| Author | Message | ||
| Terry Springer (Tspringer)
Member Username: Tspringer Post Number: 302 Registered: 4-2002 |
Peter, Im gonna have to check some of it. I need to get the timing light on it again and check advance. The millermon distributor is adjustable by turning the distributor body.. and there is tons of adjustment available more than you could use. Ill post results when I test advance and mess with it again. Terry | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member Username: Peter Post Number: 2111 Registered: 12-2000 |
Hans, you're somewhat right  . The canister on our cars just dumps into the four forward cylinders. The rear cylinders were connected to the diverter valves, for the air-injection system. The brake booster line is attached to the left rear carb base. I doubt that this is the cause of the running problem. There are only three things needed to run an engine: -Spark -Air -Fuel Hard starting could be a lack of fuel, or severe retardation of spark. Check fuel pressure and volume. Terry, you mention wandering idle timing, how are you setting this? Are you rotating the distributor body, or the triggering mechanism inside? To check advance, like Bill said, it must move slowly and gradually. The specs in the manuals calls for 34° BTDC @ 5000 RPM. Are you achieving this? What does Ben set his dizzy's to? Are his adjustable for max advance? Idle is adjusted using the throttle shaft stops on the carb bodies. Are they both in contact? Are they both turned in the same amounts? Throttle cable jammed? Ferrari cruise-control syndrome (ie: floormat pushing on the throttle pedal)? | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 341 Registered: 4-2002 |
Not positive about this, as the charcoal canister is missing from my car. But I *think* (yeah, there I go again. Last time I thought it got me in real trouble.....) you don't need all 4 carbs hooked up to the charcoal canister. The purpose of this connection is to drain the canister, and you shouldn't need all 4 carbs to accomplish this. My car, I believe, had 3 carbs hooked to the canister and the remaining one was piped to the vacuum assist for the brakes. I'd try temporarily disconnecting the charcoal canister from the carbs (and plugging the connection so you don't get a vacuum leak) and see if your symptoms change. Oh, just thought of this. There are some valves in the canister system. Perhaps if these are either defective or not connected correctly, you may be giving yourself a massive vacuum leak. | ||
| Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Member Username: Bill308 Post Number: 399 Registered: 5-2001 |
Terry, With much effort, a manufactured wrench, and about 4-hours, I was able to remove and replace the front air injection manifold on my 78 GTS. You have to fight for every turn of the attaching nuts but it is possible. You will have to remove both rear wheel liners and possibly other stuff to gain access, but it is possible without removing the engine. Also, my car is not currently fitted with the A/C compressor and brackets. With regard to you ignition problem, you really need to check the advance mechanism with a timing light. It must advance and retard smoothly with changes in rpm. It's also possible you may have to balance your carbs to ensure they close sufficiently to allow the idle speed to drop enough so that the timing backs off fully at idle. What rpm is it idling at? | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 3266 Registered: 2-2001 |
Terry, Some one on here removed the co tubes with the engine in the car. He also told how he did it. I can't remember who it was but it wasn't too long ago. Some things had to be removed to gain access etc.. It would be in the archives. I'm sure it's not a easy task though. | ||
| Terry Springer (Tspringer)
Member Username: Tspringer Post Number: 301 Registered: 4-2002 |
Hiya guys! I have not been driving or working on my '77 GTB for the last month. Now, I have got to get this thing running right and start driving it as intended. I have installed a Millermon single distributor converstion with MSD6AL. It runs well, better than before the conversion. However, it still has some of the same problems and some new symptoms. I am really at a loss as to what to try next. The car is currently VERY hard to start. Its not really cold out, yet it can take 5 minutes of trying to start it. This is a new development. It used to be, 1 full pump on the peddle, crack the throttle 40% or so and it would fire and run first try. I have also tried setting the timing several times but it appears to reset itself between drives! At least the idle is not constant from one running to the next. It seems to idle either too high or too low, but not steady. I have not messed with the carbs at all except to hook them all up to the charcoal canister (before only 2 were connect and the other 2 were capped off). The car also still does a good bit of popping and burbling on deceleration. I last set the timing at 7 BTDC. I did suspect that the advance mechanism in the new distributor may be sticking, but not sure how to tell for sure. I set it when hot, but its very hard to be sure where its set because when I rev it after setting, it returns to idle with a slightly different idle speed and shows a different timing setting. Maddening. I suspect an exhaust leak may be the culprit. When working on the engine while running, there is a reasonably strong exhaust smell coming from the engine bay. Also, the front bank exhaust CO tubes are not well connected. Someone in the past apparently tried to remove them and the pipe nuts stripped out. The nuts will spin freely, but the tubes do not feel loose. It would seem very possible that there could be a slight exhaust leak at one or more of these tubes. The rear bank tubes are all removed and the holes capped. The exhaust emissions pumps are removed and all the hoses removed. The air injection manifolds are capped off. It seems pretty much impossible to reach the front bank CO tubes with the engine in the car. To properly remove them and cap them off appears to require at least the removal of the front exhaust manifold. This appears impossible with the engine in the car. Am I facing a full engine out job to make this dang thing run right? Any help is greatly appreciated. I need to get this thing running right so I can really drive it. Heck, I may be selling it in the spring to try and move up to a Daytona so this winters projects need to result in a perfect running car! |