| Author | Message | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
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Yeah, I went to the local car store and picked up two relays. One worked for my start valve and then the one that they gave me for the fuel pump was the wrong one (it kept the pump at full power all the time when the car was in the on position). I'll pick a couple up soon so that I have some new ones and some spares. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
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Yes, it is critical to get the right type. All of the relays on my GT4 are 5-pin. The only one that failed on me was one made by Stribel, SR9833. The center pin is marked "87b", these aren't too common as ones marked "87a" or just "87". The one that is in my picture below is marked "87". Here are some diagrams I made a while ago, hope it helps:    "30" receives + from battery, "85" and "86" comes from the accessory switch (eg: fan, lights, wipers, etc...). "87" and "87/a/b" goes to the object (eg: fan motor, head light bulbs, wiper motors, etc...). | ||
| Kurt Kjelgaard (Kurtk328)
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Be aware, that even similar looking Bosch relays can have a different terminal layout. I don't remember the exact difference, but check the terminal markings on the relay itself. Both types will fit in the same socket. I once solved a problem on a harvester ( you know, the farming variety), that had a starting problem. Sometimes it would start, sometimes not, only giving a click from the solenoid. Seemed like an intermittent solenoid failure. It turned out that the starter relay was of a wrong type, and changing it to the correct one took care of all problems. brgds Kurt | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
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Craig - The shims where fully adhered/stuck (goop dried to glue) to both the pads and the pistons. The were also taller than the pads which are supposed to slide right in/out like a cassette tape. The fact that they (the shims) were taller caused the pads to be wedged in snug (we didn't see the shims as seperate, at first, thought it was all part of the pads). We ended up having to remove the shims with the pads still in place. This was the major pain, the rest was easy. I hear there are also some other (material) shims out there, who knows. As per the Water Wetter do a search for "wetter" and you'll find some previous posts on that topic, here in San Francisco our heat can't compare to Florida's. Try to use more water (~%80)and less coolant (~%20), if possible. For the ACC it's not quite like that, I'll follow up with another post on that later. It only relative to the key being in the ignition (have to flick to ON, or start the car, to engage the sensor), it's already there courtesy of Ferrari. We just stole the sensor's output and used that to trigger a relay. The door being open (or closed) has nothing to do with it. The relay clicks on the deck (which in turn wakes up the amp). Once it's on it will stay on until the key is removed (no timer). Brett - my local guy here who does all the electiral stuff for me always has a few lying around, as most places that do alarms have to have them for window activation and the like. I didn't pay attention to it's specific markings, altho for your uses I'm sure you would want to. -Ben | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
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I figure I might as well replace the critical relays (fuel pump, start valve, etc) things that will keep the car from running. And then just get some spares for things like headlight motors, etc. | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
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Peter, Yeah I have a bunch of those that I need to replace. There are a couple other ones too. I'll get the numbers. The one that is giving me trouble is another brand of relay though so I'm gonna have to figure out what it's bosch equivalent is (maybe some of those books I have will come in handy). I have one Hella relay in my car too, for the start valve. | ||
| James Pai (Jaymus)
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Man, if anyone wants any relays that's on the TR let me know. I replaced two circuit boards (Got all the relays still) I am not sure if other Ferraris use the same ones. I can't belive I changed out 2 of those boards, the dealer I used to goto never got down to the problem, just replacing parts. So now I am on my third circuit board. Got all the fuses and relays I'll ever need. James | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
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Bret, what kind of relay is it? Any model numbers on it? is it a Bosch or Hella relay? Does it look something like this:  | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
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Hey Ben, where'd you pick up that relay? I'm afraid that my fuel pump relay is going as well. It runs a similar setup to yours. I have checked a couple of the local places but they have yet to have it. | ||
| Craig Dewey (Craigfl)
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Ben.. Great story! The metal shims behind the pads are usually there to prevent squealing. Sometimes they corrode and get stuck to the pad or piston and cause problems. Anyway, it sounds like your squealing problem is cured. Your experience with the water wetter makes me want to try it too. It gets hot here in Florida! Your solution for the ACC position is creative and I will try that. It sounds like you're using some kind of "latch" circuit that keeps the power to the radio only when you turn the ignition on and off. Does it time out or cancel when you open the door? Probably pretty easy to do with a relay... | ||
| Michael A. Niles (Man90tr)
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Cool story. Thanks for sharing it. I look forward to putting in the K&N filter and will give you my report. | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
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What a ride! Well fellow Ferrari enthusiasts, those that have been following this board for sometime may have read that I not long ago got my car back after an extended major (see pics under �Tour de 30k�). And for those that don�t know after the major was completed I had 2 issues that came up which had to be dealt with before I was ready to get on the road. First is continued to have trouble starting, the problem was discovered to be a intermittently failing Tachometeric relay which tells the fuel pumps to put out FULL pressure after it senses that the engine is trying to turn over. The second problem was a stall issue; basically after the car got REALLY hot (one good long drive) the hot idle was set a wee bit too low, the car would just stall out when I let off the gas to hit the clutch. Both items were solved very quickly and without any further complications. Thank you, Thomas McKeller for the drive thru service bay! While I haven�t had a lot of time in the past few weeks to get my TR out on the road, there were 4 modifications, which I was looking forward to doing. 1) In my first few solid drives out, I noticed that once warmed up, my front brakes were squeaking BADLY. It wasn�t too pleasant to roll up to a stop hearing that screeching. I just had all the wheels off and knew there was plenty of meat left on the pads, and the rotors weren�t scored. I went as far as to hunt down (at SteveM�s suggestion) the Granitize goop (for the FRONT surface of the pads). After a long set of instructions from Thomas, I was ready to tackle this de-squeaking myself. We had a really tough time removing the pads, as there were metal shims on the back of them (we weren�t expecting this). Anyone have any idea why there would be shims between the pistons and the pads? These were FULL of orange goop (I�ll bet the CRC brand of disc brake quiet). We were to clean off any remaining old goop, brake dust, etc., we had to wire wheel the backs of the pads to clean them up, a scary sight. We then deglazed the rotors (had to buy the tool for that) and the pads (as well as champhored the pads). Thomas gave me 2 ketchup packets of a VERY VERY VERY thick copper goop that he told me came with Brembo Brake kits (my Testarossa has ATE calipers and Brembo rotors). I was to use this stuff as the disc brake quiet on any metal touching any other metal (as well as the backs of the pads), keeping in mind that there was very little of it to use. Then reinstall (read NO NEW PADS) without the shims. He said he has used the Granitize stuff before as well as the commercial disc brake quiet and basically he recommended that I try this first, then it would always be easy to redo (and add an alternative product) if it became necessary. Once those darned shims were out of there it was cake, I can only think of the horror if we had to put them back in. After 50 miles about half stop and go city driving (they usually would squeak after only about 1 mile of city road), I would have to pronounce this job a resounding SUCCESS!! Now the only sound you hear is my roar, not my squeal. I also have to say I stop a heckuva (how�s that for scientific) lot better. I did have to go near the ends of the earth for that Granitize stuff, so now I have 2 (tiny) unused pricey bottles of it, with some extended instructions on it�s use, care of the maker. I was initially going to try it on one side only to see if there was a significant difference, but decided at last minute to hold off until next time. 2) I added 2 bottles of Red Line Oil�s Water Wetter product to the expansion tank. After a bit of time on the road in order to let it all get into the system and mixed I can say this: When I am traveling at more than 25mph my fans rarely if ever come on. The duration between their duty cycle while sitting in traffic (at idle) has also gotten significantly longer. So the system is cooling more efficiently without as much need for the fans, this should extend the life of the fan motors and the thermal switches on the radiators (to some extent?). That was the intent to some degree. 3) I replaced the stock (new) UFI air filter with the direct replacement K&N lifetime filter. While I didn�t think this was going to make much difference, I guess I under estimate those folks at K&N. The power increase isn�t noticeable at low RPMs but at 2500+ you really feel that extra boost. I was on the freeway doing 65 (in 5th gear) with a slight incline, I punched it and felt a power surge like I had never felt before, under those conditions (in 5th). It just allows more air in, as the engine wants to gulp it down. Not that I would ever say a TR has/had hesitation, but there is a difference. 4) TR�s (as I�m sure I�m not the only one) only have a 3 position ignition switch: OFF, ON & START (momentary). I sometimes like to sit in my car overlook my surroundings (with the car not running) and listen to the stereo. If I did this with the key in the ON position (with the engine not running) then the coils would remain HOT (dash idiot lights on), which is not a good thing. So in order to solve this I created an �ACC� position, where accessories could be run without power running to the rest of the car. This wasn�t as simple as just feeding the stereo constant hot power, that wouldn�t have been acceptable either. Now the key must be in (and you have to have clicked to ON and back to OFF), and the deck will play while the passengers relax and watch the sunset. Once you remove the key power shuts down. This just took some ingenuity and a little bit of wire hunting. Thanks to Matt Flagiello (a small Italian with small Italian hands) for all his assistance. If any of you locals need Sound Systems, Alarms, or the like, Matt is your guy. Thanks for listening to my rambling (or was that reading?), if you have any questions, just shout them out. -Ben |