| Author | Message | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Advanced Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2700 Registered: 2-2001 |
The 328 has a modern fusebox, well modern as in the same as my 1988 jeep wrangler, not exactly cutting edge, but a hell of a lot better than the 308s. They run similar functions, a few more on the 328 but not more, I bet you could pick up a 328 fusebox from a parts car and make it work. I'm just thinking out loud here. Theoretically the 308s should work just as well, but it doesn't. My fusebox seems to get a little hot for my liking on 100 degree summer days. The car hasn't caught fire...yet. It's all wired alright so it is working well enough for now I guess. To give you guys hope, the newer cars get much much better. Ferrari discovered wiring harnesses in the early 90s (apparently it was quite elusive to the Italians for many years) and got away from randomly running "lone rangers" from the fusebox to whatever God-forsaken-designed-part that it was supposed to power at one point. One of these days I'm gonna have to do the fusebox on the 308, wow am I gonna curse alot. Hopefully no women or small children will be within ear's distance. | ||
| Paul Newman (Newman)
Member Username: Newman Post Number: 527 Registered: 12-2001 |
I hope ferrari fires all the 10 year olds that design the ferrari fuse boxes. What a joke on such an expensive car. My GTB is no better, I just couldnt help myself when I saw the pile of speghetti ferrari calls a fuse box. Sorry Gerrit. | ||
| Gerrit Visser (Gerritv)
Junior Member Username: Gerritv Post Number: 102 Registered: 6-2001 |
Hi Hans, Yes, this is a puzzle not helped by reading the workshop manual :-) This applies to a Series 1 glove box, Series 2 has the fuse box in a different location. Inside the glove box on both sides are fabric covered aluminum plates. These are not bolted or riveted in and need to be removed. I used a spring hook to pull them out, anything with a bit of a hook on the end will do. Once removed, there are two 13mm nuts on RH side to undo and 2 bolts on LH side. For the ones on the left you need to use a matching wrench/socket from under the dash. These are also 13mm. The glove box lock needs to be removed, only the end with the key/push button. The map light socket needs to be removed. Drill out the pop rivets along top front edge of the box where it joins the dash. These are 1/8" standard rivets, easy to replace on re-assembly. Remove the plastic cover over the wiring harness under the glove box. Remove screw (Philips head) from bracket under glove box. This bracket holds the bottom of the glove box to the front wall (in a front engined car this would be the firewall, not sure what to call it in our case) Mine had 2 rivets hidden on the LH side as well, drill these out. At this point the glove box should be free to come out. In my case the LH bolts had been severely over tightened and a putty knife was needed to bend the soft aluminum back into submission. I think I got all the details, if you need photos of some of this I can take some for you. I tried fixing the fuse blocks with the glove box in place and concluded that the time to take it out was well worth it to get much better access to the wiring. Hope this helps, Gerrit Visser | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Junior Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 207 Registered: 4-2002 |
Gerrit: Uh, remove the glove compartment?? New one on me. How do you do this? | ||
| Gerrit Visser (Gerritv)
Junior Member Username: Gerritv Post Number: 99 Registered: 6-2001 |
oops, out of practice, here is the picture:  This was before I fixed/bridged the LH 3 terminals | ||
| Gerrit Visser (Gerritv)
Junior Member Username: Gerritv Post Number: 98 Registered: 6-2001 |
Hi Hans When I repaired my fuse block (1976 Series 1 308GT4) I removed the glove compartment to get all the room I needed. I then marked each wire with tape and an indication as to its sequence number. Using this access approach gives you a lot more wire to play with (and coincidentally lets you do a proper job at crimping on a new lug.) Photo is: | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Junior Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 204 Registered: 4-2002 |
This could be 'GT4 specific, as I think the location/mounting of the GTB/GTS box may be different. New fusebox in hand, staring at old one. (BTW, I soldered all the connections on the new one to avoid problems in the future.) The problem is the length of the leads on the bottom. I can't figure out how to disconnect them, keep them identified as to what goes where, and avoid them dropping out of sight into the dash. There isn't much wire to work with. Also, one of the connectors looks burnt, and may need replacing - problematical with the short wire length. Suggestions? |