqv)
Junior Member Username: Eric308gtsiqv Post Number: 213 Registered: 11-2001 |
Took my son for a ride in the 308 Friday to see the Grandparents. It was dusk, and all interior and exterior lights worked fine on the trip over. However, on the return home a couple of hours later, the dash lights would not illuminate (including the handbrake lamp). I tried fiddling with the dimmer, turning the exterior lights on and off, cycling the hazard switch, etc. but to no avail. Any ideas what could be causing this? Could a faulty alternator be the culprit, or perhaps a bad dimmer/rheostat switch? Can't seem to figure this one out. Fortunately, it did not affect nightime driving since we Ferrari drivers shift by listening to the revs and don't really care how fast we're going, right? . Also: after arriving home, I decided to check out the fuse panels and look for the obvious. That is when I discovered that the fuel pump fuse (3rd fuse to right on driver's side fuse panel) was extremely hot to touch. I've never noticed this before. Is this something that should be of big concern? What might be the culprit - possibly a dragging fuel pump? Thanks in advance for any help on these two problems. |