| Author | Message | ||
| Neil Green (Neilg)
|
I am in the process of replacing my front wheel bearings (77 308GTB), and want to replace the front brake hoses at the same time. However, I don't see where there is enough accessibility to remove the upper end of the brake hose from the bracket holding it to the chassis for support (24 mm nut). Is there a trick to performing this removal, or does it indeed require removal of the entire front wheel's brake line to replace the hoses? Thanks in advance. | ||
| charles claussen (Atlantaman)
|
i have gone back to this old string to renew it and bring it to the top--there are a lot of recent postings about 308 brakes and i thought this would be useful. | ||
| charles claussen (Atlantaman)
|
I am having a friend bring over a 390mm wheel so I can check it out. I want to see if I need to modify the brake package any to work with that size wheel. 14" wheels , I think are out at this time, but I will continue to work on it. I have been working on a kit price for my brake system (16"wheels) and think it will be around 3000.00 for all 4 wheels. | ||
| Larry (Larry)
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let's see; i'm interested! | ||
| charles claussen (Atlantaman)
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c:  rotors002.jpg | ||
| charles claussen (Atlantaman)
|
the wheels that I have are the 16" campagnolo's, had to sell my 14" spare since it would not fit over the rotor. There is a chance that I could design one using smaller rotors---will have to review my CAD drawings to study the bolt patterns. Just by going to new calipers the brake force should increase but 20% or so. as far as using a hydraulic handbrake, it is fine for a short time but even the best hydraulic pistons leak a tiny ammount and if I were to leave the car on a hill for several days, the brakes could fail.... | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
Charles, the Rally cars use hydraulic hand brakes (basically the handle with a master cylinder attached to it). Couldn't you just run a line from that and tap into the rear brake circuit? The original, mechanical parking brake used an arm acting on the caliper piston (similar idea, using the one caliper for both systems). | ||
| Low Kai Chin (Speeddemon)
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charles : what is the size of your rims, 14"/390mm/16" ? If your conversion fits a 390mm rim or smaller, yes i will be keen if you can build more. Thanks. | ||
| charles claussen (Atlantaman)
|
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| charles claussen (Atlantaman)
|
Actually I put my old engineering skill to work and designed the system myself. I ordered the new rotors(directional curved vented and slotted). Then I machined the "rotor hats ". A local Atlanta company does billet aluminum racing calipers so I picked up a set and designed the mounting brackets. Oh--one last thing--when you do something like this you loose the parking brake, currently I am in the process of designing brackets to add a mechanical secondary calpier to both rears. Have a multitude of pics if anyone wants to see them. I have not planned on making a kit to do this change but if enought interest is expressed I will pull out my notes and try to derive some kit pricing. | ||
| Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
|
Jeff, I stand corrected. Thanks for getting back with a response on that. I was confusing that with one of my other cars. | ||
| Jeff K (Jbk)
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Thanks guys, I corresponded by email with Bill Badurski (the FCA tech chairman) and he said you do have to pull the metal lines to get the calipers off. My guess is that since Ferrari says to change the fluid yearly, they figured you might as well break the connection. Charles, where did you get the larger rotors and calipers? Did they bolt in or did you need to make other mods? Sounds like a great idea! | ||
| Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
|
Jeff, if Charles is correct my apologies but I thought I was able to remove it without disconnecting the lines. It's been a couple of years since. Or maybe I'm confused with another one of my cars. It doesn't make sense why you should have to do that. | ||
| charles claussen (Atlantaman)
|
I do not think you can remove the caliper without disconnecting the metal line, To make life easier,I went inboard to the 2nd fitting on the rubber hose and removed it. I then installed steel braided hose all the way out to the caliper from that point.(about 18").You will need to buy some 1/8" npt to 1.0 adapters and have them threaded (on the outside of the 1.0 side) 16mmx1.5. Then you will be able to reuse the original mounting bracket and nut. Next you need to install a -3 fitting on the caliper and use good quality -3 hose. Also while I was at it I installed 12.25" rotors on my 308 and added new 4 piston calipers---now I can stop! Charles | ||
| Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
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Jeff, I removed mine some time ago. It does look strange but if I remember correctly there is a clip there on that bracket you remove so you can move the caliper around. Check a little closer but do not open the line. | ||
| Jeff K (Jbk)
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Anyone have any advice on how to pull the brake rotors on an early 308GTB? I was going to get them turned and can't seem to figure out how to remove the calipers without disconnecting the lines. On most cars I've ever worked on, the calipers can be moved aside without breaking the connections. But Enzo doesn't seem to have made it that easy. On my 77 there is a metal line from the caliper to a bracket attached to the wheel hub at the upper ball joint. The flex hose hooks in at this point. From what I can see, even if I unbolt the caliper, I can't remove it without disconnecting or bending the metal line. Am I missing something, or do I really have to disconnect the brake lines to get the rotors out? If you do have to disconnect the lines, do you have to drain the whole braking system? |