| Author | Message | ||
| Wil de Groot (Wildegroot)
New member Username: Wildegroot Post Number: 6 Registered: 9-2002 |
Matt, All the throttles should be synchronized with a flow meter with the linkage disconnected. Not to insult you, but if you're asking this question you probably shouldn't be messing with it. You're going to get yourself in trouble. Wil | ||
| Sean Higgins (Sean_higgins)
New member Username: Sean_higgins Post Number: 4 Registered: 9-2002 |
I have a 78 308 GTS and I can remove the air box with little trouble. I just have to tilt the rear of it up to clear the carb studs and be very carefull not to get the stud for the airbox cover caught on on the engine cover. I have to do a little rotating and tilting, but it can be done, unless you car is a bit different. I have a K&N filter too, so I'm not sure what the difference is between that and stock. I never owned it with out the K&N filter. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member Username: Peter Post Number: 2046 Registered: 12-2000 |
Paul, that's exactly how it is with a GT4. You can even get to the front plugs without removing anything (airbox, engine lid, etc)...  As for the idle-raising question, you can get away without using a synchrometer if you listen for the intake sounds with a small rubber tube (1/4" I.D., one end in your ear canal, the other in the carb throat). As long as they all sound the same (dull, muted popping) and you've reached your desired RPM (best be read using a digital tach), its a done deal. Balancing the front bank to rear bank is tricky. I know its extra steps, but I always like to disconnect the bell-crank linkage, then adjust the throttle stops, then re-attach (being careful to take up the slack, but without pulling open the other bank throttles). | ||
| Paul Newman (Newman)
Member Username: Newman Post Number: 515 Registered: 12-2001 |
Yes, the GT4 is completely different. It looks like a treat to work on in the GT4 but a major pain in the neck and back in the GTB/S. I can get mine off as well with the lid in place. At least the glass cars have the quick disconnect hinges rather than bolted on. Then I would take it off. | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 3152 Registered: 2-2001 |
Greg is correct. I have a 79 308 GTS and the air box can be removed with out any problem whatever. | ||
| Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 410 Registered: 11-2001 |
This must be much different than my GT4 carbed version. I just remove the filter lid, the filter, all the airhorns, the inlet hose, the breather hose from below, and lift the housing out. But ... a GT4 may have a little more room. | ||
| Greg Rodgers (Joechristmas)
Member Username: Joechristmas Post Number: 479 Registered: 3-2001 |
I can remove mine with the stock type filter and with the bonnet on. I remove all of the airhorns then I take the entire airbox with filter in it out as an assembly. It is tight in there though. | ||
| Bob Campen (Bob308gts)
Member Username: Bob308gts Post Number: 323 Registered: 9-2001 |
Paul, I tried exactly what you are saying, still had a half inch to go when I ran out of room, mine is a US spec car also. No two are the same. | ||
| Paul (Pcelenta)
Junior Member Username: Pcelenta Post Number: 146 Registered: 7-2002 |
Bob, I disconnect the breather hose at the the airbox..disconnect the rubber belows on the intake side also at the airbox, remove the acorns/airhorns...then I lift straight up and it clears the studs...as always, you have to be carefull that none of the brass spacers drop out...now this is on my US Spec air cleaner...I'm not sure if the euro air box is taller or not...it is a different shape though. | ||
| Joel Ames (James)
Junior Member Username: James Post Number: 55 Registered: 4-2001 |
If you do not adjust the two screws exactlly the same you will throw the sinc between the front and rear bank out. The best way is to remove the engine lid, the air box and use a flow indicator to keep everything the same. | ||
| Bob Campen (Bob308gts)
Member Username: Bob308gts Post Number: 322 Registered: 9-2001 |
Paul, I have tried that with the air cleaner out, even made a special tool for back 4 still a PITA. How are you removing the box after the air horns are off. With the rubber seals installed correctly and the spacers in place on the studs I couldn't see any room to lift the main section off. Thanks | ||
| Paul (Pcelenta)
Junior Member Username: Pcelenta Post Number: 145 Registered: 7-2002 |
bob, the K&N has a ton of flex in it...I lift the filter and carefully give it a little twist to get it over the rear airhorns (firewall side) then you have full access to the acorn nuts..I hate realigning that lid...it is a PITA | ||
| Bob Campen (Bob308gts)
Member Username: Bob308gts Post Number: 321 Registered: 9-2001 |
Bob, I will have to try the mirror next time I need to adjust the idle Paul, I have a KN air filter I can't even get the back 4 accorn nuts off with the lid still on. I just decided for the 20 mins to remove and reinstall the lid, it is just easier. But tell me how you do it. | ||
| Robert Moore (Nail_it)
New member Username: Nail_it Post Number: 11 Registered: 6-2002 |
You don't need to remove the hood or the air box to adjust the idles, use a 1/4" wide screw driver that about 15" long. You will also need a small extension mirror to help guid the screw driver. Work the mirror from the oil filter side and the screw driver between the rear carbs.It's a peace of cake. Bob | ||
| Paul (Pcelenta)
Junior Member Username: Pcelenta Post Number: 141 Registered: 7-2002 |
On the gtb/gts you can get the airbox off without taking off the lid or removing the airhorn studs if you are not running the factory paper airfilter (which can't be flexed to remove)...just another advantage to running the K&N filter! | ||
| Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 409 Registered: 11-2001 |
Getting even for WW2? Heck, we liberated their collective ashes. M | ||
| Bob Campen (Bob308gts)
Member Username: Bob308gts Post Number: 320 Registered: 9-2001 |
Believe it or not, the hood/ engine cover/engine lid has to come off to remove the carb airbox. I think they are still getting even for WWII. If you remove the studs for the airhorns you might be able to get it off without the hood removal | ||
| Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 408 Registered: 11-2001 |
Bob, DO you mean the engine lid? Or, do you mean the air filter cover, then the airbox? I would hate to hire the engineer whose design dictates that the engine compartment lid has to come off before the simple airbox can come out. | ||
| Bob Campen (Bob308gts)
Member Username: Bob308gts Post Number: 319 Registered: 9-2001 |
The GTB and GTS require one more step than the GT4, the engine cover has to come off first for removal of the air box. | ||
| Matt Lemus (Mlemus)
Junior Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 149 Registered: 8-2002 |
Thanks Mitchell. | ||
| Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 407 Registered: 11-2001 |
Matt You really should remove the air box (10 minute job with the right tool: 8mm driver that looks like a screw driver). Then you have to adjust both idle screws the same amount to get your desired speed. 1/8 to 1/4 turn should do the trick. | ||
| Matt Lemus (Mlemus)
Junior Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 148 Registered: 8-2002 |
Bob, How would I raise it correctly? My idle is low, approx 700 and I check for the traditional stuff, air leaks, hoses but I have narrowed it down to the idle screw thanks Matt | ||
| Bob Campen (Bob308gts)
Member Username: Bob308gts Post Number: 318 Registered: 9-2001 |
If you want to increase idle, that will work but not the ideal way to do it. To lower the idle, you will have to remove the airbox. | ||
| Matt Lemus (Mlemus)
Junior Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 145 Registered: 8-2002 |
If you change the idle speed on the front carb (meaning the viewable one), Does it adjust the rear as well or do I need to remove the airbox to get to the back one? |