| Author |
Message |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 3140
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 10:50 pm: | |
Philip, I was just making you aware that it had been discussed at length before which was too much to try and post here. However I did out line the repair for you. I would say straight time and that depends on certain conditions such as tools and working on the floor or a lift. It really isn't that bad once you get the engine supported. Don't be sorry. Glad if I can help out. Regards, |
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
New member
Username: Pma1010
Post Number: 12
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 9:25 pm: | |
Magoo
Sorry if it has been done before. I'll look. What's the time involved for a shop/enthusiast to do this?
Philip |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 3139
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 9:04 pm: | |
Phillip, I have posted this before and it has been discussed before. To get the total discussions check the archives. To answer your guestion quickly though, remove the mounts one at a time, supporting the engine with a jack etc., and remove the bolts that go into the case. Clean out all the oil with solvent in the threads of the case and on the bolts and dry throughly. Then coat the bolt threads with Permatex no. 2 and re-install. I did mine 2 yrs ago and it does not leak. |
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
New member
Username: Pma1010
Post Number: 11
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 7:18 pm: | |
Edward, thanks for clarification. This seems to close this thread.
On an unrelated note, has anyone found an elegant fix to the leaking engine mount problem? (The mounts seem to fill with oil, I assume from the studs/bolts that pass through the mount into the casting)
Philip |
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member
Username: Irfgt
Post Number: 1953
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 6:54 pm: | |
With engine in the car. |
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
New member
Username: Pma1010
Post Number: 10
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 6:41 pm: | |
All
thanks for the responses. Clarifications and follow ups:
Mitchell. Sorry, PAX is shorthand for passenger. On the source of the leak, I think oil is coming past the differential seals on to the half shafts. I had most of the other seals replaced following purchase, but the diff seals had escaped attention.
Edward: timing with engine in or with engine out.
All, to be explicit, I think you are saying that changing the diff seals doesn't require an engine pull. Please let me know if I am mis-interpreting.
Philip
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Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member
Username: Irfgt
Post Number: 1951
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 5:02 pm: | |
I did both of mine on my 308 and all that is necessary to do is remove the axles and then the flange and then pry out the seals and drive new ones back in. About 2 hours at the most. |
Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member
Username: Yelcab1
Post Number: 395
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 4:07 pm: | |
I changed my oil seals (behind the flanges) when the engine was out so had plenty of space and access. The axles, and half flanges have to come off and then the seals can be pried out. I do think the exhaust header also has to come off in the car otherwise getting to it may be a bit tight.
I would guess that it takes 1 hour for the header, 1 hour for the axles, one hour for the seals, and 1 hour for misc, so the total is 4 hours. No fluid has to be changed, and the seals cost ... $20 for both. (dealer would charge up to $50 a seal).
So, you are looking at a $500 job. |
Paul Newman (Newman)
Member
Username: Newman
Post Number: 476
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 3:14 pm: | |
Of course, the right axle and flange has to be removed as well. |
Paul Newman (Newman)
Member
Username: Newman
Post Number: 475
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 3:12 pm: | |
To change the right side seal, the top cover has to come off because the seal is behind a lip. To remove the top diff cover, I think the rear header has to come off for clearance. the drivers side seal is much easier because of the bolt on plate. |
Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member
Username: Yelcab1
Post Number: 394
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 2:25 pm: | |
Phillip,
Need a little more information, picture, or something more descriptive than a small oil leak at the PAX side.
What is PAX ?
Where is it coming from, the oil? The oil seal? The big 1" nipple on the bottom of the housing?
Is it from the oil pan gasket? From the speedohousing? Is it from the bellhousing interface?
|
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
New member
Username: Pma1010
Post Number: 9
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 1:59 pm: | |
I have searched the archives on this but don't seem to find the answer to my question(s). I have a (small) oil leak from the PAX side of the differential in my 77 308 GTB. Does anyone know what's involved and the labor a shop would typically charge to fix? Can the work be done without pulling the engine from the car? |