| Author |
Message |
Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member
Username: Caribe
Post Number: 455
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 13, 2002 - 8:37 am: | |
Stephen, glad to hear of the progress. Perhaps one bank is running richer than the other, hence able to idle better than after the coil swap. Now, there are two parts to the coils, a little module on top and the coil itself. As I mentioned before, I don't know how to test them separately, but the little module on top (if the problem) is much cheaper to replace than the entire assembly. You might want to take the coil to a mechanic to have it tested. Specially before sinking $300 plus dollars into a new one. |
Brian stewart (Eurocardoc)
Member
Username: Eurocardoc
Post Number: 398
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 13, 2002 - 5:52 am: | |
There are two different # coils used, dependent upon year, I have both in stock. About $350.00 each. |
Stanley DiGuiseppi (Standig)
Junior Member
Username: Standig
Post Number: 82
Registered: 5-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 10:02 pm: | |
If you lost ignition its possible you now have fuel fouled plugs that maybe why it idles ruff with swapped coils...
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Stephen Simpson (Steph)
New member
Username: Steph
Post Number: 23
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 9:09 pm: | |
And what might the approx. cost of a coil assy. be |
Stephen Simpson (Steph)
New member
Username: Steph
Post Number: 22
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 8:59 pm: | |
Caribe;
found the problem i seem to have droped a coil on the left bank...I swaped sides and the problem followed though earlier the car Idled fine on the right bank but now it seems to run rough after swaping hopefully there is nothing major...any more suggestions? |
JB CVT (Palmetto_tr)
New member
Username: Palmetto_tr
Post Number: 5
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 8:56 pm: | |
i had a similar problem whin only one bank working. and it had no power and would die on
idle. the first time it was
a bad fuse connection to the passenger bank. easy to fix
the second time i fried the cable to the coil which took out the pass bank little mor involved. |
Jeff Green (Carguy)
New member
Username: Carguy
Post Number: 19
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 8:48 pm: | |
You know what...today my TR just seemed to lose power too. Still idles fine, and runs smooth when driving around easy, but floor it and...well...it takes it's sweet time to accelerate. And I do smell fuel as you guys said I would. I just haven't had time to post my problem. And when I log on to do so, what do you know someone else has already posted the same problem! This site is invaluable. |
Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member
Username: Caribe
Post Number: 454
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 8:26 pm: | |
If there is a strong smell of fuel, one of your banks is definitely not firing. It is surprising how well (except for the power loss) the TR engine runs with only one bank active. Anyway, I would start by unpluging the ignition coil wire to each of the banks to see if power is been delivered to that bank.
If no power to one bank, swap the two ingnition coils to see if the problem changes to the other bank. If it does, you found your problem. The ignition coil needs to be replaced. There is a little module on top that might be replaced separately from the coil, but I do not know how to test them separately besides disassembling the whole thing and swapping to the other coil. Perform a search to see if somebody already did it. I seem to remember somebody doing it.
If the coils check ok (same bank with no power after the swap) then your problem is either the Ignition module ECU ($$$), or a poor connection on the Fuse Box. I know you mentioned all connections seemed ok, but trust me, you want to really be sure of it because the Ignition ECU, new, is about $1800.00 at the very least. I can remember what the exact pin numbers are for the connections that supply power to the ignition coils off hand. My WSM is at home, but I seem to remember that for the passenger side bank it is the number six (6) connection when counting from driver side to passenger side on the bottom driver side connector at the Fuse panel. I placed a small screwdriver from the outside while the connector is in place, and immediately the engine came alive. I left the screwdriver in place, closed the hood, went for a test drive and the problem was found. |
Brian stewart (Eurocardoc)
Member
Username: Eurocardoc
Post Number: 397
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 8:18 pm: | |
The control relay inside the black box in right rear fender for the injection ecu's. (the relay with the fuse ontop).
If the car has sat for some time, replace the NTC water temp sensor and the oil temp sensor, both will give false readings and screw up the fuel injection. The fuse box connections should be checked, but if the thing smells of fuel, both pumps are likely working.
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Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member
Username: Caribe
Post Number: 453
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 8:11 pm: | |
If you mean by Left the driver side ECU, then you disconnected the Ignition module. It supplies the timing and signals the Ignition coils to fire up the spark plugs. Can't run with it disconnected.
The passenger side ECUs control the fuel mixture and supply to the engine. I would not disconnect any of them while the engine is running. If you had a problem with one of them, normally you would end up swapping one for the other (while the engine is off) to see if conditions change. If it doesn't, they are fine.
You do the same thing to test the ignition coils and the little module on top of them. Swap and test for changes. I would strongly suggest that you start looking at your problem from the Fuse box panel first, most TR problems seem to hover around issues with the Fuse box connectors. In my car, almost any issue so far have been one of these connections going bad. The funny thing is that problems, most of the time, manifest themselves in ways that appear not related to the fuse panel.
If you want to know if one bank is firing or not, simply unplug a spark plug terminal and check for engine changes. If the engine keeps running as before that bank is not getting power from the ignition coil. Check more than one plug to make sure is just not that plug that is affected. To save time, I disconnect the output of one of the Ignition coils (wire running from the coil to the distributor) to check for power to that bank. |
Stephen Simpson (Steph)
New member
Username: Steph
Post Number: 21
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 8:05 pm: | |
I checked all of the wires on the fuse panel they seem to be fine...no difference in preformance.(just took it around the block still very lopey)though I beleive there is a strong oder of fuel.. also I jumped the fuel pumps both seem to be working |
Stephen Simpson (Steph)
New member
Username: Steph
Post Number: 20
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 7:19 pm: | |
just checked the ecu's while looking at them from the rt. side looking down at the forward (or right)one when disconnected the engine runs fine after reconnecting I disconnected the aft (left) engine dies what could this mean? |
Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member
Username: Caribe
Post Number: 451
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 7:10 pm: | |
My TR had a similar problem in two different occasions. The first one was a poor connection at the Fuse box for the Fuel pumps. The second time, a poor connection at the Fuse box for the wire supplying power to the passenger side distributor. All three of these connections are on the driver side bottom connector at the Fuse box. Problems with the fuel pump connections are easy to distinguish because they normally tend to burn the plastic of the connector around them. A good thing to do to check for poor connections is to look into these connectors while the engine is running (the darker the better), to check for current arcing from the Fuse box terminal to the connector. Also you could place a small screwdriver through the back of the connector to create a better connection at the Fuse box terminal to see if the problem goes away. |
Stanley DiGuiseppi (Standig)
Junior Member
Username: Standig
Post Number: 81
Registered: 5-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 6:43 pm: | |
If one side of the motor stops working the car will still run smooth but not have much power.
Disconnect one ecu at a time and see if the car will run on one side and not the other. I believe they are on the top right leaning into the motor. I had a 87 TR that the wire to the rt fuel pump burnt at the fuse block and cause no fuel on the right side. Yours may no be the same problem but I was at least able to determine which side of the motor to start with. Mine however did not miss fire or run rough...at idle you didn't even know there was a problem until you accelerated...weak power
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Stephen Simpson (Steph)
New member
Username: Steph
Post Number: 19
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 6:10 pm: | |
89, 20,000. miles
about a week ago the car was fine then it started to backfire while driving (I believe I corrected the backfiring due to one spark plug extension was cracked) the car seems to be fine otherwise except no power
one other note we just got the car running after a number of years of it being dormet,also I took off and replaced both dis.caps |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 3501
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 5:35 pm: | |
Oh boy, That could be fuel, electrical, who knows. This will be a tough one unless one of the TR guys have experienced the same thing. Also Stephen you might want to give more info. on how it acts what you have is very vaque. |
JRV (Jrvall)
Junior Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 67
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 5:32 pm: | |
Could be plugged up cats...or about a dozen or more other things.
What yr is it and how many miles? |
Stephen Simpson (Steph)
New member
Username: Steph
Post Number: 18
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 5:26 pm: | |
here we go again, for some reason my testarossa has no power. at idle when you give it the gas the most she will pull (rpm wise) is 4500 and that is after boosting it a couple of times. when driving,after it warms up, the car feels to be very lopy. Any suggestions? |