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Chris Comer (Piper)
New member
Username: Piper

Post Number: 4
Registered: 9-2002
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 7:16 pm:   

Thanks to all of you. Finally it is off. I bought a 10 inch "metric adjustable" from Advanced Autoparts and a set if big Chanel Locks. and also some reinforced cut off wheels/discs for my Dremel. After 10 mins and some pretty good cussing the dipstick tube retaining nut came loose and I was able to remove it by hand after the first 1/4 turn. No one told me that oil would pi** out. Thanks guys. The rest was easy.

After cleaning up the oil I cracked a beer and thought how clever I was after all.

Next.... Anyone changed a right rear wheel bearing on an 81 308 ? I can grab the wheel at the top and bottom and rock it So I suppose I have to dismantle the hub carrier.

Thanks again your a great bunch. Oh yeah! One last thing. During all this my wife decided to leave me. Came home one night(Sept 11 actually) and she was gone. Any nice lady Ferrari and aeroplane fans out there???

Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member
Username: Verell

Post Number: 393
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2002 - 10:18 pm:   

Gordon,
You're right on. I finally figured that out about the 3rd time I pulled my alternator(DUH)...
Gordon Hollingsworth (Gordonh)
New member
Username: Gordonh

Post Number: 6
Registered: 5-2002
Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 11:13 pm:   

Chris, it is probably easier to remove the bracket that holds the alternator onto the block than to remove the dipstick tube. On my '78 308 a cut down 17mm box end wrench did the trick. Perhaps your car has the same design.
Lawrence Coppari (Lawrence)
Member
Username: Lawrence

Post Number: 276
Registered: 4-2002
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 5:58 am:   

I hope your dipstick is easier to loosen than mine was. I could not loosen the nut that holds the flared part - the gasketed bottom part would turn. Ended up having to cut the thing in half and braze back together. This is for a 328.

Mine was so tight I put the lower nut in a vise on my workbench. The workbench would want to turn over as I attempted to loosen. A cheater bar did the trick because you don't have to pull as hard. Maranello must have a gorilla tightening some of the nuts.
Chris Comer (Piper)
New member
Username: Piper

Post Number: 3
Registered: 9-2002
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 8:39 pm:   

Thanks guys, I had to remove the heat shield and everything went well until I tried to remove the long bottom pivot bolt. It backed out 80% of its length and ran right into the dipstick tube. Now this has to be removed. Tomorrow I go shopping for a 27 mm wrench to try to loosen it from the engine casting. This will allow the bolt to be slid towards the starter motor and be removed. I will put it back together the other way round when (if ) I get the **** back together again. Stay tuned for the next episode on Thursday.
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member
Username: Verell

Post Number: 377
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Sunday, September 22, 2002 - 11:57 pm:   

THE NUT FOR THE ALTERNATOR TENSION BOLT IS A PITA...

I discovered I could hang the box end of a combination wrench onto the nut for the alternator clamp bolt. I put it on backwards, ie: the wrench tilted toward the front of the alternator. The wrench will brace itself against something (can't remember what, maybe the alternator), & (usually) stay in place long enough to snug the bolt down.

To get the wrench into place I had to reach up between the exhaust heat shield & a vertical heatshield. Alway scraped some hide off. A sacrifice to the !$#$ Engineer who didn't lock the bolt into place.

The last time i had my car apart, I welded some short pieces of steel rod to the tensioner bolt head, and also to the pivot bolt head. No more contortions & blood sacrifices. For photos, search the archives.
Greg Rodgers (Joechristmas)
Member
Username: Joechristmas

Post Number: 466
Registered: 3-2001
Posted on Sunday, September 22, 2002 - 4:43 pm:   

It really isn't bad. When I was doing my a/c conversion. I had to take the alter. belt off about 15 times. I tensioned it with a wood dowel. I would hold it in one hand then reach in there with my socket with the other and tighten up the bolts. Take your time and assess the situation before loosening bolts.
Chris Comer (Piper)
New member
Username: Piper

Post Number: 2
Registered: 9-2002
Posted on Sunday, September 22, 2002 - 4:40 pm:   

Thanks Bob, Just been out to my garage to see how to do the job. I need a wrist with a universal joint and telescopis eyes I think. Tightening the belt must be fun
Bob Campen (Bob308gts)
Member
Username: Bob308gts

Post Number: 312
Registered: 9-2001
Posted on Sunday, September 22, 2002 - 11:40 am:   

Here is a link to page from an FChater, it sure helped me

http://pages.sprint.ca/peters_ferrari/service.html
Chris Comer (Piper)
New member
Username: Piper

Post Number: 1
Registered: 9-2002
Posted on Sunday, September 22, 2002 - 11:08 am:   

I have no charge to battery, I have noillumination of red dash warning light. The light was always reluctant to go out and even glowed at night with full elecrical load. I assume the alternator has to be removed for rebuild. It appears to have a heat shielsd on the end. Problem is how the heck do I get to the top bolts? I can only see the bottom mounting. I have the car about 12 inches in the air on Jack stands. Any help appreciated. I am reasonable able with wrenches but not with patience.

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