| Author |
Message |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1186
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Friday, November 15, 2002 - 10:10 pm: | |
Thanks James. Obviously my fault in translating "for US version" too literally. Probably should have guessed that since mine is a later SPC it really means something more like "for (the later) US version (not covered in the earlier TR SPC)" since the writers could assume official agents would have both. |
James Selevan (Jselevan)
Junior Member
Username: Jselevan
Post Number: 241
Registered: 6-2002
| | Posted on Friday, November 15, 2002 - 6:00 pm: | |
Steve - ZFFSA17A8G0063465 |
Adam Goldman '86 TR (Icnsltmfg)
Member
Username: Icnsltmfg
Post Number: 449
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Friday, November 15, 2002 - 8:06 am: | |
85/86 was the only year the odometer was in the center console. In the shop manual it does say that some non-US cars in those dates did have a diffrent set-up. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1184
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, November 14, 2002 - 11:25 pm: | |
James -- Could you please also confirm the 4th and 8th VIN digits? TIA. |
James Selevan (Jselevan)
Junior Member
Username: Jselevan
Post Number: 238
Registered: 6-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, November 14, 2002 - 10:23 pm: | |
Steve - my 1986 U.S. TR has the odometer in the center console, not in the speedometer (which is in miles).
Jim S. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1180
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, November 14, 2002 - 8:44 am: | |
Ben L. -- I would be interested in how his TRs VIN decodes.
JB CVT -- Along those lines, what letters are in the 4th and 8th positions of your TRs VIN? |
JB CVT (Palmetto_tr)
New member
Username: Palmetto_tr
Post Number: 8
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 13, 2002 - 10:25 pm: | |
thanks steve and others for your help |
JB CVT (Palmetto_tr)
New member
Username: Palmetto_tr
Post Number: 7
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 13, 2002 - 10:24 pm: | |
thanks steve for your help |
Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member
Username: Benjet
Post Number: 874
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 13, 2002 - 12:08 am: | |
SteveM - (as an aside)
My pal/neighbor's '86 has the ODO/Trip ODO in the center console NOT the speedo. I do believe it to be a US version, has a 3rd brake light, mph speedo, no euro side markers, LHD etc. I have not checked his/it's VIN but I'm certain it has the emmissions labels on the (underside of the) engine decklid. I will verify when I can (won't be too soon tho). Just FYI.
-Ben |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1177
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 10:06 pm: | |
JB CVT -- The TR SPC shows that all US version TRs have the odometer inside the speedometer so I don't see how your TR could be a US version (if anyone knows differently please comment).
I measured the current flowing thru the #13 fuse socket on my US '91 by removing the #13 fuse and replacing it with a DC current meter:
parking lights on/dash lights full off = 3.8A
parking lights on/dash lights full on = 5.0A
(alternator voltage = 14.3V, 1000 RPM)
which shows that the 7.5A fuse selection by the F engineers was not unreasonable IMO. You could have either of 2 problems:
1. the continuous current draw thru the #13 fuse is near the 7.5A limit (but it's not way over so the fuse doesn't blow instantly), and therefore, lasts for only a little while, or
2. the current is normal most of the time (4~5A), but you've got an intermittent short that blows the fuse when it occurs.
Measuring the continuous current thru the #13 fuse socket when things are working should give you an idea whether the problem is #1 or #2. I'll have a look at both the standard and US wiring diagrams to list what devices/bulbs/etc draw current thru the #13 fuse for each (but it may take me a day or two so please be patient).
|
JB CVT (Palmetto_tr)
New member
Username: Palmetto_tr
Post Number: 6
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 9:01 pm: | |
it is in deed the 13th from the left
my 86 is a us version
it does have an aftermarket alarm which appears to be working fine
|
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1174
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 9:18 am: | |
JB CVT -- I'd be looking for a shorted connection rather than a loose connection (unless the looseness leads to shorting). More questions:
1. Standing at the front of the car facing the open fusebox, is the fuse in question the 13th from the left (i.e., #13, 7.5A as shown in the OM)?
2. Is your TR a GB version? Or please state version if you know.
7.5A isn't the biggest fuse in the world so if an accessory (radio, alarm, etc.) was added on the output line it could be a problem. I'll measure my fuse #13 current draw for comparison (with the dash lights at full bright and at full off) once you confirm that #13 is the problem cicuit. |
JB CVT (Palmetto_tr)
New member
Username: Palmetto_tr
Post Number: 3
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2002 - 8:16 pm: | |
after driving around for a bit , i blew the fuse and lost the dash lights but noting else. so i suspect there is a lose connection somewhere but i need some help where to look(pass foot plate)
thanks for your help |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1173
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2002 - 11:33 am: | |
JB CVT -- Sounds like you got lucky if it was just a fuse gremlin -- let me know if any symptoms return and I'll have a more detailed look at the standard TR (odometer not in speedometer) wiring diagram manual. |
Adam Goldman '86 TR (Icnsltmfg)
Member
Username: Icnsltmfg
Post Number: 441
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2002 - 10:16 am: | |
JB;
It is prob a connection under the pass foot plate. That is where most of the lighting control, center console, and IP wires make a connection before going through the fire wall. I had a very bad connection, and kept loosing lights, cig lighter etc.
Joe....Can you put instructions on how to remove the Center IP cover for the gauges? Mine like most others warped, and I have a new one but cannot figure out all of the bolts holding it in. Does the steering wheel have to come off? Is it just the two nuts under the panel? |
JB CVT (Palmetto_tr)
New member
Username: Palmetto_tr
Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2002 - 10:33 pm: | |
thanks for your help this give me a starting point. #2- when the dash light go out , so do the ashtray lights. #1 the odometer is not in the speedometer. #3the gauges all work properly.
when drove the car today , the lights went out completly, i checked the fuse panel and the corresponding fuse was blown, the connectors looked good, replaced the fuse and now i have lights but for how long. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1172
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2002 - 5:02 pm: | |
JAMES -- three questions first:
1. Is your odometer located in the speedometer or the central tunnel gauge cluster?
2. When the instrument lights flicker do the astray lamps also flicker?
3. Are all other gauges/lights absolutely unaffected when the instrument lights flicker?
It's probably something in the instrument light dimmer switch (or the PCB/traces associated with the dimmer switch) if the answer to #2 is "no" (since they are supplied by the same +12V source when "on"), but I want to know #1 and #3 before looking further. |
F-J'87EuroTR (Ferrarijoe)
Member
Username: Ferrarijoe
Post Number: 286
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2002 - 9:48 am: | |
James,
When you removed the two nuts holding the instrument cluster to the dash, this allows you to unplug the wiring harness and remove the cluster altogether.
As Arnaldo stated about the pair of legs at each connection, check to see if some of the legs on the connecter have spread out too much. If so, with a small jewelers type flat-tip screwdriver, push each leg gently towards the middle for a better contact when you re-plug the connecter. Also, dab some connecter enhancer like Stabilant 22 on both sides of the connection (NAPA part# CE-1 about $60 for 15ml). This will enhance the connection and helps as a corrosion preventer also.
Good luck, Joe
|
Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member
Username: Caribe
Post Number: 442
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2002 - 12:29 am: | |
Based on my experience with my 1990 TR, I would say that if there is a problem in the Fuse Box area, is almost always due to the connectors failing and not the fuse panel itself. The connectors have a pair of legs for each connection that press against the fuse box terminal to make a connection. With time, heat, metal fatigue, etc. these legs tend to open up making for a poor connection. In some cases it is really obvious that this is happening due to burn marks on the connector plastic. However, for many others, there is just not enough amperage running through that connection to cause the arcing that burns up the plastic. In fact, I recently had a lot of electrical issues including the random blow up of the fuse that controlled the instrument panel illumination. Initially I started bypassing the connectors by placing a jumper directly from the fuse box terminal to the corresponding output wire. This works fine for a few connections, but when you have a lot to deal with, like I did, this approach is too tedious an disruptive to the system. My solution, I placed a modified female quick connector around the fuse box terminal. This basically increased the length and thickness of the fuse box terminal, hence creating a better contact area for the failing connectors.
I hope this helps. |
JAMES BENNER (Palmetto_tr)
New member
Username: Palmetto_tr
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Friday, November 08, 2002 - 10:06 pm: | |
MY DASH LIGHTS KEEP GOING OUT. I HAVE REPLACED THE FUSE PANEL AND THE STERRING COLUMN CONTROLLS, BUT THEY STILL FLICKER.ANY SUGGESTIONS |