| Author | Message | ||
| Justin Randall Kenyon (Kenyon)
New member Username: Kenyon Post Number: 17 Registered: 10-2002 |
Has the 348 got this valve and if its has where is it ? | ||
| eli (ali) Latif (Ninja_eli)
New member Username: Ninja_eli Post Number: 20 Registered: 5-2002 |
Manu, the rattle is was very intermittent on the way home. At one point it was really shaking the trasmission tunnel. It then went away about 2 miles before I got home and I tried everything to get it to make the sound again but it refused. I even put it into reverse and blipped it to hear the rattle but it never did it. Fingers crossed its gone away. I couldn't be bothered to look at any of the screws or nuts being loose, I will do today but I don't fancy messing around with it much myself. I might pop into Maranellos on Saturday to show them if it hasn't gone. I was going to use it to work today but the weathers really crap. Are you at the office? I'll give you a call, but for the records thanks BIG TIME! I wonder how Ferrari Main dealers would feel if they knew how much money, time, and inconvenience you guys could save Ferrari owners, which ultimately means the Dealers lose out. Yesterday was a great touch, can't believe my howl is back for only �150. I was soooooo close to paying �900 for the sound that day. Why don't Ferrari also renew parts rather than just change everything straight out (I say that with fingers crossed that this part doesn't fail, not that it should, but you never know...) Thanks Again! | ||
| Manu Sachdeva (Manu)
Member Username: Manu Post Number: 520 Registered: 2-2002 |
Al - what about the "other" rattle - has it gone? | ||
| eli (ali) Latif (Ninja_eli)
New member Username: Ninja_eli Post Number: 19 Registered: 5-2002 |
Just to let you know guys. It was a faulty valve. Luckily Manu and Ajay saved my ass! I got it repaired for �150 (about $250). I was ready yesterday to pay the dealers �900 ($1400) to resolve it. I wish it were a leak though. | ||
| Mitch Alsup (Mitch_alsup)
Junior Member Username: Mitch_alsup Post Number: 207 Registered: 4-2002 |
I checked mine last night (95 F355) It takes about 3/4 pounds of finger pressure to lift the vacuum diaphram or about 4 pounds of (mouth) vacuum for the diaphram to open the valve on mine. BTW: I did find a minor leak in the rubber tube connecting the coper tube with the diaphram and fixed it for about $0.30! in gasoline tubing. | ||
| Joseph Caretti (Pino)
Junior Member Username: Pino Post Number: 105 Registered: 4-2002 |
Red tape! See, you can fix that pesky valve yourself, just use lots and lots of tape to hold it open. Poof! Problem solved. For us non-British folk, what is a quid, and what is VAT? Please include an English to American translation key with all future replies  | ||
| eli (ali) Latif (Ninja_eli)
New member Username: Ninja_eli Post Number: 18 Registered: 5-2002 |
Manu, thats what Graypaul told me I could do, but apparently it will fail MOT. Maranellos just quoted me �590 plus VAT. These guys are all just so funny, they can't even synchronise their parts prices! Where are you? I was thinking of popping down to see you with the 355 and having your guys look at it for an opinion. If it is the valve, then I'll have to get it done by the authorised dealers. I know I'm being a bit of tosser, but I feel a lot easier if they were to do it. Plus, I don't want to risk the warranty. Plus, the difference is likely to only be a couple of hundred quid, as the parts costs are likely to be similar, with the labour being the main difference. What a fekking hassle. Apparently this happens often to 355s, Graypaul have done 4 in the last 3 months or so. From what the dealer says to me the valve sounds like it is at fault. It makes a clicking sound, like an exhaust rattling or similar. Apparently that means bye bye valve. Be warned though, that it does not MEAN that the sound is always from the valve, it could be the shield, as one owner found out after ordering the part. The clicking, rattling sound can also be the clutch, or a variety of things. Get the car checked before ordering any parts. Just passing on dealers advice! | ||
| Manu Sachdeva (Manu)
Member Username: Manu Post Number: 515 Registered: 2-2002 |
By the way - Jabba (the chap with the Diablo) just had it wired open all the time for maximum holwing)! | ||
| Manu Sachdeva (Manu)
Member Username: Manu Post Number: 514 Registered: 2-2002 |
Ninja - that's friggin ridiculous...... That crappy valve costs about �20 quid Actually it doesn't cost �20 quid but it sure as hell shouldn't cost �600+ Sack authorised dealers mate..... your best off just getting it check out by one of our guys. | ||
| eli (ali) Latif (Ninja_eli)
New member Username: Ninja_eli Post Number: 17 Registered: 5-2002 |
Just to update, I spoke to another Ferrari dealer and they reckon its �606 plus 17.5% VAT for the valve. Plus over an hour for fitting. Ouch! | ||
| eli (ali) Latif (Ninja_eli)
New member Username: Ninja_eli Post Number: 16 Registered: 5-2002 |
HI Joseph, you've got to be kidding right? How can someone drive and have another open the valve manually? It seems like something off jackass to me! Seriously, you are winding me up aren't you? I guess it is not supposed to be so stiff then? I'm not even going to describe how stiff, maybe you can describe how "unstiff" it should be? he he he. The mirror isn't actually changed yet! You need to look real closely but you may notice that there is a red tape over it. I was told by a friend that they could obtain a second hand perfect condition mirror for �300, which is a bargain compare to the �710 Ferrari want for a new, unsprayed mirror. Either way, I'll have to get it done soon, I just don't want to be without my car if its not something mechanical or too unsightly I'd rather have it with me as I try to use it everyday. I get withdrawal symptons when its gone. I had the seals changed a few months ago and that took a week, pure agony as it was in the middle of summer! I'm thinking about paying extra to put it on a low loader to my preferred dealer as the one near me are a bunch of w***ers at the moment. Don't fancy my car being in there for a week for a simple one or two hour repair. Thanks and regards | ||
| Joseph Caretti (Pino)
Junior Member Username: Pino Post Number: 102 Registered: 4-2002 |
Eli, to properly diagnose the valve, you are suppose to drive the car while your assistant opens the valve manually as you accelerate past 2800 RPM. That's what the dealer does. Honest. Since you have a spider, it makes it all the easier for the assistant to jump back in the car after proper testing. Your valve is most probably at fault since it is so hard to open manually. From what I understand, the valve works similar to a throttle blade, and some owners just remove the blade portion of the valve. Or rig a way to keep the linkage pulled taut at all times. I am surprised it is that inexpensive to repair. I will keep that in mind if mine ever fails. *Knocking on wood.* By the way, judging by your profile pic, I see you got your mirror fixed. Was that difficult? | ||
| eli (ali) Latif (Ninja_eli)
New member Username: Ninja_eli Post Number: 15 Registered: 5-2002 |
Thanks guys. I spoke to the Ferrari dealer and he confirmed the problem is most likely with the valve. If no pipes are loose or torn then its likely to be the valve itself. I revved the engine to 2.5K and opened the valve manually and I heard the howl (all while stationary of course!). Joseph, how do you keep the valve open all the time? When looking at the setup, it looks like it pulls the lever upwards towards the round thingy with the vacuum pipes attached. It is very stiff, and I guess it must need a lot of pressure to suck it upwards? Don't worry I won't try anything myself, just want to know how it works. Thanks. The dealers reckon about �250 for the part and about �100 for the labour, does that sound about right? Thanks again. | ||
| DMC (Machinnes)
New member Username: Machinnes Post Number: 5 Registered: 10-2002 |
I had the same problem a few months ago. It was the bypass valve which opens at higer RPM's and gives the car that great sound. | ||
| Joseph Caretti (Pino)
Junior Member Username: Pino Post Number: 101 Registered: 4-2002 |
Ah, I see the conversation has moved over here. Eli, I have had problems with that pesky vacuum line coming loose more than once. You definitely lose that "howl" (especially with a Tubi). There is also a loss of the "high speed rush" of acceleration because the engine is not breathing as well with the valve closed. If you have confirmed the vacuum line is intact, I suspect that the bypass valve actuator or the valve itself is at fault. I have heard some individuals manually keep the valve open or eliminate it entirely, at a slight expense of low-end torque. But what a sound! Good luck. | ||
| Lawrence Coppari (Lawrence)
Member Username: Lawrence Post Number: 367 Registered: 4-2002 |
Whenever I get another car, I benchmark it with an acceleration test on the same strip of road. The test involves acceleration from 70 to 100 in a single gear (or some speed range that does not involve shifting). Don't waste your time with 0-60 as it is too hard to duplicate and is abusive. The outside air temperature is recorded and the test is done both ways on the road with the times averaged. Then, when I get to thinking the car has lost some of its zip, I redo the test and decide it has not lost its zip. Always note how much fuel you have in the car and have the rear tires at the same pressure each time you test it. Variances in temperature can be accounted for by a correction factor based on the ratio of absolute temperatures. So can fuel. Barometric pressure differences generally don't matter too much unless you test in Denver then retest on the coast or something extreme like that. I find that most of my performance differences are in my head. | ||
| Matt Lemus (Mlemus)
Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 376 Registered: 8-2002 |
Could you have lost a cylinder or Two? | ||
| eli (ali) Latif (Ninja_eli)
New member Username: Ninja_eli Post Number: 14 Registered: 5-2002 |
My 355 is basically not making the howling sound that I so love. There seems to a slight loss in performance but that could just be my imagination. I understand that it is generally the exhaust bypass valve that controls this function, and that the pipe can sometimes come loose (thanks Joseph). If this is the case, how loose must it be for it to stop functioning properly? It hasn't fallen off but it was a little loose. It still feels a little loose after tightening but I didn't want to go mad on it. If its something I can just quickly tighten up then I'd rather not taking it to the dealers. Else, I might be forced to. Will this be covered by the warranty, or am I on my own with this one? (I am in the UK and its a Ferrari warranty). I guess it is part of the exhaust system and therefore not covered beyond three months but I would appreciate any views. Is there anything else that can cause this sound to disappear? Thanks in advance for any replies. |