| Author | Message | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
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Just used solvents to cut through the grime, soft stainless brushes to clean the rough cast surface. The valve covers, timing belt covers, waterpump housing and top cooling branch manifold were painted. The rest of the engine is just cleaned, bare aluminum. On your turbo upgrade, you could use the 288 GTO liners, pistons and crank (80 X 71 mm). These items would give you the extra capacity, plus be stout enough to handle the increase in power. But because the GTO engine was dry-sumped, it had a circuit to pipe oil to sprayers that shot oil to the under side of the pistons to aid in cooling. Something to consider/look into. | ||
| Bernard Rowe (Gtsturbo)
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Peter Great looking engine well done! Did you vapour blast the aluminium castings, or just a realy good scrub with degreaser? I'm looking to pull the engine of my car over this winter to tidy the engine bay & "check over" the motor. There's nothing wrong that I know of but being a 2 litre turbo car, I've got an idea to increase the capacity to 3 litres as the basic architecture of the engine is the same as the 8 valve atmo' motor. It's just been stroked & linered down to the smaller capacity. I'm just starting to get the info' as to whats possible. Otherwise I may just up the boost a little! But that seems like the easy option! | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
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It does look nice, doesn't it? I've been working on it, then step back and look in amazement at the difference of what it looked like before. Those valve covers used to be painted wrinkle black, but it was done poorly and was flaking off. With all of the built up grime from years of neglect, it looked like s--t, I was embarrassed to open the engine lid and show people. After this rebuild, you'll be able to eat off this engine.  | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
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Yeah Peter, you better enter some concourse and stuff when you're done. | ||
| Mitchel DeFrancis (4re308)
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Yes, I'm going to have to get replacement clamps (I'm going to try and find the Tridons) and some more hose. I think it will be a large pain in the butt to take the intake, so i won't do that. Dang Peter, that is one pretty engine bay. Someday mine will look as nice! It looks great! | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
Mitchel, on my carbureted 308, this pipe is quite visible. It is the return line from the radiator. Here it is:  I've been replacing all of those original, garbage hose clamps with Tridon ones. They're stainless steel and have 5/16" hex head in addition to a screwdriver slot. This gives you a choice to use a 1/4" drive socket or a wrench to tighten the clamp.  Something to consider to before getting the pump back on. The Goodyear hose I'm using is thick and is tight going on. As seen in the first photo, there is a hose junction at the forward cylinder head. With this one off for me, I was able to push that pipe forward into the pump housing (easy for me to say as my engine is still out J. But I'm sure its still managable from in the car). | ||
| Mitchel DeFrancis (4re308)
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Hey Heath, thats a good idea. We tried to trace where the lower hose goes and it seemed to go in the middle of the engine, directly below the intake runners. If I can find where it goes, than we can just do it that way. I'm sure it would be a lot easier. Its a tight fit in there!! | ||
| HEATH VAUGHN (Heath)
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NOT KNOWING EXACTLY WHERE AND WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT BUT TAKE OFF THAT HOSE FROM ITS OTHER END PUT IT ON YOUR PUMP FIRST THEN THREAD THE HOSE BACK TO WHERE IT GOES IF THAT CONNECTION IS EASIER TO GET TO | ||
| Mitchel DeFrancis (4re308)
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OK, I got the water pump screwed onto the engine block on my 84 308 QV. There are two stubby hoses right underneath the red intake plenum and runners on the back of the pump. The top hose clamp was tightened easily. HOW the heck do I tighten, or even access the lower hose clamp to tighten it? I'm going to try and find a REALLY small screwdriver to get to the clamp....but I need a screwdriver that I can get some torque to, and my fingers can only do so much. Ideas? |