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BretM (Bretm)
Advanced Member
Username: Bretm

Post Number: 2772
Registered: 2-2001
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 3:23 pm:   

Duh, I was thinking front head, that would be interesting but could be done. Forgot you said cylinder #4, rear head should come right off. Sorry.
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member
Username: Peter

Post Number: 2105
Registered: 12-2000
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 3:05 pm:   

The rear head can be removed easily while in the car. Obviously things like the top engine brace, fuel distributor, coolant resevoir, etc... maybe in the way and need to be removed, but nothing too serious or involved.

The forward head, that's an engine out job... (unless you have a Dino 206/246, the front head can pop right off with loads of clearance)
Timothy Fulmer (Tf308)
New member
Username: Tf308

Post Number: 14
Registered: 5-2002
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 3:05 pm:   

Once the fuel injection is removed, it seems like there is an enormous amount of room on the rear bank. I hope I am not wrong, but I think it should come right out.
BretM (Bretm)
Advanced Member
Username: Bretm

Post Number: 2771
Registered: 2-2001
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 2:42 pm:   

I was thinking removing the studs might be needed to, have to wait and see. Also, you might need to jack up the front of the engine (loosen all the mounts) or remove the front mounts and let the engine slip down a little. It will take some work, but could be done. Pulling the engine all the way out would be more work IMO and turn this into an engine out service, might as well do all the gaskets then, go over the whole engine and trans, etc.
Greg Rodgers (Joechristmas)
Member
Username: Joechristmas

Post Number: 505
Registered: 3-2001
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 9:51 am:   

Is this the head facing the rear of the car. How difficult will it be to remove it in the car? I know the front head can't be removed unless removing the engine for all practical purposes unless you want to remove the studs. Any info would be appreciated.
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr

Post Number: 1146
Registered: 1-2001
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 8:48 am:   

Tim -- the special offset wrench/socket looks like this:
fr101
from
http://www.baumtool.com
english
special tools
ferrari
fr101
BretM (Bretm)
Advanced Member
Username: Bretm

Post Number: 2770
Registered: 2-2001
Posted on Tuesday, October 22, 2002 - 11:27 pm:   

For the 4v head you need like a crows foot wrench(not though because it is best to do with a box end, but same shape). Sorry, pics of the two I made up are at home on my comp there. I made them out of normal craftsman open end box end wrenches, bent the wrench into the crows foot and then cut off the open end and welded a 1/2" drive socket to it. Then you can use a breaker bar in the socket. I think they're 15mm the acorn nuts for the heads. The head can pop right off after you get it loose or it can bust your balls. Usually it is on of the easier to get loose though because there are a couple places to hit it with a mallet (rubber or wood, etc) and head gasket doesn't really stick like some of the other gaskets which have been glued by someone a little happy with sealer, this is all usually though. You'll get it, it might just give you a hard time here and there, but you'll get it off.
Timothy Fulmer (Tf308)
New member
Username: Tf308

Post Number: 13
Registered: 5-2002
Posted on Tuesday, October 22, 2002 - 11:17 pm:   

Rechecked the leakdown on my QV...all cylinders between 4 - 8% cold except cylinder #4 which is 24%. Its leaking from my intake vavles. I am in the process of removing every thing to get to the head. How hard is it to get the head free from the block? I thought I saw a special tool on ebay (damn I wish I knew I was going to need it)

Does anyone have this tool and what should I expect in trying to free this head.

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