| Author |
Message |
Michael Klein (Malibumk)
New member
Username: Malibumk
Post Number: 43
Registered: 5-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 13, 2002 - 1:26 pm: | |
GOT THE ANSWER...it's pretty easy too;
1)Remove cross member blocking shaft seal area on transmission.
2)Remove longitudinal rod from shifter at trans input shaft, and in front if need be to get it out of your way, you'll need good access.
3)With curved hook ( I used my custom, garage made flat screwdriver with blade rolled back into a hook shape)to puncture the rubber part of the lip seal and get a grip on the metal outer ring of the seal.
4)work the seal out axially. Easily said, but I had to go thru the rubber in several radial locations and I clamped a pair of vice-grips on the screwdriver shank to give me something to pry against pulling the seal out.
NOTE of CAUTION: Slip a vynal or rubber sleeve over the shift input shaft before you get at removal to protect it from scratches or other damage.
Once you get it out, replacement is straight forward.
This is how the local dealer does it. 1-2 hours labor + seal. |
BRIAN FAHERTY (Brian)
New member
Username: Brian
Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, October 20, 2002 - 8:11 am: | |
Michael
got a Mondial Cab 3.2, it leaks also. Going in soon for a shift seal and fluid service. My mechanic says about 4-5 hours for the seal plus gaskets. needs to do it from the inside? $100 an hr *5 hours plus parts= $600.
Chat members
Once the seal is fixed how long untl it leaks again |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1141
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, October 19, 2002 - 5:12 pm: | |
Michael -- If you've got the documentation look at the design of the shift shaft -- if the exterior head end is larger than the ID of the seal I think you will have to disconnect the other end (inside the gearbox) to withdraw it (but you've got the drawings). |
Michael Klein (Malibumk)
New member
Username: Malibumk
Post Number: 37
Registered: 5-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, October 19, 2002 - 3:20 pm: | |
Thanks steve, I was thinking I should be able to get the seal out without removing the shaft/pan etc......but that's the question. I do have the workshop manual and parts book; is that what you are referring to as the SPC and WSM ?? Has any one done this job themselves out there?? Has anyone paid for it....the $$/hours would tell us part of the answer.
Thanks again. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1139
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 10:24 pm: | |
Michael -- I can't help 355 specifically either, but I'd be very surprised if you didn't need to remove the gearbox pan (which is a step beyond "yes" to #3). Where this job gets complicated is if you need to do something heroic with the powerplant in the chassis in order to have the necessary access/clearance to withdraw the (longish) shift shaft itself from the gearbox housing. Do you have the SPC and/or other WSM-like materials? You'll need to have an idea of what the shift shaft itself looks like to judge the difficulty of removal IMO. Wouldn't try this project myself without the SPC.
With regard to #2, it never hurts to mark the relative angular positions and make some length measurements of the various adjustment bits (shafts, nuts, etc.) before disassembling so you can get the assembly back in the right ballpark more easily. A good technique is to put the gearbox itself into 2nd and the shifter into 2nd, then reassemble the adjustment bits to the original positions. With your "assistant" manipulating the shifter you can check the shifter fork action before reinstalling the gearbox pan. Good luck... |
Noelrp (Noelrp)
Junior Member
Username: Noelrp
Post Number: 91
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 7:35 pm: | |
Mitchell,
i believe leak is a feature in every Ferrari.
If a Ferrari doesnt leak, then I would be concerned (no oil?). LOL |
Michael Klein (Malibumk)
New member
Username: Malibumk
Post Number: 36
Registered: 5-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 2:06 pm: | |
Guys:
I know they leak, what I'm interested in is 'what's involved with the replacement'? |
William Henderson (Billh)
New member
Username: Billh
Post Number: 31
Registered: 5-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 11:43 am: | |
dont forget the Testarossa's! the oil contaminated the rubber bushing in the union causing it to crumble and I couldnt select a gear!
|
David Feinberg (Fastradio2)
Junior Member
Username: Fastradio2
Post Number: 183
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2002 - 7:46 pm: | |
Mitchell...
If I could add one more to the list:
the 365BBs leak
though I replaced the single shaft "o-ring"when I rebuilt the transaxle. I figure the oil leaks prevents the aluminum from rusting...LOL |
Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member
Username: Yelcab1
Post Number: 436
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2002 - 6:43 pm: | |
Let's see,
the 308s leak.
the 328s leak.
the 348s leak.
You figure they solved it by now on the 355s.
Talented italian engineers ! Someone on this board suggested that the ... factory knows best ! |
Michael Klein (Malibumk)
New member
Username: Malibumk
Post Number: 35
Registered: 5-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2002 - 2:09 pm: | |
1)Has anyone replaced this oil seal on the trans where the shifter input shaft slides/rotates??
2)Are there special tools or techniques, cautions ?
3)Do I need to drain the transaxel?
They must fail a lot as this is the second 355 I've had and they have both have dripped at this location. A nusance leak, but a leak none the less.
Thanks to all in advance. |