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Kelly (Tifosi1)
Member
Username: Tifosi1

Post Number: 383
Registered: 2-2002
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2002 - 8:15 pm:   

OK, here it is;

My cold start fuel injector is disconnected. I replaced the thermal time switch and it still flooded the engine when trying to start hot.

So, I got a little hook and have the electrical connector unpluged and hanging by the hook.

During last year's Concourso road rally. the engine would start idleing at 3,000 RPM. I'm going down Bourbon street at 3,000 RPM. WOA

I talked to Ed, he said to go get two bypass plugs. I took the 90 degree hose off of the cold start valve and replace both ends with the plugs.

Also, my cold start sensor on my expansion tank is disconnected to. It was that way when I bought it.

There is a picture in the owners manual and it is called a cold start valve. It looks like a little tennis ball. It has a one inch rubber hose connecting it to the crank case at the bottom. It then connects via a 90 degrees hose to the intake plenuem cold start fuel injector.

It also has a small hose running over to a electrical square box that is on all 1980 to 81 injected models.

Here's picutre of it from when I did my 30K
cold
Thanks
Kelly
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member
Username: Peter

Post Number: 2006
Registered: 12-2000
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2002 - 7:58 pm:   

If it wants to/does stall, when giving it gas, it probably is getting way too much gas (based on the probability that there's not enough air from the cold-start air valve for correct mixture).

Sorry, unless I have an injection car in front of me, I wouldn't know what to look for/how to test it.
Greg Rodgers (Joechristmas)
Member
Username: Joechristmas

Post Number: 446
Registered: 3-2001
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2002 - 7:49 pm:   

Thanks for the info Peter. It is a possibility. Mine goes up in rpms after 30-60 secs. I have noticed that if I give it gas during this bogging period if wants to stall immediately unless I let off of the gas. Is there a way to test this?
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member
Username: Peter

Post Number: 2003
Registered: 12-2000
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2002 - 7:27 pm:   

Greg/Kelly, please bear with this theory, as I'm not 100% familiar with injection:

If it bogs, then clears up, to me sounds like the cold-start air valve sticks shut, then either from surrounding heat or whatever, the valve suddenly opens (the correct amount of fuel from the injector, but not enough air from the valve and it would run like s---). The other situation, the auxiliary air-valve maybe stuck open and continuously allowing air to bypass the throttle, causing high idle RPM.

Remember, this is just my theory...
david handa (Davehanda)
Junior Member
Username: Davehanda

Post Number: 193
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2002 - 4:44 pm:   

Are we talking about the "auxilary air valve" here? The device that lets extra air/fuel into the intake manifold during warm-up? Then closes after a few minutes...
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member
Username: Irfgt

Post Number: 1901
Registered: 2-2001
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2002 - 4:38 pm:   

Kelley, write out exactly what your car does from the time you start it until the time it runs normally and how long it takes and I can help cure your problem before you spend a bunch of money on something you don't need.
Greg Rodgers (Joechristmas)
Member
Username: Joechristmas

Post Number: 445
Registered: 3-2001
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2002 - 3:19 pm:   

The cold start injector goes into the plenum chamber on the right hand side if facing the engine. I wouldn't think this would be your problem. It is funny that you have this type of problem because I am having a similar problem on my Lotus Esprit (Bosch K-Jetronic). It will bog on start up for around 30 secs. to 1 min. Then the rpms will rise to where they are suppose to be. Let me know if you find out what it is and I will likewise on the Lotus. It maybe the same problem on both cars.
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr

Post Number: 1038
Registered: 1-2001
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2002 - 3:12 pm:   

Kelly -- I think were talking about two different devices, but we're using the same name so nevermind. As billy bob said, it never hurts to try looking via the 10 digit Bosch number on a site like:

http://www.impartonline.com

just for a price comparison.
Kelly (Tifosi1)
Member
Username: Tifosi1

Post Number: 379
Registered: 2-2002
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2002 - 1:58 pm:   

Well I chased this rabbit last year. Every once in a while the engine would idle at 3,000 RPM. Just out of the blue.

I did as Ed Gault advised and blocked off the cold start valve. It looks like a tennis ball over there by the thermostat. Ever since then, I've never had it idel at 3,000 RPM, but when cold at start up it is always down 2-300 RPM until it warms up.
it also runs like crap until then.

That's why I'm lookin'
Thanks
kelly
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr

Post Number: 1037
Registered: 1-2001
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2002 - 1:26 pm:   

Kelly -- Are you sure that you're chasing the right gremlin? The K-Jetronic cold start valve squirts some extra fuel for a maximum of a few seconds just to aid cold light-off -- if you've got a few minute cold-running problem (that doesn't affect warm-running) I'd think elsewhere first (e.g., warm-up regulator -- but don't replace that on mere speculation). Did you confirm the cold start valve is malfunctioning? I just can't think of a way the cold start valve could malfunction to make minutes of gentle cold-running poor yet warm-running would be OK -- JMO.
Kelly (Tifosi1)
Member
Username: Tifosi1

Post Number: 378
Registered: 2-2002
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2002 - 12:25 pm:   

GT wanted $235
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo

Post Number: 3118
Registered: 2-2001
Posted on Saturday, September 07, 2002 - 11:24 pm:   

Kelly, Just a suggestion. Check with G.T. Car Parts also. I have always found them to have the best prices. 1-623-780-2200.
billy bob (Fatbillybob)
New member
Username: Fatbillybob

Post Number: 36
Registered: 8-2002
Posted on Saturday, September 07, 2002 - 10:57 pm:   

Yeah,

Pull the old one out check the number and order at a parts store by number. There are clear numbers on all bosch parts. You will get it at the non-Ferrari price. Also there is a Bosch website and you can plug in your year and make and it will tell you what bosch parts are on your car.
Kelly (Tifosi1)
Member
Username: Tifosi1

Post Number: 377
Registered: 2-2002
Posted on Saturday, September 07, 2002 - 9:21 pm:   

I here these things are about $200 to $300. Has anyone got a cheaper solution or a cross reference to the real bosch number??

Please let me know. I tired of 800 RPN unitl it warms up, plus it runs like crap till then.

Thanks
kelly

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