| Author |
Message |
MAGOO
| | Posted on Monday, February 12, 2001 - 9:07 pm: | |
P.S. to Magoo comment. Hey jay bird, the guys on this site know that everyone can,t own a Ferrari. Sorry, MAGOO |
MAGOO
| | Posted on Monday, February 12, 2001 - 9:01 pm: | |
Hey jay bird, Go bother somebody else at another site. While you're at it " GET ANOTHER LIFE"! Sincerely, MAGOO |
Frank S.
| | Posted on Thursday, February 01, 2001 - 11:53 pm: | |
dear jay
I'm Frank S. Who are you talking to and why are you speaking this way? Do you have a problem with someone in specific or do you just have a problem? Guys, I'm sorry I'm stooping to his level, but I don't take shit well.
jay, go !@#$ yourself.
Regards,Frank |
mn mark
| | Posted on Thursday, February 01, 2001 - 5:49 pm: | |
Ok ok,
Let's not stoop to jay's level. Instead, we should offer constructive criticism. Jay, your comments are not very helpful, and quite insulting. If you have some helpful advice, share it, otherwise, you needn't visit here anymore. |
Bret M
| | Posted on Thursday, February 01, 2001 - 3:43 pm: | |
Who are you? More importantly, who do you think you are?
I think if anyone knows "peanuts" about Ferrari it would probably be you considering your definite grasp of the english language. I hope that someday I can grow up to be able to say ill-thought things like that. Why do you even write things like that? Are you stupid or something?
And usually when you write your name you start it with a capital letter. So you might want to start calling yourself Jay, it's just an idea. But then again you know so much that you probably knew that already. |
jay
| | Posted on Thursday, February 01, 2001 - 2:52 am: | |
!@#$ my !@#$ and call me daddy, do not act smart if you know nothing but peanuts about ferrari.
thank you for your time. |
Frank S.
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 10, 2001 - 8:07 pm: | |
Gentlemen, I have 125 mains, F36 Emulsion tubes, and 220 air corrector. Does a larger air corrector induce richer running? And, could this be my problem? |
Steve Magnusson (Stevemagnusson)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 10, 2001 - 10:22 am: | |
Dave H. -- I'm not sure how the XR700 would respond to a low input voltage, but you should be able to measure/verify the available spark voltage directly with the simple "air gap" type gauge that goes in series with the plug (I'm assuming, like me, you don't have an auto oscilloscope -- yet).
Are you sure about the match between the XR700 and the Lucas coils? I had the XR700s, but just ran the mundane Crane PS20 coils.
Steve M. |
irfgt
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 10, 2001 - 6:11 am: | |
A weak ignition coil can cause the same plug fouling problem with no carburation problem. |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 10, 2001 - 3:10 am: | |
Dave Handa, yes you could get a weak spark from a faulty alternator (voltage regulator specifically). Happened to me.
CraigFL, I have those Weber books too, although I found them to be a "heavy" read. Still excellent source of info. |
Frank Scotto
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 10, 2001 - 1:06 am: | |
Steve w/ 77...Thanks for responding. Are you running your R1 at 7 BTDC or at the R2's 3 ATDC? Also , do you know what main jet, air correction and emulsion tube you have in the car? Are you using the BP6ES at .020, and what mileage are they yielding ? Thank you all for helping.-Frank |
Dave Handa
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2001 - 9:35 pm: | |
Hey Steve M., I have a friend with this same problem. He just switched to Allison Fireball XR700 ignition, Lucas High Energy coils, and had the carbs resynched and adjusted. Still fouling plugs (he's using the NGK BP6ES). I noticed that his tailights don't appear very bright, is it possible that his plug fouling problem is related to a bad alternator? Wouldn't low voltage cause a weak spark? Just curious,
Dave |
Steve
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2001 - 7:46 pm: | |
I've got a 77 GTB also and it is de-smogged with no carbon canister with these lines plugged. I only run on R1's with dwell and timing set at manual specs. No choke attached . The car runs a wee bit rich (black tail pipes only) and the plugs come out looking a slight tan color. I use recommended plug gap. Car runs great after it warms up. Flat 1000rpm idle with no hunting.I've got 38K on the clock with last tune up at 30K (major). I would suggest you go with the factory or Haynes carb setup. I found once you set these carbs. they seem bulletproof. Steve |
CraigFL
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2001 - 5:25 pm: | |
I have found my Weber Carb books and they are:
WEBER CARBURETTORS by John Passini, Part 1- Theory
WEBER CARBURETTORS by John Passini, Part 2- Tuning & Maintenance
Published by Speedsport Motorbooks 1973
At the time, I found this to be the best reference for tuning my Webers. |
Steve Magnusson (Stevemagnusson)
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2001 - 10:33 am: | |
Frank -- there were subtle tweaks to jet sizes and float heights over the years/versions so my advice would be to start with the values shown in your specific year/version Owner's Manual. For example, on the '78 US B/S cars the mains were reduced from 130 to 125, the slow running (idle) jets were increased from 050 to 055, and the float heights set at 48 mm. I've been told this does penalize the ultimate top end a bit, but since you�re just looking for good streetability I'd say start with the stock values. Also, I�d do the mini-on-the-car-carb-rebuild if your 23~24 year old carbs have never been freshened (new needle valves, new acc pump diaphragms, check/set float heights, new 5-bolt top gaskets) before experimenting with different set-ups.
With regard to aftermarket ignition setups the performance is certainly OK, but it becomes a trade-off with cost and impact on resale IMHO. I'd also add that your car would idle better at 3 deg ATDC (and be less prone to fouling plugs) with properly functioning R2s as you don�t need to �close-down� the Webers as much to keep the ~1000 RPM idle speed as you do at 7 deg BTDC on the R1s. There is no performance penalty for having functioning R2s (only a mechanical complexity penalty).
JMHOs,
Steve M. |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2001 - 3:08 am: | |
Frank, here are the specs according to the Haynes Weber Carburetor Manual:
Mains: 130
Idles: 0.50
Emulsion tubes: F36
Air-correctors: 200
(I think this is the manual that CraigFL refered to) |
Frank Scotto
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2001 - 12:03 am: | |
Does anyone know what size jets I should be using including main, idle and air correction tubes? Please consider setup for daily street driving and the mileage of the motor. Steve, I am going to try a set of those plugs, but I do feel that I have excess unburned fuel coming out the exhaust (smell and vapor) so this fuel mixture route seems correct. Also, how about these "direct fire"ignition system or one coil per cylinder systems that I see on Nick Sciarra site? pros,cons? I prefer original, but want my car drivable everyday and everywhere.I've thought about a 328, but want some soul.
thanks,Frank |
Steve Magnusson
| | Posted on Monday, January 08, 2001 - 1:03 pm: | |
Frank -- Yes, the BPR6EVX is a resistor plug, but I still think you'll benefit compared to a non-resistor conventional plug. Unfortunately, NGK no longer offers a non-resistor "exotic" (actually most of my experience was with the cheaper ~$4 each non-resistor NGK "EV" Palladium plugs that have also been discontinued). Check out the NGK webite:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com
for more info.
Of course you could have gas mixture and/or oil problems that no plug technology will overcome, but if all is fairly healthy I'd be surprised if you couldn't get 10K miles out of a set.
JMHOs,
Steve M. |
Steve Magnusson
| | Posted on Monday, January 08, 2001 - 12:49 pm: | |
Peter -- no argument that early 308 stuff usually lists a very small spark plug gap like ~0.4 mm (.016"), but the later stuff shows larger values (e.g., the '78 308GTB/S US Owners Manual 150/78 shows .024" to .027"). This is not to say any reference is perfect -- this same OM shows the recommended NGK plugs as BP8ES which is a very, very cold plug (and later I believe they revised the official recommendation to "7") -- IMHO "6s" are a much more reasonable choice for typical US driving (since Frank was already using 6s, I didn't bring this point up).
Steve M. |
Frank Scotto
| | Posted on Monday, January 08, 2001 - 12:34 pm: | |
Will a larger gap be less condusive to fouling? Is that BPR6EVX a resistor plug and don't they foul more quickly? My car has 46K mls. Compression is 135 psi to 155 psi if I recall correctly. How many miles should I be getting and what's the average. Thank you very much so far Peter and Steve, I really appreciate it. |
CraigFL
| | Posted on Monday, January 08, 2001 - 12:30 pm: | |
I have worked on Weber carbs before (but not on a Ferrari) and they can be setup any way you like depending on your driving style. It sound to me like they may need to be jetted differently -- could be differences in your engine or worn jets. There is an excellent book on this subject available-- I'm at work and don't have the book here right now. The book gives you step by step instructions on setting up these carbs. I know you've had some work done on these but I doubt if many techs know how to setup and adjust them properly. I'll post the name of the book later. |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| | Posted on Monday, January 08, 2001 - 12:27 pm: | |
Frank, your setup is identical to my car (R1 points only @ 7°, BP6ES, removed emissions). The carbon canister is located on the rear bulkhead of the engine bay. It absorbs fuel vapour from the gas tank and dumps it into the Sinistra manifold (little pipes below the carbs). But since your emissions systems are removed, you probably don't have this unit (just like my car).
Steve, I gap the plugs at .020". Look in the manual (100/74), they even specify a min gap of .015"! My spark plug gapper can't even go smaller than .020". |
Steve Magnusson
| | Posted on Monday, January 08, 2001 - 11:23 am: | |
Try a set of NGK BPR6EVX -- these are a small diameter center-electrode Platinum design that worked well for me in my high-mileage ex-308GTS daily driver which would also foul conventional plugs quickly (~$7 each is a fair retail price, although most dealers/service shops gouge for ~$15 each). Why so small (.020") on the electrode gap -- isn't something like .024" more typical? and how many miles on the engine?
Steve M. |
Frank
| | Posted on Monday, January 08, 2001 - 9:49 am: | |
Sorry I was so vague. Emissions removed, carbs rebuilt by factory tech., R-2 points removed, R-1 set at +7, NGK BP6ES set at 020, new distributor caps, rotors, wires and coils. Distributors are rebuilt. Choke is disconnected. carbs were also adjusted and synchronized by same tech. What and where is the carbon canister. Both banks will foul, has not been any one cylinder, carb or bank.Plugs biuld up carbon rather quickly and eventually I pull out a wet one or two. Have had the car 7 years, was a daily driver then a second car. I have had this problem since day one and am ready to... |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| | Posted on Monday, January 08, 2001 - 1:37 am: | |
I haven't suffered from this yet, but may I state a theory? Could it be that your carbon canister is no good anymore and instead of fuel vapours being dumped into the Sinistra bank, its just raw liquid gas? Could the jets be sitting in their seats incorrectly? Incorrect float level setting? Give us some more detail on your setup (Emissions removed, any changes to settings, were the carbs rebuilt by somebody else? etc...) |
Frank Scotto
| | Posted on Sunday, January 07, 2001 - 11:24 pm: | |
I have a problem with my 1977 308GTB. My spark plugs foul after about 1000 miles. Can anyone help? |
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