| Author | Message | ||
| Paul (Pcelenta)
Junior Member Username: Pcelenta Post Number: 169 Registered: 7-2002 |
ps. I used ric's detailed instructions when I did mine...a couple of years back... ;) | ||
| Ric Rainbolt (Ricrain)
Member Username: Ricrain Post Number: 266 Registered: 2-2002 |
FYI, my 308 made a clunk and replacing one of the CV joints fixed it. Chris, I didn't know you were British, I just stuck that expression in there for some reason.  | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 3187 Registered: 2-2001 |
Chris, Let us know what the dealer quote is. | ||
| Chris Comer (Piper)
New member Username: Piper Post Number: 6 Registered: 9-2002 |
Rick, Paul, Mark and Magoo, thanks for your input. Especially Rick for all that description and tips. I do not have the classic wheel bearing growl that I have heard so many times before on other old cars. Iam pretty sure that the LSD is not making the clunk . The play is definatley coming from the bearing area. I will get mt local Ferrari dealer to quote on it first. The shock will probably galvanize me into doing it myself! Rick, how did you know I was a Brit (spot of tea)? or are you ajust a tea drinker. | ||
| Mark (Markg)
Member Username: Markg Post Number: 274 Registered: 2-2001 |
When my R/R WB went out on my '82 GTSi it made a grinding noise that was more pronounced in slight turns than dead straigt. I has local shop do mine due to time restrictions, but they said it is just like rear bearings on a 911, which I have done, and Ric's process is right on; not difficult but time consuming... | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 3170 Registered: 2-2001 |
Chris, I'm sure you checked but just in case did you have both wheels off the ground when you turned the wheel and heard the clunk? Also a small amount of play is normal. Just be sure it isn't your limited slip diff. clutches giving you the noise. Have you added any limited slip additive to the diff? | ||
| Ric Rainbolt (Ricrain)
Member Username: Ricrain Post Number: 264 Registered: 2-2002 |
Here's a short version, sorry for the lack of detail: - Remove wheel - Disconnect half shaft outer CV joint - Disconnect parking brake cable - Remove brake caliper - Remove brake disc. If it seems stuck, use a rubber mallet or soft-faced dead blow and strike both sides firmly, but not hard, alternating sides until the rotor comes off the spindle. Clean up the corrosion on the spindle and inside of the rotor with ScotchBrite and use a very small amount of Nickel-based anti-seize when reassembling. - Remove upper A-arm bolt, lower A-arm bolt and shock lower bolt to free spindle from car Now that the spindle assembly is free, disassemble as follows: - Remove axle flange (special ring nut tool required) - Using hydraulic press, press the stub axle out. Be VERY careful not to drop the axle. Being forged, it's quite sensitive to cumulative shock. While it's out, it might be a good idea to have the axle magnafluxed, or better yet, X-rayed. Stub axle failures on Ferraris are not unheard of... - Most likely, the outer bearing will stay on the stub axle. A bearing separator can be used to remove the bearing from the axle, but be careful not to damage the flimsy metal outer dust shield. They're quite expensive (relatively). Note the orientation of the inner spacer. - Remove the six nuts and flat inner cover. - No need to remove the internal snap ring. Use the hydraulic press to remove the inner bearing. Inner bearing is FPN 101220 (OEM to FAG 62208-2RS), outer is FPN 101221 (OEM to FAG 62207-2RS). Last time I priced them, FoD beat the bearing house's price (seems like it was about $80-ish for the pair). By default, I always replace the following: Qty 1, 101220 Inner Bearing Qty 1, 101221 Outer Bearing Qty 6, 13543121 Studs holding inner cover Qty 6, 16100821 Nuts holding inner cover (Yellow Zinc Hex Nut, Size M8x1.25) Qty 1, 105511 Rubber seal on axle flange Seems like total cost was around $100 at FoD. If the ring nut's locking surface is in bad shape, replace it. Use a drop of blue Loctite when reinstalling the ring nut. For the extra special touch, have the cover plate and axle flange re-plated with Zinc Yellow Dichromate. Clean the aluminum cast housing with cleaner and a stainless steel detailer's brush. With access to all the tools, this is about a 2 hour job (4 if you really drag it out and have a spot of tea between steps). | ||
| Paul (Pcelenta)
Junior Member Username: Pcelenta Post Number: 159 Registered: 7-2002 |
chris, I would recommend doing both sides...though the right side seems to be the one that goes first...You are going to need a ring nut socket (expensive from Ferrari or make it yourself) and a press...It is advisable to have the axle shaft checked for stress cracks after pressing it out. It really isn't that difficult of a job. AW Imports has the bearings for a decent price. A neat little trick to getting the bearings in is to warm up the hub carrier in the oven and put the bearings in the freezer (in a plastic bag) they'll drop right in. | ||
| Chris Comer (Piper)
New member Username: Piper Post Number: 5 Registered: 9-2002 |
Any one done the ridgt rear wheel bearing on 308? I suspect this is the problem because when I grip the roasd wheel at the 9 to 3 position or the 12 to 6 position I can feel about 1/8 to 1/4" movement.I can hear a clunk also The play seems to be on the bearing and not any of the suspension joints. Can anyone tell me the procedure and things to watch out for. |